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Sage Advice
Questionable wit & wisdom from the bottom of the bottle

Tasting Notes (7.1.22)

7/14/2022

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​Surrau Vermentino di Gallura "Limizzani" 2020 ($16.99)
Sardinia, Italy

From the producer:
"Gallura, a land of granite rocks and mistral winds on the northern end of the island of Sardinia, is home to some of the finest Vermentino made.  Limizzani is the name of a mystical site from the ancient Mediterranean civilizations that inhabited the region thousands of years ago.  From grapes sourced across all the estate vineyards, Limizzani is a fresh and pure Vermentino that embodies the essence of Gallura." 

From Wine Enthusiast Magazine:
"This savory, enticing white will transport you to the seaside thanks to aromas that recall Mediterranean brush, white spring wildflowers, a sea breeze and a warm, sandy beach. On the delicious palate, tangy acidity accompanies ripe white peach, lemon drop candy and saline."

L'Ecole Chenin Blanc 2019 ($19.99)
Yakima Valley, Washington

From the producer:
"L’Ecole N° 41 has produced this old vine, crisp and aromatic Vouvray-style Chenin Blanc since 1987.

Tasting Notes
This complex Chenin Blanc shows expressive citrus and stone fruit aromatics, with blood orange, Meyer lemon and white peach notes, offset by crisp pear and quince aromas. In the mouth, tropical flavors of gooseberry, kiwi, guava, and starfruit permeate through a vibrant finish."

Elizabeth Rose Pinot Noir 2020 ($24.99)
Napa Valley, California

From the producer:
"VINEYARD NOTES
Elizabeth Rose Pinot Noir is planted in our largest vineyard, Block House.
This 292-acre vineyard is positioned on the valley floor and experiences
a cooling effect from the San Pablo Bay breeze that is advantageous to the
growth and development of Pinot Noir. This wine is a blend of the Dijon and
Wente clones. Nearly 20% of Block House is dedicated to the production
of Pinot Noir.

WINEMAKER NOTES
A beautiful translucent ruby color, with lovely aromas of ripe cherry,
vanilla and rose petal along with rich earthy undertones. Beautifully
balanced on the palate with layers of red fruit; cherry, raspberry and
strawberry on the front and mid-palate then rounded out with savory
notes of forest floor, white truffle and spiced tea. Medium bodied
with a silky, smooth mouthfeel and nice acidity leads to a long round
finish making it the perfect pairing with your next meal or to simply
sip and enjoy!" ​

Leopold Brothers Summer Gin ($33.99)
Colorado

From the Producer:
"Inspired by the warm and lively feel of summertime, Todd Leopold conceived this citrus-forward and bright gin to be enjoyed throughout the season.

This gin draws on the warm climates from which its exceptional ingredients are harvested by hand: Spanish Blood Oranges for a rich sweetness, French Immortal Flowers and Juniper Berries for a cool and clean flavor, and Australian Lemon Myrtle for a fresh, citrus finish. Each ingredient is distilled individually to honor its distinctive flavors.

Released in small quantities during the summer, Leopold's Summer Gin complements its seasonal namesake in spirited form."

Calle 23 Tequila Criollo ($115.99)
Mexico

From thewhiskyexhange.com:
"A limited-edition Tequila from the pioneering Sophie Decobecq (biochemist and founder of Calle 23), which celebrates the birth of her son Abel. It is made solely from a type of blue agave known as criollos, which is smaller than the plants traditionally used and has a distinctive aroma. This innovative and unique spirit, of which only very small quantities are available, is a must-try for anyone who loves Tequila.

Calle 23 Criollo is presented in a hand-blown bottle and features a label rich in Mexican imagery. On the top left Mayahuel, the goddess of agave, is wearing a necklace bearing the letter A for Sophie's son Abel."

From me:
Grassy, bright, exquisite.

El Buho Mezcal Espadin 375ml ($21.99)
Mexico

From the producer:
​"While learning to cook traditional farm-to-table cuisine in 2007, NY-based Michelin star chef and mezcal connoisseur TJ Steele found the source provider for an excellent Espadin mezcal at the Don Isaac Distillery, owned and operated by the 5th generation Jimenez Mendez family.

The Jimenez Mendez family has made mezcal in copper pot stills for five generations and are currently teaching the sixth. Patriarch Octavio Jimenez Monterroza presides over each batch made by his children Jose Isaac, Beatriz and Octavio as the family works as a collective unit.

The flagship mezcal of El Buho’s line, the espadin has a light roast and smoke to its nose. Medium in body with pronounced notes of caramel, red apple and coffee, this espadin is perfect for cocktails or enjoyed on its own."
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (6.17.2022)

6/29/2022

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Produttori di Manduria AKA Rose ($14.99)
Salento, Italy
From the producer:
100% Primitivo
"Bouquet: clear and attractive nose, full of fresh cherries, pomegranate, red apple, small wild strawberry and raspberry, enriched by pleasant mineral whiffs.
Taste: juicy and fresh on the palate, well structured, with crunchy cherry fruits hints, salty. It shows a lot of juicy acidity in the background, long aftertaste.
Suggested pairings: seafood risotto, dumplings with leek and prawn, grilled salmon with parsley sauce."
From me:
I encountered this wine at a trade tasting, where the representative of the company claimed that no one had much luck selling this rose because of its dark hue. I tasted it--lush, bright, strawberry-forward, with a hint of salinity to keep the fruit in check. I said, "I can sell this wine." It's a fine example of a more robust style, and it's lovely as is, but you could make a fabulous sangria with it, too.

Brick & Mortar Anderson Valley Chardonnay ($22.99)

California
From the producer:
"2021 Anderson Valley Chardonnay is aromatic in the glass, combining fresh citrus and floral elements. The palate is framed by racy acidity, with a richness of fruit and hints of oak toasted hazelnut and hard spice. Ripe melon, quince and yellow apple flavors are coupled with mandarin zest, juniper and thyme. The wine is textured and elegant exuding the warm sunny growing days and cool temperatures of Anderson Valley. Beautiful in its youth, this Chardonnay will age gracefully and improve over the next 5+ years."
From me:
This is a good example of a riper style of Chard from the Anderson Valley. The palate is very round, but there's just enough acidity to keep it from overtaking the other aspects of the wine. I would call this wine "medium-oaked," as you can clearly discern the presence of the wood, but it's well integrated. 

Thomas Labille Chablis ($25.99)

Burgundy, France
From the producer:
"Vinification: Controlled alcoholic fermentation, aging on lees in temperature-controlled vats and in oak barrels for 15-18 months, fining and filtration.
Tasting notes: Pale color with brilliant reflections, lively nose of fruity and mineral notes. Powerful, supple and full on the palate with nice acidity on the finish.
Culinary accompaniment: This wine can accompany a whole meal. It is just as good with salad, fish, poultry or white meat as it is with goat cheese."
From me:
If you're of a certain age, "Chablis" evokes the image of a jug of cheap Californian wine. This is not that. Chablis is a region of Burgundy in France, within which some of the leanest, most elegant Chardonnay can be found. This particular wine is an excellent entry-level Chablis that gives you a good idea of the style, and that won't break the bank.

Orr Wines Columbia Gorge Chardonnay ($34.99)
Washington
From the producer:
"Field blended in the cool Columbia Gorge vineyard where it was grown, this bright, minerally Chardonnay was naturally fermented in old French oak barrels and bottled unfiltered. 88 cases produced."
From me:
Erica Orr makes beautiful wine in Washington state. Of the three she produces, the Chardonnay is my favorite because it's stylistically French and unexpectedly savory. I think it's particularly interesting to taste with the Labille Chablis, which is actually Burgundian. If you are wary of Chardonnay, I ask that you try this one.

Zulal Areni ($19.99)
Armenia
From the producer:
"Zulal wines was founded by Aimee Keushguerian in 2017, introducing Zulal Areni Reserve 2015 and Zulal Voskehat 2017. The main grape varieties Areni and Voskehat are sourced from approximately 40 grape-growers in the villages of Aghavnadzor and Rind as well as the Arpa Valley in the Vayots Dzor region.
In addition to these, Zulal is also engaged in working with lesser known grape varieties, such as Koghbeni from Tavush, Nazeli and Movuz and Tozot and Karmir Kot from Vayots Dzor, Sireni from Artsakh, Jrjruk from Tavush and Kakhet from Artashat. These small lots of wine offer an exciting opportunity to explore rare indigenous grape varieties.
Zulal currently produces approximately 10,000 cases of wine on an annual basis.
Areni is Armenia’s leading red grape variety, capable of making energetic wines full of bright fruity flavors. Zulal, meaning ‘pure’ in Armenian, was created to express the purest characteristics of Armenia’s indigenous grape varieties grown in volcanic soils at high elevation. The 2018 Areni is a classic expression of the ancient Areni variety.
The 2018 Areni is an aromatic wine with notes of red cherries, plums and notes of pepper. On the palate it’s medium-bodied, with refreshing acidity and concentrated flavors of berries and spices."
From me:
I'm a little obsessed with wines from Eastern Europe, and this was one of the first that I tasted. I often sell it to Pinot Noir drinkers, as it has a similar flavor profile and body. It's a great introduction to eastern wines, and I love that the company is focusing on using indigenous grapes.

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Last Week's Tasting Notes (6.10.22)

6/17/2022

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​Vignoble Couillaud Rosé 2020 ($12.99)
Loire Valley, France

This light and fruity 100% Gamay rosé shows how an extra year in the bottle really softens and rounds out the wine. It's great on its own or paired with lighter dishes such as salads or charcuterie.

Bodega DiamAndes Rosado 2021 ($13.99)
Uco Valley, Argentina

You don't see many 100% Malbec rosés in the market, so this is a novel wine. It has strawberry and mild citrus notes and quite a bit of structure on the palate; this is a rosé to pair with food, rather than to be enjoyed merely as an aperitif. It has enough character to stand up to BBQ, red meats, or fattier vegetarian dishes. Vegan-friendly wine.

Chateau Sainte-Marie Bordeaux Blanc 2020 ($15.99)
Bordeaux, France

This white wine is a typical Bordeaux blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, the latter of which softens the acidity and mellows the wine, as does stirring of the lees. White flowers and pink grapefruit come through on the palate, which is round and satisfying. Lovely on its own or paired with meaty fish, pork, or Caesar salad. Vegan-friendly wine.


Neleman Organic Vineyards "Nucli Blanc" & "Nucli Rainbow" 2020 ($16.99)
Valencia, Spain

These whites are both unusual and delicious. The Blanc is a blend of 70% Macabeo and 30% Sauvignon Blanc. It's light and fresh with a lemon and herbaceous quality balanced out with subtle salinity. Great alone or with salads, fish, or chicken.

The Rainbow is 60% Verdil and 40% Viognier. It has a little more body than the Blanc and a round mouthfeel. On the palate the citrus undertone gives way to stoniness and a hint of smoke. Just a brilliantly bonkers wine!

Both are vegan-friendly.


Chateau Ramafort Cru Bourgeois Médoc 2016 ($27.99)
Bordeaux, France

This is a left bank wine that's 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot. I don't carry a lot of Bordeaux, and even when the price increased last year, I kept this one. It has all of the robust fruit you would expect with a very satisfying earthiness to keep it balanced. I absolutely love this wine, and 2016 is an excellent vintage.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (3.6.20)

3/12/2020

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​Cuma Torrontés ($13.99)
Calchaquí Valley, Argentina
From the producer:
"Sourced entirely from estate vineyards high in Argentina’s northwest Andes. This extreme elevation lends itself perfectly to organic viticulture. Hot days, cool nights, lack of rainfall and a dry shallow soil allow for minimal human interference to the natural growth cycle of the vines.

Vinification: All organic practices are carried over from vineyard to winery where the wines are carefully handled throughout the entire vinification process. Cuma is produced to be drunk young, therefore little oak is used in the winery; instead the wines are aged at cool temperatures in stainless steel tanks in an effort to showcase their natural complexity and deep fruit flavors.

The Cuma Torrontés shows a bright green/yellow color, the wine has aromas of rose petals and hints of jasmine and orange skin. On the palate, the wine exhibits fresh and floral fruit with a refreshing, bracing acidity. The palate flavors include fresh peaches and a floral taste that is typical with this grape."

From me:
Torrontés is a wine that flies below most people's radar. When we think of Argentina, Malbec is the grape that comes to mine. Torrontés is the most widely planted white grape there, though, and the wines made from it are aromatic and most appealing when enjoyed young. Cuma comes from some of the highest elevations, and as such, the acidity keeps the fruit in check. This wine shows both fruit and floral notes.

Bodegas La Caña Albariño ($16.99)
Rías Baixas, Spain
From the producer:
"Jorge Ordóñez is the United States’ most important pioneer for the Albariño grape and D.O. Rias Baixas, as he was the first person to introduce this grape and region to the U.S. in 1991. Told he would never sell more than 100 cases of Albariño in New York City, he persevered, and now owns a winery in the Valley of Salnés, the best appellation of D.O. Rias Baixas.

Named for the straw-like canas (reeds or canes) that line the shores of the Atlantic inlets that carve into the granite coast of Galicia, the winery’s philosophy is to produce a traditional, authentic, and serious Albariño, in the style of the artisan wines that Ordóñez discovered when he first arrived in the appellation in 1991.

When Jorge first travelled to Rías Baixas, the D.O. did not officially exist. What he found was a rich culture of family viticulture and winemaking. Most families had small plots of Albariño planted on pergolas built with posts taken from the mother rock – granite. Most of this Albariño was fermented and aged on the lees in large chestnut foudres.

Viticulture:
Traditional dry farmed viticulture. Practicing organic pergola trained vines, cultivated completely by hand.

Hand-harvested and stored in small baskets. The grapes are sorted at the winery and pressed after a 12-hour cold soak, which helps prevent oxidation of the must and allows us to reduce the amount of SO2 used in winemaking. Destemmed and whole cluster pressing in a pneumatic press. Fermented 35% in 500L & 600L puncheons and demi-muids (second use through 12 vintages old), 65% in stainless steel. Sur lie ageing for eight months with bi-weekly battonage in both barrel and tank. The resulting profile of the wine is dominated by a saline, maritime, seaweedy quality that is balanced by rich flavors of ripe citrus. The saltiness is the result of the vineyards’ proximity to the ocean.

La Caña is a wine that Jorge Ordóñez and his winemaking team craft to demonstrate the potential that Albariño shows as a high quality, serious varietal. As Jorge was the first person to export this variety, he has a tremendous passion and appreciation for Albariño, and he decries the use of Albariño to make simplistic, mass-produced, and commerical wines.. La Caña demonstrates the complexity, intensity, and longevity Albariño can achieve when sourced from old vineyards and using serious winemaking practices."

From me:
If you haven't tried Albariño, this is the one to have first, as it's the most traditional in style. The salinity mentioned above is, in my experience, not so pronounced, but it gives a gentle balance to the fruit that comes through on the palate. This is an elegant, mellow wine that is a great alternative to unoaked Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (2.27.20)

3/5/2020

1 Comment

 
​Keush "Origins" Brut Sparkling ($23.99)
Khachik, Armenia
From the producer:
"Grapes sourced from Vayots Dzor province in Armenia. The vineyards are un-grafted, 60- 100 years old. Located between 1500- 1800m above sea level.

These are some of the highest elevation vineyards in the northern hemisphere, and at 1800 m, the highest elevation vineyards in the world that produce méthode traditionnelle.

Origins represents the perfect storm of limestone soil and volcanic rock growing idyllic crisp white grapes, ripened by sunlight from high elevation vineyards. A product born from a 6,000 – year- old viticulture history, Origins embodies the bold Armenian soul and its wine loving spirit.

Varieties
Voskehat 60% and Khatouni 40%

Ageing
Minimum 22 months on the lees

Voskehat, meaning ‘queen- berry’ thrives in high-altitude, rocky soils. It is known for its vine longevity, easily living up to 100 years. Voskehat is terroir-driven and a native to the Armenian land. It is known to produce elegance and acidity in wines. 

Khatouni, is a rare variety that grows well in the Vayots Dzor of Armenia. This variety is highly productive in the region’s terroir and is used to craft wines with a crisp, bright finish."

From me:
I have been eager to bring an Armenian wine into the shop, as that area of the world is where grapes were first cultivated to make wine. I tried this sparkler last week, and absolutely fell for it. It drinks super dry, but has an appealing mouthfeel and a beautiful crispness. I can't wait for you to try it!

Scarbolo "Cabernet" ($19.99)
Friuli, Italy
From the producer:
"Gino, a hardworking member of a tenant-farming family, was also responsible for the production of the wine of the estate on which the Scarbolo family lived. Over the seasons he learnt all about the strict rules of nature and gained full understanding of the magic behind winemaking.
Great enthusiasm and passion, in the fifties, Gino moved to Lauzacco with his family, where he had purchased his own fields and had decided to grow grapes among other crops. Indeed, he started producing wines which he sold locally in bulk, and started setting the foundations of the company as we know it today.

In 1982, Valter, who had grown up learning the dedication and passion for winegrowing from his dad, decided to study viticulture and oenology to continue the family business with a further qualitative leap: he planted his first vineyard inspired by the French school, which was characterized by narrow plant density and low yields, and began selling the wine in bottles rather than in bulk. Vintage after vintage, the vineyards grew in number and the Scarbolo brand took up the current profile. The traces of the tractor wheels left behind since 60 years ago, are continued by Valter and Maria Grazia together with Lara and Mattia, who have injected fresh energy and creativity into the family enterprise leading it to a new chapter.

'Logic viticulture,' a philosophy Valter Scarbolo has always followed in his vineyard management. Balance is the key element for the wellbeing of any living thing, including the vines, and any extreme situation undermines their health. This idea lies at the core of 'logic viticulture' which translates into choosing vineyard managing procedures that diminish intervening in the life of the vine. However, as the weather is not always the friendliest of allies, protecting the grapes, especially in the crucial moments of their development, is a logical choice.

It is logical to respect the environment. It is logical to be aware of our responsibilities today and the legacy we leave behind tomorrow. It is logical to preserve the quality of the grapes and make wine that expresses the territory it comes from.

The Cabernet variety was introduced into Friuli Venezia Giulia several decades ago and found a comfortable new home. It adapted very well, probably because it found itself on the same latitude of its original French region, but of course, as every land is different Cabernet from our region is unique in its own way.

Cabernet Franc 70%, Cabernet Sauvignon 30%

Aged in oak barrels for 10 months, then bottle aged for an additional four
months before release.

Aroma
Intense with notes of black pepper and raspberries.

Taste
Robust, full bodied with rich, jammy tannins. A perfect wine to pair with roasts, fatty meat, aged cheeses and savory pasta dishes."

From me:
This is the third wine I carry from Scarbolo, and that should tell you how highly I regard their products. I tasted this the other day, and was smitten. It drinks somewhere between a light Bordeaux and a Chinon, with a distinct black pepper balance to the raspberry tones. This is a delicious and unexpected wine from the north of Italy.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (1.31.20)

2/13/2020

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​Saracina Vineyards Malbec ($29.99)
Mendocino County, California
From the producer:

"Vineyards and Harvest Planted in 1999 and farmed organically from the outset, Skid Row Vineyard is the westernmost block on the Saracina Ranch, marked by black clay and gravelly soils at the base of the foothills. The plant material is the original Bordeaux clone 4. It is significant not for what it produces, but for what it doesn’t. It is the lowest yielding commercial Malbec clone available, and on our property typical yields are one and a half tons per acre. It produces concentrated fruit without the need to pick at ultra-high sugars.

The vineyard was named “Skid Row” for the tracks carved into the surrounding hillsides in the late 19th and early 20th centuries by donkeys dragging logs down to the vineyard site, where they were collected to fire the furnaces for hop barns in the course of making beer.

The harvest of 2016 was a winemaker’s dream, following replenishing, drought-ending rains and a long and even growing season.

Winemaking and Cooperage:
The grapes were harvested by hand, destemmed and gently fed into the fermenter with 50% whole berries. Native yeast fermentation began in earnest eight days later and was managed with two aerative pumpovers per day until dryness. The wine was drained directly into Taransaud barrels, 15% of which were new. Native malolactic fermentation was complete by early January. The wine rested on light lees for 19 months and was bottled on May 23, 2018.

Winemaker Alex MacGregor’s Comments:
ltra-deep garnet in color, this lovely California rendition of Malbec reveals black plum and blueberry fruits with a cedar note in the background. The palate is polished, with round tannins and great depth of flavor. Pair this wine year-round with a grilled peppery soy balsamic marinated steak and grilled portabella mushrooms."
​
From me:
This wine is outstanding. Most people think of Argentina when they think of Malbec, though the grape is originally French. Mendocino is a slightly cooler climate than its more famous California counterparts, but the low yield of this clone produces a rich flavor without high alcohol. This comes in at 13.5%, but the palate is bold and satisfying. I highly recommend this for people who love Malbecs and Cabs.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (12.28.19)

1/10/2020

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​Les Vignobles de Jacques Blanquette de Limoux ($15.99)
Limoux, France
From the producer:
"Blanquette de Limoux was created in 1531 in the cellars of the Benedictine Saint Hilaire Abbey when a monk discovered that the wine that he had bottled and carefully corked formed bubbles, after a second fermentation. The first sparkling wine in the world had just been invented in this splendid abbey.

Known as BLANQUETTE for the fine white coating which forms on its leaves, the Mauzac of the Blanquette appellation is the traditional grape variety of the Limoux vineyard. It distinguishes itself by its aromas of green apple, acacia flowers and apricot with toasted nuances. This Blanquette is perfect as an aperitif or with an entrée like marinated salmon.
Grapes : 90 % Mauzac, 10% Chardonnay

We realize that protecting the landscape is very important as well as respecting the biological diversity and we always tried to minimize the treatments. For each of our vines we apply the method of reasoned agriculture by observing the vineyard every day and with the help of a professional technician we know how to use treatments only if it’s really necessary. On the other hand we choose only products that help in protecting the soil : for example we only use organic fertilizer."

From me:
I love the idea that this is the original sparkling wine in France, but that it's a fraction of the cost of Champagne. This Blanquette de Limoux is one more wine in the shop that represents my interest in indigenous varietals and in winemakers who seek to explore older styles and techniques. The wine is fresh, bright, and perfect for a New Year's toast.

Champagne Rene Marie Catel Blanc de Noirs ($34.99)
Champagne, France
From the importer:
"Varieties : Pinot Noir 100%
Viticulture: Sustainable
Vinification : Traditional
Aging Bottle: 24-month
Tasting notes:
Radiant nose, revealing white-fleshed fruits (apple, pear, peach white), citrus (lemon) and floral nuances. Ample in the mouth, combining generosity and subtlety. Full, fresh and crisp.
​
Coming from families who have been growing grapes in Champagne since 1710, René and Marie-Noelle Dautel started producing their own champagne in 1971. Sylvain Dautel, their son, is now in charge of the vineyard located in Loches-Sur-Ource, a small village in the heart of Côte des Bars. Sylvain is perpetuating the tradition of his ancestors, using environmental friendly practices to create the most delicate, yet intense Champagnes. Cuvée René-Marie Catel is a rare Brut Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir), aged for two years on lees before disgorgement." 

From me:
This wine is incredible value for money. It's a grower Champagne (the people who own the vineyards make the wine), it's 100% Pinot Noir, it drinks like a dream, and it's under $40. This kind of bargain is very hard to find in Champagne, and it is thanks to the source of this product: Côte des Bar in the far south of the region. This used to be considered a second-rate area of Champagne, but in the last decade it has become more prominent, and a place in which winemakers aren't afraid to think outside the box. Read Wine Folly's excellent blurb about it here. 

Husch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($29.99)
Anderson Valley, California
From the producer:
"Founded in 1971, Husch is the oldest winery in the picturesque Anderson Valley. The vineyards are comprised of some of the earliest varietal plantings on the valley floor.

Sustainability at Husch is an ongoing process that began in the 1970s. At that time vineyard manager Al White became concerned with erosion on our hillsides and concluded that a no-till groundcover would solve the problem. That process of making improvements continues to this day.

Our five goals are: 1) reduce erosion, 2) conserve resources such as water and fuel, 3) protect the natural ecosystems that border our property, 4) use organic applications whenever possible, and 5) preserve the legacy grapevines on our properties for future generations.

Because these goals can be in conflict with each other we adapt our practices for each field. For example, erosion is a much bigger concern on our hillside fields. With fields closer to rivers and creeks we want to avoid chemicals - even those produced organically - that are potentially harmful to aquatic invertebrates.

As a result, we have a patchwork of practices. Some of our fields are farmed organically. Most of our fields have a permanent cover crop. All of our fields are certified "Fish Friendly." And we take pride that our farming practices, as a whole, require a minimum use of diesel fuel for each acre we farm.

The Anderson Valley is now world-renowned for its Pinot Noir grapes. Yet back in 1971 when Husch planted the first Pinot in the Valley many nay-sayers thought red grapes were a losing proposition for the region. Since that risky decision, history has proven that the warm days and cool nights of the region are near perfect for ripening Pinot Noir.

Winemaking
2017 brought a mild moderately wet winter, coupled with a warm spring and summer. Our first pick wasn’t until September 1st and we continued hand picking each vineyard block at optimum ripeness through October 6th. Almost all of our picks were scheduled for the wee hours of the morning, when the grapes are cold and covered with a touch of dew. Each batch was fermented with 20% whole clusters in small open top fermenters. The wine was gently pressed and aged 10 months in French oak barrels.

Tasting Notes
Expressive and inviting, our 2017 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir is happiness in a bottle. As soon as you pull the cork, aromas of sweet cherry, currant, rose petal, and graham cracker grace your nose. On the palate the wine expresses flavors matching the aromatics and is held together with sustained richness and bright acidity with a silky texture. Lovely on its own and will pair exceptionally with meals such as coq au vin, pork tenderloin, mushroom pasta, or creamy cheeses."

From me:
A good friend introduced Husch to me a few years ago, and I'm thrilled to bring their Pinot Noir to the shop. Anderson Valley wines are by far my favorite from California--it's a cool climate region perfect for grapes like Gewurztraminer, Sauv Blanc, and Pinot. The winemaking style, though varying by winery, is overall much more European in approach. The wines seem more reserved and nuanced, and Husch's Pinot definitely demonstrates this. I don't often choose Pinot Noir to drink, but this is one of the few exceptions.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (12.20.19)

12/27/2019

0 Comments

 
​de Bernard Cuvee Prestige Millesimato Prosecco ($13.99)
Veneto, Italy
From the producer:
"Tasting notes: very clear, pale straw-yellow tending to green, with a fine and persistent fizz.

The aroma is intense, persistent and fruity, exceptionally refined, with dominant notes of ripe golden apples and banana.

This medium sweet, fresh wine is pleasantly light and low in alcohol. It is also very soft and balanced with a long fruity finish.
Serving recommendations: best served at a temperature of 5-7°C, pouring immediately after removing the cork.

Recommended with: excellent as an aperitif. Goes well with fruits and delicate salty foods."

From me:
This is a bit unusual in that the producer is actually a Grappa specialist who also only makes Prosecco and no other wine. Though it has a little residual sugar, it still drinks fairly dry, and wow, does it go down easily! It's a nice example of a slightly more elegant Prosecco.

Goretti Grechetto ($17.99)
Umbria, Italy
From the producer:
"Goretti cellars have always been at the forefront of environmental protection.
Every business choice is inspired by obtaining the best quality of the grapes without undergoing excessive stress neither the vine plant nor the soil.

The cellars do not produce certified organic products but have always paid attention to the environmental impact that the winemaking production of companies can have, knowing that to make the difference of the products is the protection of their territories from which the vines are born and grow.
Environmental sustainability is therefore intended for Goretti wineries as the best way to transfer to a new generation a company and a territory that is not impoverished and excessively exploited but still rich in natural and human resources.

On 9th July 2013 the Goretti wineries received the Cifo prize “excellent footprints: sustainable agronomic techniques for a valuable viticulture”, dedicated to good environmental practices in the vineyard and in the cellar.

As evidence of the continuous search for innovation in respect of the environment, the cellars continue to invest in renewable energy through a photovoltaic system and operating in the local market with 100% electric means.

COLOUR 
light straw-yellow with faint greenish reflections

BOUQUET 
deep and elegant with fruit notes, in particular,
on the nose, are notes of pineapple, banana, yellow peach, Scotch broom flowers and almonds

TASTE 
fresh and full flavoured. Well-balanced with lingering
personality

HOW TO SERVE, SERVE WITH 
as an aperitif, excellent with many dishes, fish and white meat."

From me:
This is one of Sage's growing list of wines made from an indigenous varietal. It is fresh with a little body and a distinctly fruity character. The acidity and minerality keep it lifted on the palate and the finish lingers. Sauv Blanc drinkers will especially appreciate this style of wine. 

Querciavalle Chianti Classico Riserva ($24.99)
Tuscany, Italy
From the producer:
"Since the year of the wine estate establishment in 1954, the Riserva Querciavalle has always been considered as one of the most representative wine of the Losi family’s production. Appreciated also by the most demanding customers for its excellent quality, this wine represents the real authentic expression of Chianti Classico appellation. 

Wine making: Fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature lower than 27° for about 15-20 days, which is the average suitable time for extraction from the skin of colour, polyphenols, tannins and other typical features of Chianti Classico. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine is placed in cement-vitrified tanks for the second fermentation, until the malic acid gets totally exhausted. Only at this moment, the wine will be ready for ageing in wood Aging: 24-30 months in 53 hl Slavonian oak casks Refining: an additional rest in bottles for 3-6 months before merchandising further enhances Chianti Classico aromas and flavours. 
Bottles produced: 15,000 

Colour: brilliant deep ruby red, tending to garnet with aging
​Bouquet: intense, fine and charming, recalling ripen fruit, berries and vanilla;
Flavour: warm and harmonious; elegant noble tannins, dry, complex and with long-lasting finish
​Serving Suggestions: T-bone steak, lamb, wild boar and wild game"

From me:
The first time I tasted this wine, I didn't have strong feelings about it. Chianti is not my favorite, so I struggle a little with choosing which to sell in the shop. The second time I tried it, I was lucky enough to be dining with Francesco and Valeria Losi (daughter of the winemaking family and head of international sales). Over several courses we tried all of the brand's wines, and when I had the Chianti Riserva paired with food (specifically pork osso bucco), it was a revelation. It's no secret that a great pairing will bring out the best of the food and the wine, but this Chianti really demands to be enjoyed with a meal. You can appreciate it on its own, but a hearty, fatty, rich dish will really let it shine.

Bodegas Bleda Pino Doncel 12 Meses ($22.99)
Jumilla, Spain
From the producer:
"Made with a selection of Monastrell and Syrah grapes from our vineyards, this wine is aged at least twelve months in select French and American oak barrels. It has great aromatic intensity, complex on the nose and balanced on the palate. It is fruity and fresh, with mature tannins that give it volume and richness, as well as a long finish. A wine that always leaves you wanting more!

Monastrell (red-wine grapes with small, tightly bunched clusters) is the variety that best adapts to the conditions in Jumilla, as it needs a warm climate to ripen properly and tolerates the lack of rain very well. It ripens very well, given the ease with which both sunlight and air can penetrate its scarce foliage. The many hours of sunlight and abrupt temperature changes, with hot summer days and cool nights plus intensely cold winters with temperatures often dropping below freezing at night, give the Monastrell grapes a high concentration of essential components, allowing us to make powerful, deeply coloured wines with great structure and aromatic complexity.

Monastrell vines are not irrigated and require large swaths of land, as it is a low-yield grape that is harvested by hand in a “back-breaking” process.

Monastrell, in general, doesn’t need phytosanitary treatment, as it is highly resistant to cryptogams. The dry, arid climate of the region also helps in this regard. So, we can grow the grapes organically without any of the much-feared infestations vines are prone to in damper areas.

Color: deep cherry. Aroma: Sweet spice, ripe fruit. In mouth: Complex, ripe tannins, long finish."

From me:
If you are a California Cab or Old Vine Zin drinker, try this wine. It's big and bold, smooth on the palate, rich, and long-lasting. This wine is more elegant than others that I've had from the area, perhaps due to the addition of the Syrah, which gives it some backbone and keeps it from being a fruit bomb.

Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2008 ($69.99)
Tuscany, Italy
From the producer:
"A life and a passion devoted to agriculture …A life that has its roots in a strong and generous territory, the territory of Montalcino. 
…A life that the Fattoi family has always dedicated with absolute self-denial, enthusiasm and professionalism, to the production of wine and olive oil that have made Montalcino famous world-wide. 

Ageing: 4 years total, 2 in oak casks and tonneaux
Bottle ageing: 4 months at least
Average yearly production: 20.000 bottles of 0,750 lt.
Grape Varieties:
100% Sangiovese
Organoleptic characteristics:
Colour:
The wine is visibly limpid, brilliant, an intense ruby red color, with reflections of garnet.
Bouquet:
intense, persistent, full and ethereal, revealing the aromas of spices, forest floor, small red fruit and rich perfumed roses.
The taste:
The wine is elegant, harmonious, with long aromatic persistence, balanced tannins and well rounded, with a dry and persistent finish

Serving Temperature:
18° C. It is advisable to uncork the bottle at least 2 — 3 hours before serving. The wine benefits from being decanted in order to aerate the wine. Serve in crystal balloon glasses.

Recommended food accompaniment:
Red meats, game, mushroom and truffle dishes, aged cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano and Tuscan Pecorino. An excellent wine for meditation."

From me:
The pricing on this wine reflects that it is a 2008 (a very good vintage for Montalcino), but at the same time, the age and quality make this a fair bargain. This wine is approachable now, but will drink well over the next five years, though I am partial to opening now and enjoying it! Elegant, soft tannins prevail, but there is enough structure here to balance the dark red fruit and mild baking spices. A subtle earthiness underlies the fruit. This is a beautiful wine.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (12.6.19)

12/10/2019

0 Comments

 
​H. Blin Brut Champagne ($39.99)
Marne Valley, France
From the producer:
"Champagne H. BLIN embraces the Art of Champagne while remaining true to its remarkable character and style. Located in Vincelles, in the middle of the Marne Valley, Champagne H. BLIN primarily uses one of the most amazing varieties of the region: the Pinot Meunier.

This variety offers a unique and surprising taste with subtle freshness and fruitiness.

BLEND :
80% Pinot Meunier
20% Chardonnay

VINIFICATION:
Dosage 8 g/l
Disgorged 3 months minimum before delivery
Bottle age: 24 months minimum

TASTING NOTES :
Appearance : Golden straw, sparkling clear and transparent. Abundance of fine but persistent bubbles.
Nose : Lively and expressive. Scents of citrus freshness and nuances of freshly baked bread.
Palate : Simple and elegant. Lively aromas of ripe green apples and notes of toasty brioche.

FOOD PAIRING :
Daily aperitif
Tomato salad
Risotto with parmesan
Sweet and sour pork
Vanilla ice cream"

From me:
This Champagne is truly unique in its blend of grapes, and it drinks like a wine twice its price. The farming methods are organic, and the aim of the producer is to create a sense of terroir with their wines. This is not the approach of large producers like Veuve and Moët, which source grapes from all over the region of Champagne. The grapes for this Champagne come only from the area around the village of Vincelles. 

Poderi Vaiot "Franco" Arneis ($17.99)
Piedmont, Italy
From the producer:
"In 2001 after years of learning the family secrets from their father, Franco, Daniele and Walter Casetta began forging their own path in the wine world using their father’s vision as a guide. By studying, experimenting and combining passion with innovation, they have found a unique and distinctive style.

The vineyards and hills of the Roero where Poderi Vaiot is located stretch out as far as the eye can see, alternating with picturesque ravines, castles and old villages. This historic region of Piedmont straddles the provinces of Cuneo, Asti and Torino, and was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2014. 

The history of this area is inextricably linked to the important role played in its past by its namesake, the House of Roero, a noble family renowned as early as the XII century for its enterprise and power. The twenty-four small towns and villages which compose the region have remained almost unchanged and continue to live side-by-side, just as they did under the Roero family centuries ago.

Safeguarding this historic land and environment is important to Poderi Vaiot, where winegrowing traditions have always sought to establish equilibrium between man and nature. Treatments in the vineyard are limited as much as possible and carried out with the utmost care and attention. Most of the work is done by hand to preserve the land’s natural biodiversity. Many wild herbs grow in Poderi Vaiot’s estate vineyards. They are beneficial to the ecosystem and to health, and the intention is to protect them, rediscovering their uses and properties.

Fresh and delicate with fragrant chamomile and white peach on the nose. The palate follows through with flavors of lemon curd and pear balanced by vibrant acidity.

Grapes: 100% Arneis
Fermentation: Spontaneous fermentation with ambient yeasts in stainless steel tanks
Aging: 6 months on the lees in stainless steel and 2 months in bottle
Production: 30,000 bottles per year

Appearance: deep straw yellow with green hues.
Nose: fresh, delicate and tempting with a well-balanced fragrance of chamomile and white flesh fruit, an indelible remembrance of this kind of grape.
Palate: smooth and pronounced, slightly sharp for a fresh and lingering wine.
Gastronomic matching: it is excellent with the typical Piedmontese starters, cooked with white meat too. However, it also accompanies fish and first dishes, prepared with vegetable sauces, very well."

From me:
Arneis is the Italian white that I never knew I needed until I tasted it, and I hope that you love it as much as I do. It's both elegant and refreshing, fruity and floral. It's got enough body to make it a four-season wine.

Domaine les Evigneaux Rasteau 2016 ($22.99)
Southern Rhône Valley, France
From the producer:
"Origin:
Benoit and Frederic Lavau have always been fans of Rasteau which became a cru in 2010, and they have been making it for many years. Because of their special fondness for these vineyards whose outstanding exposure they recognize and which they consider to be 'atypical,' they decided to acquire 10 ha in the appellation in 2014. their 12 plots are located in Rasteau’s most emblematic terroirs. these are ideal vineyards for their plans to create a wine capable of delivering all the complexity and power of this extraordinary AOC.

Terroirs:
The Syrah vines are planted in the gravel and clay soil of the Quaternary terraces of Bellerive. Located in the south of the appellation, these are sunny and early ripening, providing the vines with perfect growing conditions. The Grenaches are planted to the north in cooler soil, accentuating the variance between day and night time temperatures and thereby enhancing the colour and aromatic intensity of the varietal. the pebble and gravel soil mixed with complex clay allows constant, even drainage and water supply.

'The nose is complex and of great depth, a mixture of blackcurrant, raspberry and vanilla extract. The palate is meaty and develops its intensity and power across the entire length of the wine. The tannins are robust and well integrated, promising a spectacular result after 3 to 5 years’ cellar ageing (if you can wait that long!).'"

Blend: Grenache 50% Syrah 30% Carignan 10% Mourvèdre 5% Cinsault 5%

Ageing: 12 months in new 228L barrels"

From me:
I've never met a Southern Rhône wine that I didn't like, and if pressed I admit that the region is, globally, my favorite. Rasteau is an appellation with which I was unfamiliar, so I was eager to try this wine. The blend of grapes is typical to the larger region, but the soil and exposure lend unique traits. This Rasteau shows some boldness of flavor, but its complexity makes it compelling. It's a wine to contemplate for a bit as you taste it. You can certainly enjoy it now, but do consider buying a bottle to lay down for a couple of years.

Alois Trebulanum ($34.99)
Campania, Italy
From the producer:
"Classification: Terre del Volturno IGT
Grape varietal: Casavecchia 100%
Production area: Pontelatone (CE/Italy)
The Casavecchia grape variety has a mysterious origin. There is an old country legend that narrates the discovery of a small grape vine in a 'casa vecchia' that means 'old house' in the township of Pontelatone.

This vine survived the epidemic times of the Phylloxera and the parasite fungus of Oidio dated 1851.

Casavecchia has extraordinary qualities and it is currently studied in the agricultural faculties of the University of Naples and Florence.

There are also some hypothesis that see the Casavecchia as the wine Trebulanum, praised by the Latin writer Pliny in his famous Historia Naturalis (Natural History) as a wine that came from vineyards on the hills surrounding the old town of Tremula Balliensis, an area that now comprehend the townships of Pontelatone, Castel di Sasso Liberi and Formicola.

The propagation started with the cut and the setting of a small branches and the provine, an ancient method that places the vine branch in the soil until it develops its own roots.

To the nose and the mouth, the Casavecchia gives an evocative fruity taste than only a few other fruits can give."

From me:
This single vineyard indigenous red is one of the most interesting wines I've yet tasted. My tasting notes on this include the word "perfect." The current vintage is 2012, and it can easily take 5-10 years of cellaring. If you want to enjoy it now, though, expect a bold tannin propping up deep red fruit and mild forest earthiness. This, to me, exemplifies Southern Italian wine at its best.
​
Poderi Vaiot Barbera d'Alba "Lupestre" ($19.99)
Piemonte, Italy
From the producer:
The Piedmontese wine par excellence, it reaches its absolute peak after 2/3 years of ageing.

Ageing: in apricot wood casks passed down through the generations.

Colour: bright, intense ruby red with purplish highlights.

Nose: delicate, ethereal, intense, expansive and persistent, featuring fruity plum, blackberry and cherry overtones, slightly spicy.

Taste: full-bodied and mouth-filling, varietal acidity, nicely balanced. The taste is dry, fresh and fragrant, very long.

Food pairings: particularly recommended with first courses, grilled or oven-roast red meat, and briefly/medium-matured soft cheeses."

From me:
This wine is new to the shop, though I've been eyeing it for a while. This is the same winery that produces the Arneis, and I think they do a spectacular job with their wines. Barbera is a little more approachable and robust than Nebbiolo, so I wanted to have this on hand for the winter. The apricot wood ageing is novel, but it does add a layer of complexity that you will not have found in other wines of the region.

Montalbera Ruché 'Laccento' 2015 ($33.99)
Piemonte, Italy
From the producer:
"The Montalbera Winery was founded at the beginning of the 20th century in the townships of Grana, Castagnole Monferrato, and Montemagno. In the mid-1980s, the Morando family began expanding their property by purchasing land in adjacent territories and planting it with new grapevines, mainly Ruchè. Today, a continuous stretch of vineyard encircles the winery. The vineyards are planted entirely on hillsides, supplying the vines with different expositions and soils, from clay to limestone. A unique aspect that has always distinguished Montalbera in the Piedmontese winemaking landscape is that the winery sits astride two of the region’s most important winemaking zones: the Monferrato and the Langhe.

For generations, the Morando family has believed and invested in Piedmontese viticulture. For years, they have passionately dedicated themselves to the development of the native variety Ruchè.

Because of their ongoing commitment, Montalbera arises as one of the great wineries of Piedmont. The foundation of their success lies in solid, recognizable values that translate very clearly in the wines they produce. Through rigor and planning, interpretation and terroir, Montalbera consistently creates 230,000 bottles per year of extraordinary quality. Each wine is interpreted in different ways, from stainless steel to wood, from overripe to withering, in order to best showcase the multifaceted personality of each varietal.

Intense ruby in red color, with slight purple notes. Extended, aromatic nose with fruity aromas of wild berry and jam. Warm on the palate, with a pleasant and rare silkiness on the finish.
Grapes: 100% Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato
Fermentation: In Stainless Steel Tanks using 95% overripe grapes, with 12-14 days of skin contact.
Aging: At least 6 Months in the bottle
Production: 54,000 bottles per year"

From me:
I tend to struggle with wines from Piemonte--well, with anything made from Nebbiolo anyway--because the lightness of the wine and the firmness of the tannin is too much for my palate. This for sure puts me in the minority of Italian wine drinkers, most of whom adore Barolo. I have been working on this weakness, and at the same time I've been exploring other grapes, including the indigenous and lesser-known Ruchè. This wine was a revelation to me: intense color, depth of flavor without too much weight on the palate, a slight jammy cranberry note, and enough structure without being overly tannic or acidic. Just a beautiful wine from an exquisite vintage.

Scarbolo Campo del Viotto 2015 ($43.99)
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
​From the producer:
"An intense deep ruby red color with pomegranate hues. Ripe notes of marasca cherries, sweet tobacco, dark chocolate and ripe wild berries.
Intense on the palate, with soft sweet tannins and spiced persistent finish.

Grapes: 100% Merlot

Fermentation: The first whole clusters harvested are dried out for about 20  days, then the fermentation occurs in small Oak Barrels. After the
fermentation, barrels are sealed and the wine remains in contact with the skins until mid December.

Aging: 2 Years in small Oak barriques; then 6
Months in the bottle prior to release
Production: 850 Cases"

From me:
Another wine from Scarbolo that flips the script. Hate Merlot? Think it's an unimpressive varietal? Try this wine. From the partial raisinating of the grapes to the long aging, this takes Merlot to the next level. Elegant and rich. This is one of the only shops in NY to have this vintage.
0 Comments

Last Week's Tasting Notes (11.22-11.23.19)

12/3/2019

0 Comments

 
Flor de Penalva Dao Red ($12.99)
Dao, Portugal
From the producer:
"Harvest: 2015
Technology: Total destemming crushing, fermentation in stainless steel vats at 28-30 ° C, aging in stainless steel vats for 1 year.

Taste: Ruby color, bright appearance, clean aroma, with fruity notes, pine wood and wild flowers. In the mouth it has good freshness, body, soft tannins and pleasant finish."

From me:
This winery uses a cooperative of growers in order to get the best fruit, which in this case includes two varietals of Spanish origin and one that's indigenous to the local area. Tinta-Roriz (Tempranillo), Jaen (Mencia), and Alfrocheiro make up this blend that has a delicate elegance. This is not the bold Portuguese red that I've had--it is, as reflected in its name, a floral wine that is light/medium on the palate. This is a real value for the quality.

De Muller Aureo Dulce Anejo 1954 ($29.99)
Tarragona, Spain
From the producer:
"An exquisite sweet wine elaborated from the most selected vines of white Garnacha and red Garnacha and aged for long in oak barrels using the best solera method.

Splendid amber colour with numerous mahogany tones.

Rich, sensational, with many nuances, this sweet wine tastes very smooth, with fruity notes of prunes, raisins and figs giving us a very agreeable and warm sensation with a clear toasted aftertaste which shows us its long ageing in old oak casks.

This is the perfect wine for special celebrations and for normal days, too. Ideal with dried fruits, nougats, fresh cheese, quince, foie-gras and all dessert recipes. Sublime to be drunk alone."

From me:
This is a fortified wine, not unlike Port, but with the flavor profile closer to an Italian Vin Santo. The solera method of aging means that as bottles come off the oldest barrel, a little wine is left and blended with some from the next-oldest barrel. What that comes down to is that there's a tiny bit of the original 1954 wine in this bottle. If you love dessert wines, if you've never had one, or if you think you won't like one, please try this. It's wonderful.

Etienne Oudart Champagne--Brut Référence ($50.99)
Champagne, France 
From the distributor:
"Jacques Oudart belongs without any doubt to the upcoming stars of the Champagne area. The Oudart Family has been involved in Champagne making since the late 1950’s. They own 22 acres spread mainly over 2 regions: Vallee de la Marne and the Epernay area. This is definitively a major asset  as it gives Jacques the possibility to blend all 3 grape varietals and still have the influence of all the various terroirs.

Jacques Oudart is very meticulous about winemaking and insists on extending his Champagne aging in order to hit the perfect ripeness when the bottle reaches the consumer.

Champagne Oudart’s trademark is to create elegant and fine wines. Most of the cuvee blend uses Chardonnay for its strength, Pinot Meunier for the fruit and Pinot Noir to add personality.

Bright gold color with some note of copper. On the tasting aromas of toast, brioche and hazelnuts appear. Long aromatic persistence in the mouth."

From me:
This Champagne is produced sustainably with minimal chemical intervention. The production is relatively small at 25,000 bottles per year. I sometimes find Champagne to be too "yeasty" tasting, but this one strikes a nice balance with the fruit and acidity. I find that it is great value for money, and it's nice to be able to support a smaller winemaker. I would much rather drink Oudart than Moët or Veuve.

Domaine du Chateau de Fleys Chablis 2015 ($25.99)
Burgundy, France
From the distributor:
"Julien Philippon moved from the neighbouring Morvan region to Fleys in 1868 as a lumberjack . Gradually he bought land and vineyards that still today represent the majority of the Estate. Julien Philippon, on the advice of an old winemaker and general counselor in Chablis, was certainly the first to plant the rootstock 161-49 in 1936, vines still in production at the place called 'Les Monts de Milieu.' Since the Estate has been transmitted through the generations. Today the Estate cultivates about 55 acres on some of the best Chablis terroir, all around the central 'mont du milieu.'

An AOP Chablis that has the depth of a 1er Cru! This Chablis comes from a 4 ac 20 year old vineyard adjacent to the 1er Cru 'Les Fourneaux.' Aged 100% in stainless tank, it stays on the lees for 10 months. The vinification gives this wine the minerality of Chablis with a complex aroma structure. This Chablis has an exceptional concentration and length in mouth, which makes it a great choice for seafood,asparagus and goat cheese. It can also just be enjoyed for what it is: a great expression of Chablis!"

​From me:
​It was HARD to rid my mind of the image of a big jug of bad California wine whenever I heard the word "Chablis." I call it wine trauma. I was finally able to accept that proper Chablis has NOTHING to do with Carlo Rossi. Even so, I put off selling one for about a year, and then Thomas introduced me to this beauty. Technically this is entry-level, but it's about as fantastic a wine as you can get outside 1er Cru, and it will, I guarantee, heal any wine wounds you might have when it comes to the name "Chablis."

Clos des Cazaux Vacqueyras "Les Clefs d'Or" ($26.99)
Southern Rhone
From Thomas:
"The Clos des Cazaux domaine was founded in 1905 by Gabriel Archimbaud. The Archimbaud and Vache families are among the oldest ones in Vacqueyras, dating back to 1635. The 98 acre estate is currently run by Jean Michel and Frederic Vache.

The vines are cultivated with utmost respect to the environment. Only Bordeaux mixture (antifungal agent consisting of a solution of copper sulfate and quicklime) and sulfur are used in the phytosanitary (pertaining to the health of plant) and vineyard treatment. At all times, the vineyards are manually tended, including manual harvest. To ensure optimal quality, only the best grapes are selected during a green harvest in Summer which eliminates at least 20% of the production.

Vacqueyras is also a 'cru' since 1990. The appellation rules are very similar to those of Gigondas, and thus to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, although only half the grapes in a red Vacqueyras haf to be Grenache. The rest are usually Syrah. Mourvedre, and Cinsault. Vacqueyras may be red, white, or rose, although only a miniscule proportion of its dramatically expanded vinyard total of 1,000 ha/2,500 acres is planted with white grape varieties.

The Wine
50% Clairette, 30% Rousanne, 20% Grenache Blanc
10,000 bottles produced annually

The juice ferments naturally and its temperature is maintained at 16 C all through fermentation. This allows to obtain a pure white wine with a lively acidity. It features flavours of fennel and white flowers. The c
Clairette brings a refreshing acidity. The mouth is long and soft."

From me:
This wine is one that you really won't see often. Not only is the production quite limited, but in general white Vacqueyras is a rare find. In the U.S. we have finally embraced red blends, but white blends are still elusive, and that's a shame. White Rhone blends are particularly lovely, and can be enjoyed year-round. This wine is a fine example: it has a full, round mouthfeel, and is soft on the palate, but with just enough acidity to give it structure and character. This is something special.

Hesperian "Anatomy No. 1" 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($34.99)
Napa Valley, California
From the distributor:
"Anatomy No. 1 Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of fruit from select vineyards in Napa Valley and aged 18 months in a mix of 20% new French oak; 30% once- and 50% twice-used French oak. Anatomy No. 1 is a medium bodied Cabernet Sauvignon that has cedar, graphite, and pencil lead notes similar to French Bordeaux, but wrapped inside there is California ripe fruit qualities of blackberry, plum, fennel and baking spices from oak aging that emerge through over time. All of Philippe's wines are meant for contemplation and it pays off to experience them slowly. They are made to reflect the land and the influence nature has on the subtle nuances in tannin, aromatics, and flavor.

The Winemaker 
While at Rothschild-held Château Clarke in the Médoc, Philippe Langner worked alongside Jacques Boissenot and Michel Rolland, the man responsible for some of the world’s highest-scoring and notoriously rare clarets and Cabernets. Following a season in South Africa, Philippe returned to California — he earned his degree at U.C. Davis — spending a decade as head viticulturist and winemaker at Napa’s Sullivan Winery, while simultaneously developing Hesperian. In 2010 Philippe left Sullivan, settling into Hesperian full-time at his current 14-acre plot on Atlas Peak. Philippe Langner, under his Hesperian label, makes single-vineyard (mostly), small-lot Napa Cabs from carefully chosen sites in well-regarded areas of the valley, such as Rutherford, Spring Mountain and Coombsville, in addition to Atlas Peak where he is located."

​From me:
This is a great example of how Napa Cabs are starting to diverge from the monolithic fruit bombs that they have been. For sure there are some great wines that are big, bold, and fruity, but recently some winemakers are using a more delicate hand to craft an end product that speaks more of terroir and nuance than simple flavor profile. I think there is room for both, and I'm happy to sell this Napa Cab to show what a French influence can have over a California style. It is a lovely marriage of ripe fruit and restrained oaking that is a delight to drink.
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    Author

    Jes Rich

    I am the owner of Sage Wine & Spirits. I have a background in English Literature, organic agriculture, horticulture, and of course, alcohol appreciation. This blog will reflect my own experiences in those fields. I will provide educational and interesting information about my products, and about trends in the industry that affect my customers. If you have any suggestions for posts, please drop a line.

    Happy Drinking!

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