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There is an entire vocabulary that wine professionals use to talk about, rate, and sell wine. While it can be helpful to know some of those terms, they can also create an exclusionary feeling for the average consumer. Do you need to be able to identify the subtle notes of lead pencil shavings in your Cabernet? No, you do not. If learning how to talk about wine in such ways seems important to you or fun, by all means, carry on! If not, that's okay, too! If I had to choose one really useful lesson to know, though, it's how to differentiate between “sweet” and “fruit-forward” (or “fruity”). When helping customers choose wine, we often land on the topic of sweetness, and inevitably the conversation evolves into a discussion of sugar content versus aroma and flavor profile. Since this comes up so frequently, I thought I'd jot down some helpful information in the blog. Let's start by defining our terms so that we're all on the same page: Residual sugar: the sugar that's left in the wine after fermentation ends. I like to think of it like Pac-Man. Imagine that Pac-Man is the yeast and the “dots” are the sugars in the grape juice. The yeast eats up the sugars, producing alcohol, and any “dots” that didn't get eaten are residual sugar. In general, then, wine with higher residual sugar tends to be lower in alcohol. Most Moscato, for instance, is about 5.5-9.5% alcohol by volume (ABV) while dry reds tend to be 12-15.5% ABV. Sweet: Wines that contain a larger amount of residual sugar. The spectrum of sweetness goes from 9-120+ grams/liter (or .9%-12.0%+) Dry: Wines that contain 9 g/l (.9%) residual sugar or less. Off-dry, medium-dry/semi-sweet, and medium-sweet fall on the spectrum in between dry and sweet. See Wine Folly's helpful graphic here. Now that we have some definitions, let's talk about how this plays into your wine-buying experience. When I ask customers what they are looking for in a wine, often the answer is “anything, but not sweet” or “nothing really dry, but not super sweet.” After many conversations, I realized that we weren't always talking about the same thing, and it took a while for me to figure out how to talk about residual sugar content versus aroma and flavor. Aside from knowing what the numbers on a bottle of wine indicate (ABV and RS), what does it mean to be dry or sweet? I have found that people often use “sweet” to describe the aromas and flavors that they discern in a wine, independent of the residual sugar content. That is, a wine that comes across as fruit-forward or giving the initial impression of cherries, berries, plums, etc., may strike us as “sweet” because our brains associate that smell or taste with sweetness. When we taste a real strawberry, it is relatively sweet, so we think: strawberry=sweet. When we taste something like strawberry in a wine, our brain recognizes the flavor as a sweet one. If you've ever had savory strawberry soup, you will know that it takes a minute to get over the mental hurdle of taste association. So fruitiness can often come across as seeming sweet, even if there is little residual sugar. When I know that a wine is fruit-forward, and a customer is asking for something very dry, we move along to another product. If someone wants a wine that is not sweet “like Moscato,” but not super dry, a fruit-forward wine can be just the thing. In both red and white wines, acidity levels play into the perception of sweetness as well. If a fruit-forward wine also has a high acid content, it will come across as less sweet. Pinot Grigio is a great example of this, because while it is vinified as a dry wine, many customers say that they want to avoid a “sweet Pinot.” What they have discerned is that some styles of Pinot have lower acidity and strong, ripe fruit aromas/flavors, while others have higher acidity. If you are drinking a Pinot Grigio that is very tart and crisp, it is probably more acidic. Red wines have varying levels of acidity, but they also have varying levels of tannins. An easy way to understand how tannins work on your palate is to over-steep black tea. When you drink it, you'll notice that it seems to dry out your mouth, usually in the middle of your tongue and in the front part of your cheeks. Red wines also have tannins (they occur naturally in the skins, seeds, and stems of grapes and can be conferred by the oak of wine barrels). A dry red wine that is very fruit-forward might come across as less sweet-tasting because of the drying mouthfeel of strong tannins. When a customer is looking for a red wine that isn't “very dry” but not sweet, we talk about avoiding one that is very tannic. There are five main characteristics that define a wine, and I remember them with this mnemonic device: Acidity Sweetness Body Alcohol Tannin As you try wines, attempt to discern in what proportion these work best for your palate. These characteristics are quantitative and qualitative: they have measurable values that produce both predictable and subjective results. For instance, high acidity will create a certain level of tartness in a white wine, but the way one person experiences that sensation might be different from the way another does. This brings us back to sweetness. Residual sugar is measurable and directly informs a wine's sweetness, while fruit-forwardness is a subjective perception on the palate that can exist irrespective of RS. Figuring out how you feel about both and trying to articulate your preferences can be very useful when you shop so that you don't end up with a dessert wine when you really wanted a Napa Cab. When tasting wine, look at the alcohol content and, if it's listed, the RS content. Think about, as you taste, what's happening in your mouth. Get to know how your own palate works, and how you perceive wines in relation to the measurable characteristics. The most important aspect of wine-buying is that you go home with a bottle that's right for you, and not one that someone else tells you is the best. Being able to tease out the aspects of wine that suit you and using some basic terminology should help you to that end. Happy drinking!
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Glendalough Wild Irish Gin ($34.99)
County Wicklow From the producer: "To make this extraordinary gin, we forage wild plants in the mountains around the distillery. What we pick goes fresh into the still within hours of foraging. All the plants are sustainably picked by our full time forager, every day we distill. We take a lot of care that we don't adversely effect the areas we find them in. That means sometimes using scissors rather than picking to make sure roots aren't pulled, or maybe skipping a few before picking the next one, or finding different patches of the same plant, to make sure an area isn't over-foraged. Our aim is to leave no trace that we were ever there. It's harder work but worth it to keep the mountains beautiful and wild. Then these wild botanicals are painstakingly slow-distilled to tease out delicate flavours, in very small batches of less than 250 liters. Some go in the pot, and some are hung in a basket to let vapors extract their essential oils. The cut-points are decided batch by batch, by smell and taste (never timed or automated) as if each batch is the first. This brings the flavour of our Wild Gin to a whole other level. The knowledge, experience and man-hours in each bottle are what make this liquid so special." From me: The first time I tried this Gin, I fell in love. It's one of my top three of all time, and it's also my house go-to. I love that the botanicals are hand harvested from the wild, and that they go into the still fresh, rather than dried. I think that informs the delicacy of the flavor. Do watch the video found here. Writers' Tears Copper Pot Irish Whiskey ($40.99) County Carlow From the producer: "Writers’ Tears is a unique vatting of Aged Single Pot Still and Single Malt whiskey. Distilled entirely from Pot Still and Malt, without Grain, this is a truly special Irish whiskey. Writers’ Tears is triple distilled, non-peated and matured and aged in American Oak bourbon casks. A gold Medal winner at the International Spirits Challenge in London and one of the highest rated Irish Whiskeys in Jim Murray’s Iconic 'Whiskey Bible' 'Altogether a very unusual Irish Whiskey, a throwback to the last century where spiced Pure Pot Still whiskey was married with Floral Single Malt' – Jim Murray . It has also been added to Ian Buxton’s publication '101 Whiskeys to try before you die.' Nose: Flashes of apple with hints of vanilla and honey over a distinctively pot still base. Palate: Gently spiced with a burst of ginger and butterscotch with background notes of toasted oak. Finish: Long Elegant finish with subtle notes of milk chocolate and almonds." From me: This is the first Irish Whiskey that really made me take note. It's easy and mellow with a depth of flavor that will leave you satisfied. I like that it's a family-owned business, and that they are committed to maintaining the integrity of their product. Put down the Jameson and pick up the Writers' Tears! Prizefight Irish Whiskey ($43.99) County Cork From the producer: "When Flor Prendergast decided to create a whiskey, he brought in his American friend and spirits maverick, Steven Grasse, who had an idea that required a transatlantic collaboration: whiskey from Ireland, finished in rye barrels from America. They formed Pugilist Spirits to bring this idea to life, with whiskey distilled and aged in West Cork, Ireland and rye barrels sourced by Grasse’s own Tamworth Distilling in the U.S. Inspired by the Irish-American connection, Grasse had the idea to call the whiskey Prizefight. The brand tells the incredible stories of the Irish who came to America and became the greatest fighters of their day. Each bottle commemorates the boxing legends who came with nothing and fought for everything. Prizefight is a collaborative Irish whiskey, distilled and aged in Ireland, and finished in American rye casks. The result is incredibly complex whiskey, a smooth and mellow spirit that packs a punch but never burns. Prizefight is a blend of 10-year-old malt and 4-year-old grain, finished in rye barrels for 6 months. Tasting Notes: Fresh and clean with fruit, floral, and spice notes. Sweet and refreshing up front, followed by a subtle hint of bitterness and a spicy finish." From me: I like the transatlantic approach that the producers use for this Whiskey, and as a lover of Rye, I definitely appreciate the spicy note on the finish. The prizefight to which the name refers was between Yankee Sullivan and John Morrissey, which is notable for our area because Morrissey was one of the founders of Saratoga race track. Pour a glass and drink a toast to Ireland, to scrappy fighters, and to the legacy of John Morrissey! West Cork Distillers Glengarriff Bog Oak Cask Whiskey ($39.99) County Cork From the producer: "West Cork Distillers’ Glengarriff Collection of Irish whiskeys are single malts aged for 4 years in sherry casks before being finished in barrels that have been charred using natural fuel sources obtained from the iconic Glengarriff Forest in Southern Ireland. Each barrel is prepared using a proprietary charring device that was hand-built by West Cork Distillers with the guidance of a local fifth-generation blacksmith. Each of these special release whiskeys delivers a unique flavor profile that embodies the innovative spirit of West Cork Distillers. Bog Oak Charred Cask: Aroma - Spice, dried leather with a sweet dried fruit undertone Taste - Intense spice, malt and cracked pepper Finish - Spice, nutmeg and long lasting malt" From me: This will be the most unusual Irish Whiskey you'll taste. There's an earthy undertone to the flavor that I find really compelling, and there's more smoke than you might be used to from Ireland. I would call this the wine drinker's/Scotch lover's/cigar smoker's Irish Whiskey. The method for imparting this flavor profile is also unique: rather than smoking the malt, the barrels used at the end of the aging process are charred using a bog oak fire. The result is both light and earthy. Jean-Louis "Grande Réserve" Côtes du Rhône ($13.99)
Southern Rhône Valley, France From the distributor: "This wine is the creation of Jean Louis Canto, owner of the great Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate Domaine de la Roncière. Jean-Louis produces this “Grande Réserve” from Plan-de-Dieu, a region which now covers an area of 1,500 hectares at an altitude of 100 meters. The vines grow on a bed of red clay packed to a depth of 10 metres with a mass of smooth-rolled pebbles. Given this stony foundation, the skimpy soils yield little: some barely have enough grapes to produce one bottle of wine per vinestock. The wines are all reds, made from three of the Côtes du Rhône’s leading grape varieties: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. From this soil, they produce wines that are high in color, dense and concentrated. The nose is reminiscent of the surrounding garrigue, with scents of thyme and bay laurel. Juicy yet structured Côtes du Rhône displaying aromas of red berries and black fruit, hints of earthy undertones and fine tannins. This wine will seduce your senses and bring a touch of elegance to hors d’œuvres, pork and roasted meats. Grapes: 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre Soil: Sand and clay Age of Vines: 30 Years Old Fermentation: 60% whole cluster, 40% destemmed in concrete for 18 days Aging: 12 months in concrete vats Production: 144,000 bottles per year" From me: I have been planning to introduce a mid-level Côtes du Rhône, and this one found me at just the right time. It is an incredible value for money, an excellent example of a more robust style from the region, and very well-balanced. Fermentation and aging take place in concrete, which allows for flavor development without taking on characteristics of a barrel. I am very pleased to offer this wine. Cantine Monfort Blanc de Sers Brut Nature ($21.99)
Trentino From the producer: "Blanc de Sers Brut Nature is a sparkling wine produced in according to Metodo Classico method: nine months on the lees obtained from the grapes Valderbara, Vernaza and Nosiola cultivated on the terraced hills of Serso and Viarago. The optimal altitude between 550 and 700 meters a.s.l., the particular acidity of these grapes and their delicate aroma combined with the right period of ageing on the lees provide a quality creamy sparkling with a fresh and enchanting bouquet. Brut nature, zero dosage or pas dosé, the choice of our sparkling wine master to make in the flûte what grapes and terroir have to say. Colour: pale yellow. Bouquet: white flowers and a hint of green apple enhanced by a touch of hay. Perlage: enhances the flavor and length. Accostamenti gastronomici Excellent as an aperitif, it goes very well with light appetizers, with dishes based on fresh water fish and seafood, soup and mushrooms." From me: I carry several wines from Cantine Monfort because they are doing a great job of making high quality wines from lesser known, indigenous grapes. This sparkling wine is elegant and delicious, and is a nice step up from Prosecco. Perfect for your special someone! Querciavalle Chianti Classico Riserva ($24.99) Tuscany From the producer: "Since the year of the wine estate establishment in 1954, the Riserva Querciavalle has always been considered as one of the most representative wine of the Losi family’s production. Appreciated also by the most demanding customers for its excellent quality, this wine represents the real authentic expression of Chianti Classico appellation. Wine making: Fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature lower than 27° for about 15-20 days, which is the average suitable time for extraction from the skin of colour, polyphenols, tannins and other typical features of Chianti Classico. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine is placed in cement-vitrified tanks for the second fermentation, until the malic acid gets totally exhausted. Only at this moment, the wine will be ready for ageing in wood Aging: 24-30 months in 53 hl Slavonian oak casks Refining: an additional rest in bottles for 3-6 months before merchandising further enhances Chianti Classico aromas and flavours. Bottles produced: 15,000 Colour: brilliant deep ruby red, tending to garnet with aging Bouquet: intense, fine and charming, recalling ripen fruit, berries and vanilla; Flavour: warm and harmonious; elegant noble tannins, dry, complex and with long-lasting finish Serving Suggestions: T-bone steak, lamb, wild boar and wild game" From me: The first time I tasted this wine, I didn't have strong feelings about it. Chianti is not my favorite, so I struggle a little with choosing which to sell in the shop. The second time I tried it, I was lucky enough to be dining with Francesco and Valeria Losi (daughter of the winemaking family and head of international sales). Over several courses we tried all of the brand's wines, and when I had the Chianti Riserva paired with food (specifically pork osso bucco), it was a revelation. It's no secret that a great pairing will bring out the best of the food and the wine, but this Chianti really demands to be enjoyed with a meal. You can appreciate it on its own, but a hearty, fatty, rich dish will really let it shine. Goretti L'Arringatore ($39.99) Umbria From the producer: "60% Sangiovese, 30% Merlot and 10% Ciliegiolo MATURATION: about 14/16 months in barrique REFINING: about 12/14 months in bottle AGEING POTENTIAL: 10 or more years depending on the vintage COLOUR: intense ruby red with violet hues BOUQUET: complex and very intense, with notes of mature, exotic fruit and honey TASTE: aromatic, elegant with fine notes, long and lingering SERVE WITH: roast and grilled meats, excellent with mature cheeses and pasta dishes with tomato sauce." From me: This is newer to the shop, and I'm very excited to have another Umbrian wine to offer. L'Arringatore is bold and rich, though not really full-bodied. There's quite a bit of dark fruit balanced by firm tannins. I think a California Cab drinker will be especially drawn to this. It's best if opened two hours before drinking. Cantine Monfort Teroldego Rotaliano ($19.99) Trentino From the producer: "This wine is unanimously considered the prince of Trentino wines. The vine is native to Trentino and the wine shares certain biochemical characteristics with Marzemino. It takes its name from a village near the town of Mezzolombardo called Teroldeghe. The fundamental characteristic of this variety is that it grows and gives its best only in the Piana Rotaliana area whose soil is the result of alluvial detritus deposited by the River Noce. WINE MAKING METHOD Traditional red-wine fermentation on the skins, malolactic fermentation and refining first in stainless steel, then in bottle for some months. TASTING NOTES Colour: intense ruby red with purple highlights. Bouquet: intense, fruity with blackberry and bilberry notes. Palate: full, warm with a rounded softness. FOOD MATCHING Roasted red meats, grilled meats and strongly flavoured cheeses." From me: Teroldego is a fairly obscure indigenous grape, and when you find it, it's rarely as a 100% varietal. This wine is medium bodied, with a racy acidity that comes from the cooler climate in which the vines grow. The flavor profile is somewhere between Pinot Noir and Gamay, but with more depth. Tenute Soletta Sardo Cannonau ($18.99) Sardinia From the producer: "The 'Tenute Soletta di Umberto Soletta' agricultural holding has a recent history if compared to cellars that are hundreds of years old. However, it has an interesting story of love and passion for the Earth since being launched. The proof? Umberto is still, even today, cultivating a vineyard and an olive grove that he planted with his dad when he was 5. While he was studying, Umberto would spend most of his spare time in the countryside: his big passion together with motorsports (when he was young, he took part in various Rally competitions). After completing his studies, he started working the fields full-time, keeping an important family tradition alive. This passion later became his job. A 'farmer', as he likes to describe himself. In the mid ‘90s, he created the cellar and planted various vineyards, knowing that the value of a wine also depends on the quality of grapes and of the place where they grow. Through intense land reclamation, combined with utmost attention to landscape details, he has brought back the traditional typology of the vineyard by creating a harmonious relationship between the human intervention and the surrounding, sometimes wild, natural environment. The cultivation of vineyards respects the principles of integrated pest control to preserve the environment for future generations we borrowed it from. Today, the company is run by Umberto, his wife Caterina, his sister Pina and the elder father who still work in the vines and cellar every day despite being 95 years old. Vinification: In red and maceration with skins for 20 days. Ageing: 24 months in stainless steel on yeasts Refining in the bottle: 12 Mounths Colour: Ruby, clear and shine Flavour: Intense and typical perfume, with mineral and earthy recalls, pomegranate and sweet violet. Taste: Balanced, warm with glyceric strength well contrasted by round and elegant tannins. Gastronomic combination: It perfectly matches grilled red meats, pasta with game sauces and aged cheeses." From me: Cannonau is also known as Grenache (France) and Garnacha (Spain). When the grape comes from Sardinia, though, it has a character all its own. The soil and climate produce wines that are higher in alcohol, but low in acidity, with mineral and tobacco undertones. Sardinian Cannonau is like no other wine, and is a must try. This is a particularly nice example of the style. Scarbolo Campo del Viotto 2015 ($43.99)
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy From the producer: "An intense deep ruby red color with pomegranate hues. Ripe notes of marasca cherries, sweet tobacco, dark chocolate and ripe wild berries. Intense on the palate, with soft sweet tannins and spiced persistent finish. Grapes: 100% Merlot Fermentation: The first whole clusters harvested are dried out for about 20 days, then the fermentation occurs in small Oak Barrels. After the fermentation, barrels are sealed and the wine remains in contact with the skins until mid December. Aging: 2 Years in small Oak barriques; then 6 Months in the bottle prior to release Production: 850 Cases" From me: Another wine from Scarbolo that flips the script. Hate Merlot? Think it's an unimpressive varietal? Try this wine. From the partial raisinating of the grapes to the long aging, this takes Merlot to the next level. Elegant and rich. We previously tasted the 2013 vintage, which is wonderful (both on the day of opening and the next day). This is the 2015, which was an excellent year for Italian wine. As of this posting, Sage is the only store in Upstate NY that carries this vintage, but there is still very little of it. This is a perfect special occasion or gift wine. Casinova di Neri Irrosso ($21.99)
Tuscany From the producer: "We believe that wines are the fruit of the vineyard and of man's labour. The care and passion in working the land has to take into account the characteristics of the land, the microclimate and the variety so as to produce a unique distinct wine able to express its territory. For over forty years our evolution has been marked by careful targeted choices that have distinguished our estate and the wines we produce creating their own style. A constant search for particular soils that exalt the quality and uniqueness of our wines and farming practices that respect the land and the vines are followed by attentive care in the making of the wine. Our wines are the fruit of exceptional combinations of soils and microclimates together with passionate and meticulous work enabling us to obtain constant results and to enhance the distinct features of the grapes throughout the different vintages. This wine is born from the grapes of the 'Cetine' vineyards to the south of Montalcino where our Brunello Tenuta Nuova and our Rosso di Montalcino come from. It is obtained from Sangiovese Grosso and Colorino grapes (the plants are reproductions of old varieties that we found in our oldest vineyards). We tried to produce a wine typical of our land and closely linked to it but with the style and characteristics of Casanova di Neri wines. It can be drunk at once or kept for some years giving even greater satisfaction. Vinification: selection table for bunches, de-stemming, selection table for individual grapes. Vats filled by gravity. Fermentation without use of yeast additives and maceration in open conical vats at controlled temperatures for ¾ weeks Aged in oak barrels for around 15 months and 6 months in bottle. Tasting notes: Intense ruby red, hints of wild cherry, violets and red fruits ample and easy to drink with excellent persistence. Serve at a temperature of 16° - 17° opening the bottle a few hours previously or decant delicately. Accompaniments: Tuscan cold cuts, pasta with tomato sauce, roast white meats." From me: Brunello di Montalcino is considered one of the top Italian wines, but even a "bargain" bottle will cost you upwards of $30. This is in part because the production area allowed is small, and because Brunellos must comply with a longer aging requirement. The other two Montalicino wines produced from Sangiovese demand less aging (Rosso di Montalcino) or can be both younger and blended with other grapes (Sant'Antimo). Irrosso is a fine example of the latter, though it has quite a bit of barrel age on it. This one is a very good alternative to higher priced wine from the area, and it still gives you an idea of the style and terroir of Montalcino. San Marzano Primitivo di Manduria ($15.99) Puglia From the producer: "Production area: San Marzano, Salento, Puglia. The area is about 100 meters above sea level, with high average temperatures and medium-low rainfall. The soft soil layer is clayey and quite thin, with a good presence of rocks. Ageing: In French and American wood barrels for 6 months. Ageing potential: A wine that preserves its organoleptic characteristics for 5 years. Tasting notes: Ruby red colour enriched with violet reflections; generous bouquet, which recalls ripe cherries and plums, with pleasant notes of cocoa and vanilla. This wine has a velvety texture, softened by the warmth of the Primitivo grapes; the finish offers notes of persistent sweetness. Best served with: Savoury first courses, lamb and game with rich sauces, hard cheeses." From me: Primitivo is genetically very similar to Zinfandel (they are both clones of the same Croatian grape), and it produces a round, fruit-forward, and smooth wine. While many Italian reds are noted for their strong tannins, Primitivos are a bit more mellow and approachable. This is a great example of wines from the "heel" of Italy, where the climate and soil lend bold ripeness and light earthiness. Les Vignobles de Jacques Blanquette de Limoux ($15.99)
France From the producer: "Blanquette de Limoux was created in 1531 in the cellars of the Benedictine Saint Hilaire Abbey when a monk discovered that the wine that he had bottled and carefully corked formed bubbles, after a second fermentation. The first sparkling wine in the world had just been invented in this splendid abbey. Known as BLANQUETTE for the fine white coating which forms on its leaves, the Mauzac of the Blanquette appellation is the traditional grape variety of the Limoux vineyard. It distinguishes itself by its aromas of green apple, acacia flowers and apricot with toasted nuances. This Blanquette is perfect as an aperitif or with an entrée like marinated salmon. Grapes : 90 % Mauzac, 10% Chardonnay We realize that protecting the landscape is very important as well as respecting the biological diversity and we always tried to minimize the treatments. For each of our vines we apply the method of reasoned agriculture by observing the vineyard every day and with the help of a professional technician we know how to use treatments only if it’s really necessary. On the other hand we choose only products that help in protecting the soil : for example we only use organic fertilizer." From me: I love the idea that this is the original sparkling wine in France, but that it's a fraction of the cost of Champagne. This Blanquette de Limoux is one more wine in the shop that represents my interest in indigenous varietals and in winemakers who seek to explore older styles and techniques. The wine is fresh, bright, and perfect for a New Year's toast. Champagne Rene Marie Catel Blanc de Noirs ($30.99) France From the importer: "Varieties : Pinot Noir 100% Viticulture: Sustainable Vinification : Traditional Aging Bottle: 24-month Tasting notes: Radiant nose, revealing white-fleshed fruits (apple, pear, peach white), citrus (lemon) and floral nuances. Ample in the mouth, combining generosity and subtlety. Full, fresh and crisp. Coming from families who have been growing grapes in Champagne since 1710, René and Marie-Noelle Dautel started producing their own champagne in 1971. Sylvain Dautel, their son, is now in charge of the vineyard located in Loches-Sur-Ource, a small village in the heart of Côte des Bars. Sylvain is perpetuating the tradition of his ancestors, using environmental friendly practices to create the most delicate, yet intense Champagnes. Cuvée René-Marie Catel is a rare Brut Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir), aged for two years on lees before disgorgement." From me: This wine is incredible value for money. It's a grower Champagne (the people who own the vineyards make the wine), it's 100% Pinot Noir, it drinks like a dream, and it's under $35. This kind of bargain is very hard to find in Champagne, and it is thanks to the source of this product: Côte des Bars in the far south of the region. This used to be considered a second-rate area of Champagne, but in the last decade it has become more prominent, and a place in which winemakers aren't afraid to think outside the box. Read Wine Folly's excellent blurb about it here. Wines of Illyria Stone Cuvee ($20.99) Bosnia & Herzegovina From the producer: "Indira Bayer, originally from the Former Yugoslavia, immigrated to the United States in 1996. Since becoming a US citizen, she worked seven years as an Assistant Vice President of Bank of America's Small Business Banking, six years as an Assistance Coordinator and other roles with the US Department of State in the Balkans, and a year as an Adjunct Lecturer of Accounting at the American University in Bosnia and Hercegovina. In January 2015, Indira founded Wines of Illyria, a wine import company in Austria, dedicated to bringing wines from the former Yugoslavia to European Union consumers. Her goal was to create jobs for unemployed youth in Bosnia-Herzegovina and stop the brain drain, one of the biggest issues the country was facing at that time. In addition, Indira wanted to create a positive image of Bosnia-Herzegovina and add it to the list of world’s well known wine producing counties, as the long history of wine making warrants it. In March 2016, she expanded the business to the US. Indira continues to work with both large and small wineries throughout the Balkan Peninsula sourcing and bringing to consumers premium quality wines made of native varieties: Vranac, Blatina, Plavac Mali, Zilavka, Malvazija, Posip and others. This wine is made of 90% ZILAVKA and 10% BENA, indigenous grapes of the sun washed Herzegovina region. Clean and refreshing, showing elegance and flavors of green apples, lychee and honey, scents of chamomile and verbena with a slight mineral tone. The ripe, warm flavors of apricot, star fruit and a hint of anise are coddled by juicy acidity, fine minerality and a long herbal-toned finish. Best paired with white meat dishes and seafood." From me: As most of you know, I love unusual wines from unexpected places. The Stone Cuvee is a wonderful example of indigenous wine from Eastern Europe, though the flavor profile is reminiscent of Gewürztraminer, with its distinct notes of lychee. I find this to be an elegant wine that, while ripely fruity, has a nice acid balance and mineral lift to keep it light. This is a must try. Wines of Illyria Plavac Mali ($20.99) Bosnia & Herzegovina From the producer: "This wine is made of 100% Plavac Mali, a grape variety of the Herzegovina wine region which has a Mediterranean climate and a limestone rich soil. This very tasty and elegant wine exhibits ripe pomegranate, plum and almonds, currants, and other dark red fruit flavors. Authentic, pure and very well balanced, with wonderful tannin and acidity integration. A lovely wine to pair with vegetarian dishes." From me: Let's get this out of the way: Plah-vatz Mah-lee. This wine is from the same company that makes the Stone Cuvee. This is also an indigenous grape, but one that is a little more well-known. One of Palvac Mali's parent grapes is Zinfandel, and the wine produced from it shares a dark fruit flavor profile. There is also mild spice and richness on the palate. I think this is a very elegant and interesting red. Mas Becha Roussillon ($19.99) France From the producer: "This cuvee is based on a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, which has gone through extended berry maceration to give it a more powerful structure. Depending on the vintage requirement, it is aged in oak barrels for 8 to 10 months. This period of maturation in barrel softens the tannins to their silky texture and makes for a richer structure. The color and its intensity are always relatively pronounced. This wine features a very deep violet red color with a few blue notes in its youth. The nose shows a beautiful complexity, showing its grape maturity through notes of very ripe black fruits, blueberry and blackcurrant jam, while allying the complexity obtained from its barrel aging through highlighting touches of vanilla, and elegant, lingering wood. The mouth is generous and full, and relatively well concentrated, under- lined by a touch of nerve, which raises fruity notes such as strawberries and ripe raspberries. The natural generosity from its Mediterranean origin gives a beautiful dimension and roundness in the mouth. The ageing softens its tannins, giving them a sweet dimension and making the wine explosive as well as pleasing to drink. Wine & food pairing : Its aromatic spontaneity and its generous mouth are a sensation to enchant your friends around a glass of wine, but its capabilities are just as able to rejoice your guests with beautiful meat cuts. I favor duck with a cherry jam, a long cooked lamb leg confit or simply a grilled T-bone. Serving temperature : 15 to 17°C Ageing potential : Even if the pleasure this wine gives is immediate, this cuvee offers a real ageing potential. It should delight your palate for 7 to 10 years. From me: I was lucky to welcome Charles Perez, the winemaker, to the store a few months ago. He is young and interested in making wines with little intervention that express the terroir of Rousillon in southern France. This wine is a blend of Syrah, Grenach, and Mourvedre, and it has a wonderful earthy balance to the dark red fruit tones. West Cork Distillers Glengarriff Bog Oak Cask Whiskey ($39.99)
Ireland From the producer: "West Cork Distillers’ Glengarriff Collection of Irish whiskeys are single malts aged for 4 years in sherry casks before being finished in barrels that have been charred using natural fuel sources obtained from the iconic Glengarriff Forest in Southern Ireland. Each barrel is prepared using a proprietary charring device that was hand-built by West Cork Distillers with the guidance of a local fifth-generation blacksmith. Each of these special release whiskeys delivers a unique flavor profile that embodies the innovative spirit of West Cork Distillers. Bog Oak Charred Cask: Aroma - Spice, dried leather with a sweet dried fruit undertone Taste - Intense spice, malt and cracked pepper Finish - Spice, nutmeg and long lasting malt" From me: This will be the most unusual Irish Whiskey you'll taste. There's an earthy depth to the flavor that I find really compelling, and there's more smoke than you might be used to from Ireland. I would call this the wine drinker's/Scotch lover's/cigar smoker's Irish Whiskey. Etienne Oudart Champagne--Brut Référence ($50.99)
Champagne From Thomas: "Jacques Oudart belongs without any doubt to the upcoming stars of the Champagne area. The Oudart Family has been involved in Champagne making since the late 1950’s. They own 22 acres spread mainly over 2 regions: Vallee de la Marne and the Epernay area. This is definitively a major asset as it gives Jacques the possibility to blend all 3 grape varietals and still have the influence of all the various terroirs. Jacques Oudart is very meticulous about winemaking and insists on extending his Champagne aging in order to hit the perfect ripeness when the bottle reaches the consumer. Champagne Oudart’s trademark is to create elegant and fine wines. Most of the cuvee blend uses Chardonnay for its strength, Pinot Meunier for the fruit and Pinot Noir to add personality. Bright gold color with some note of copper. On the tasting aromas of toast, brioche and hazelnuts appear. Long aromatic persistence in the mouth." From me: This Champagne is produced sustainably with minimal chemical intervention. The production is relatively small at 25,000 bottles per year. I sometimes find Champagne to be too "yeasty" tasting, but this one strikes a nice balance with the fruit and acidity. I find that it is great value for money, and it's nice to be able to support a smaller winemaker. I would much rather drink Oudart than Moët or Veuve. Nadine Ferrand Macon Solutre Pouilly ($22.99) Burgundy From Thomas: "Nadine is an amazing person and winemaker. She has an energy and determination that is rarely seen. Since 1984, Nadine has continued the family tradition of winemaking established three generations ago. Nadine took over the estate in 2000 when her husband passed away. In a very competitive environment, she managed to increase the size of the estate and bring the quality of her wines to the top, moving her to the spotlights of national television. Domaine Nadine Ferrand is 22 acres large and produces about 60,000 bottles per year on average. Growing grapes in a sustainable way, she is particularly meticulous in caring for the vines to ensure the highest quality of grapes. The estate produces a great portfolio of wines, ranging from a Macon blanc to a well renowned Pouilly Fuisse. Her feminine and elegant touch is perceivable across all her wines. The wines are usually aged 6 to 12 months in steel tanks or barrels. The influence of wood is very limited, as she wants to keep the full expression of the fruit and the terroir. Nadine is now assisted by her oldest daughter Marine, who shares the same passion for the family estate and the Maconnais wines. This wine is clear, bright with a beautiful pale gold dress and green color. The nose is fresh, mineral with candied lemon and honey aromas. This is well balanced thanks to its vivacity and its minerality." From me: Sustainably produced with limited chemical intervention, Ferrand only releases about 8,000 bottles of this Chardonnay. It is fermented and aged in stainless steel before spending an additional 6 months in the bottle before it's released. The flavor is top-notch, with an elegant mouth-feel. This wine drinks like a bottle twice its price. Chateau Haut-Blanville Grande Réserve Pinot Noir ($14.99) Languedoc From the producer: "Educated by the Burgundy model of “Climats”, we dreamed of crafting single parcel wines. Captivated by the beauty and variety of terroirs around Pézenas, a 16th Century village near to Montpellier, this is where we decided to settle. To make our dream come true, we decided in 1995 not to buy an existing Domaine but rather to create our own Wine Estate, parcel by parcel, to create single parcel wines, from vine to bottle. Today, Château Haut-Blanville is the outcome of 20 years of investment and work of a beautiful team to give our vision of origin a tangible reality by proposing a selection of cuvées revealing the personality and diversity of the terroirs of vineyards of Château Haut-Blanville. Grande Réserve is from a north facing mid-altitude vineyard in the Gres de Montpellier appellation. The limestone soil brings finesse to the wine. Grapes are destemmed and aged for 9 months in stainless steel tanks. The low yield and the appropriate harvest date give this Pinot Noir freshness and a moderate alcohol level. The nose expresses notes of spices, berries and tobacco. On the palate, the wine features soft tannins, delicate fruit and an elegant structure." From me: This is a perfect example of how you can find excellent value for money (especially in French wines) if you look at regions that are less popular. Burgundies generally fetch a pretty penny, but here you have a winemaker who is using the philosophy of Burgundian production in an appellation that has less cache, so the wine is less expensive. Languedoc is home to some great values, and recently Gres de Montpellier in particular has become a more highly regarded sub-appellation. This wine is a must-try for Pinot drinkers, and a good first Pinot for those who are new to the varietal. Clos de Cazaux Gigondas 2014 ($31.99) Southern Rhône From Thomas: "The Clos des Cazaux domaine was founded in 1905 by Gabriel Archimbaud. The Archimbaud and Vache families are among the oldest ones in Vacqueyras, dating back to 1635. The 98 acre estate is currently run by Jean Michel and Frederic Vache. The vines are cultivated with utmost respect to the environment. Only Bordeaux mixture (antifungal agent consisting of a solution of copper sulfate and quicklime) and sulfur are used in the phytosanitary (pertaining to the health of plant) and vineyard treatment. At all times, the vineyards are manually tended, including manual harvest. To ensure optimal quality, only the best grapes are selected during a green harvest in Summer which eliminates at least 20% of the production. Each grape variety is picked at its optimum maturity and vinified separately. The whole clusters are placed into specially equipped bins with a screw in the bottom that allow the grapes to fall into the tanks without any crushing. This near-carbonic fermentation period depends on the grape varieties and the conditions. The maturation takes place first in stainless steel tanks for the juice to settle, then in concrete or enamel tanks. The wines mature in the cellars for at least 2 years before bottling in order to offer the optimum ripeness to the consumer. This strong, warm wine comes from a selection of grapes on exceptional land. In fact our vineyards in Gigondas are situated on the arid hills of the Dentelles de Montmirail. The Mistral blows regularly on these slopes which limits the amount of treatment needed to the vines. The vines grow in stony fields, which is rare, and produce wine that can be kept easily for 10 yrs. Aromas of pepper, red fruits, are intense and persistent; very interesting to discover young. Its robe is steady, stable, the tannins silky, some say feminine compared to the more rustic Vacqueyras. Strong dishes such as deer and wild boar can subdue this prestigious wine. If perchance this wine is not finished with game, it remains incomparable with Reblochon, St Nectaire, and other strong cheeses." From me: If you are not familiar with wines from the Southern Rhône, you will feel lucky for this to be your introduction. If you enjoy Châteauneuf, but don't want to spend so much, Gigondas is the answer. This blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre is elegant, well-balanced, and an excellent example of the style. I am very pleased to present this wine. Cantine Monfort Blanc de Sers Brut Nature ($21.99)
Trentino From the producer: "New entry in Monfort winery, Blanc de Sers Brut Nature is a sparkling wine produced in according to Metodo Classico method: nine months on the lees obtained from the grapes Valderbara, Vernaza and Nosiola cultivated on the terraced hills of Serso and Viarago. The optimal altitude between 550 and 700 meters a.s.l., the particular acidity of these grapes and their delicate aroma combined with the right period of ageing on the lees provide a quality creamy sparkling with a fresh and enchanting bouquet. Brut nature, zero dosage or pas dosé, the choice of our sparkling wine master to make in the flûte what grapes and terroir have to say. Colour: pale yellow. Bouquet: white flowers and a hint of green apple enhanced by a touch of hay. Perlage: enhances the flavor and length. Accostamenti gastronomici Excellent as an aperitif, it goes very well with light appetizers, with dishes based on fresh water fish and seafood, soup and mushrooms." From me: I carry several wines from Cantine Monfort because they are doing a great job of making high quality wines from lesser known, indigenous grapes. This sparkling wine is elegant and delicious, and is a nice step up from Prosecco. Perfect for a toast on New Year's Eve! Querciavalle Chianti Classico Riserva ($24.99) Tuscany From the producer: "Since the year of the wine estate establishment in 1954, the Riserva Querciavalle has always been considered as one of the most representative wine of the Losi family’s production. Appreciated also by the most demanding customers for its excellent quality, this wine represents the real authentic expression of Chianti Classico appellation. Wine making: Fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature lower than 27° for about 15-20 days, which is the average suitable time for extraction from the skin of colour, polyphenols, tannins and other typical features of Chianti Classico. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine is placed in cement-vitrified tanks for the second fermentation, until the malic acid gets totally exhausted. Only at this moment, the wine will be ready for ageing in wood Aging: 24-30 months in 53 hl Slavonian oak casks Refining: an additional rest in bottles for 3-6 months before merchandising further enhances Chianti Classico aromas and flavours. Bottles produced: 15,000 Colour: brilliant deep ruby red, tending to garnet with aging Bouquet: intense, fine and charming, recalling ripen fruit, berries and vanilla; Flavour: warm and harmonious; elegant noble tannins, dry, complex and with long-lasting finish Serving Suggestions: T-bone steak, lamb, wild boar and wild game" From me: The first time I tasted this wine, I didn't have strong feelings about it. Chianti is not my favorite, so I struggle a little with choosing which to sell in the shop. The second time I tried it, I was lucky enough to be dining with Francesco and Valeria Losi (daughter of the winemaking family and head of international sales). Over several courses we tried all of the brand's wines, and when I had the Chianti Riserva paired with food (specifically pork osso bucco), it was a revelation. It's no secret that a great pairing will bring out the best of the food and the wine, but this Chianti really demands to be enjoyed with a meal. You can appreciate it on its own, but a hearty, fatty, rich dish will really let it shine. Bodegas Bleda Pino Doncel 12 Meses ($22.99) Jumilla, Spain From the producer: "Made with a selection of Monastrell and Syrah grapes from our vineyards, this wine is aged at least twelve months in select French and American oak barrels. It has great aromatic intensity, complex on the nose and balanced on the palate. It is fruity and fresh, with mature tannins that give it volume and richness, as well as a long finish. A wine that always leaves you wanting more! Monastrell (red-wine grapes with small, tightly bunched clusters) is the variety that best adapts to the conditions in Jumilla, as it needs a warm climate to ripen properly and tolerates the lack of rain very well. It ripens very well, given the ease with which both sunlight and air can penetrate its scarce foliage. The many hours of sunlight and abrupt temperature changes, with hot summer days and cool nights plus intensely cold winters with temperatures often dropping below freezing at night, give the Monastrell grapes a high concentration of essential components, allowing us to make powerful, deeply coloured wines with great structure and aromatic complexity. Monastrell vines are not irrigated and require large swaths of land, as it is a low-yield grape that is harvested by hand in a “back-breaking” process. Monastrell, in general, doesn’t need phytosanitary treatment, as it is highly resistant to cryptogams. The dry, arid climate of the region also helps in this regard. So, we can grow the grapes organically without any of the much-feared infestations vines are prone to in damper areas. Color: deep cherry. Aroma: Sweet spice, ripe fruit. In mouth: Complex, ripe tannins, long finish." From me: If you are a California Cab or Old Vine Zin drinker, try this wine. It's big and bold, smooth on the palate, rich, and long-lasting. This wine is more elegant than others that I've had from the area, perhaps due to the addition of the Syrah, which gives it some backbones and keeps it from being a fruit bomb. Goretti L'Arringatore ($41.99) Umbria From the producer: "60% Sangiovese, 30% Merlot and 10% Ciliegiolo MATURATION: about 14/16 months in barrique REFINING: about 12/14 months in bottle AGEING POTENTIAL: 10 or more years depending on the vintage COLOUR: intense ruby red with violet hues BOUQUET: complex and very intense, with notes of mature, exotic fruit and honey TASTE: aromatic, elegant with fine notes, long and lingering SERVE WITH: roast and grilled meats, excellent with mature cheeses and pasta dishes with tomato sauce." From me: This just landed at the shop, and I'm very excited to have another Umbrian wine to offer. L'Arringatore is bold and rich, though not really full-bodied. There's quite a bit of dark fruit balanced by firm tannins. I think a California Cab drinker will be especially drawn to this. Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2007 ($69.99) Tuscany From the producer: "A life and a passion devoted to agriculture …A life that has its roots in a strong and generous territory, the territory of Montalcino. …A life that the Fattoi family has always dedicated with absolute self-denial, enthusiasm and professionalism, to the production of wine and olive oil that have made Montalcino famous world-wide. Ageing: 4 years total, 2 in oak casks and tonneauxBottle ageing: 4 months at least Average yearly production: 20.000 bottles of 0,750 lt. Grape Varieties: 100% Sangiovese Organoleptic characteristics: Colour: The wine is visibly limpid, brilliant, an intense ruby red color, with reflections of garnet. Bouquet: intense, persistent, full and ethereal, revealing the aromas of spices, forest floor, small red fruit and rich perfumed roses. The taste: The wine is elegant, harmonious, with long aromatic persistence, balanced tannins and well rounded, with a dry and persistent finish Serving Temperature: 18° C. It is advisable to uncork the bottle at least 2 — 3 hours before serving. The wine benefits from being decanted in order to aerate the wine. Serve in crystal balloon glasses. Recommended food accompaniment: Red meats, game, mushroom and truffle dishes, aged cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano and Tuscan Pecorino. An excellent wine for meditation." From me: The pricing on this wine reflects that it is a 2007 (a very good vintage for Montalcino), but at the same time, the age and quality make this a fair bargain. This wine is approachable now, but will drink well over the next five years, though I am partial to opening now and enjoying it! Elegant, soft tannins prevail, but there is enough structure here to balance the dark red fruit and mild baking spices. A subtle earthiness underlies the fruit. This is a beautiful wine. |
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June 2019
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