Terre del Fohn Müller Thurgau ($12.99)
Trentino From the producer: "Named after the grape variety form which it comes and which was bred by the Swiss researcher Doctor Hermann Müller in 1882. This is a white-grape variety which comes from the crossing of Riesling with Madeleine Royal. It is adaptable to the cold climate of mountain areas and ripens early. For these reasons cultivation is widespread in Trentino, where it has found an ideal habitat on the slopes at an altitude of 500-700 metres a.s.l. where the microclimate conveys special organoleptic qualities to a 'high-flying' wine. TASTING NOTES Colour: pale yellow with greenish tints. Bouquet: fruity and floral with notes of sage, slightly aromatic. Palate: dry and pleasantly acidulous. FOOD MATCHING Elegant starters, fish, first-courses with vegetable and seafood. It is exceptional as aperitif. Well structured." From me: As most of you know, I like to introduce you to lesser-known wines, and this varietal is certainly one of them. This is a mineral, light, bright wine that has undertones of green fruit. It's tart, but has low acidity, so it's not cheek-puckering. If you like Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc, I suspect you will like this wine. Nifo Sarrapochiello Falanghina del Sannio ($12.99--was $14.99) Campania From the producer: "Rooted in Campania for three generations, the winery Nifo Sarrapochiello is located in Ponte, a small town in the Sannio, a pleasant place, already existing in Roman times, which owes its name to the presence of an imposing "pontem lapideum" on which the Via Latina passed that connected Rome to Benevento and thanks to which the Romans supplied themselves with wine and grapes of the highest quality. Winemaker for passion and cultural heritage is the young owner, Lorenzo Nifo Sarrapochiello, who has decided to combine respect for tradition and scientific innovation, in order to ensure the company the high quality standards that have always been pursued. In fact, since 1998, the Nifo Sarrapochiello grapes are grown and treated with the organic farming method ( bioagricert control organism ). After a strictly manual harvest, the grapes are transformed with production standards that protect the environment and the health of the consumer: this results in perfumed wines, intensely aromatic and with a great personality. Pale straw-yellow wine with aromas of pear, banana, aromatic herbs, yellow flowers and sweet spices. Taste is very delicate and elegant, persistent. A perfect match with fish steaks, white meat and aged cheese." From me: Falanghina is one of Italy's better known whites, and is an ancient varietal. This wine is a must with seafood, though it would go well with poultry and pork. Elegant, long finish with ripe fruit undertones. Cantine Monfort Terre del Föhn Marzemino ($12.99) Trentino From the producer: "The Marzemino grape occupies a prominent place in the wine growing world in Trentino thanks to its excellent quality. The origins of the vine are lost in history but it is likely that it comes from Marzemin, a village in Carinthia. Currently Marzemino is cultivated in particular on the right bank of the river Adige and, especially in the foothills of Nomi, Pomarolo, Isera and Mori. In the Vallagarina the variety has found ideal soil and climate conditions which lend it its unmistakable organoleptic characteristics. To distinguish it from other similar wines it is called 'Marzemino Gentile' where 'gentile' (gentle) is justified by the matchless delicacy of the wine. WINE MAKING METHOD Brief red wine fermentation on the skins, malolactic fermentation and refining in stainless steel vats. Brief ageing in bottle. TASTING NOTES Colour: bright ruby red . Bouquet: delicately fruity (fruits of the forest) with floral notes of sweet violet Palate: dry, harmonious, pleasing for its fruity notes and slight almond finish. FOOD MATCHING First courses with meat sauces, white meats, poultry, cheeses. This wine is famous for its fruity taste. It is an indigenous wine mentioned in the Opera 'Don Giovanni' of Mozart." From me: I'm really into indigenous grapes and wines that are off the beaten path, so for me this is a really compelling one. It drinks a bit like a Pinot Noir in that it's light-bodied and brightly fruit-forward. I think at $12.99 it's a great alternative to Pinot, but it also stands on its own as a cool climate red. Organic. Cantine Monfort Teroldego Rotaliano ($19.99) Trentino From the producer: "This wine is unanimously considered the prince of Trentino wines. The vine is native to Trentino and the wine shares certain biochemical characteristics with Marzemino. It takes its name from a village near the town of Mezzolombardo called Teroldeghe. The fundamental characteristic of this variety is that it grows and gives its best only in the Piana Rotaliana area whose soil is the result of alluvial detritus deposited by the River Noce. WINE MAKING METHOD Traditional red-wine fermentation on the skins, malolactic fermentation and refining first in stainless steel, then in bottle for some months. TASTING NOTES Colour: intense ruby red with purple highlights. Bouquet: intense, fruity with blackberry and bilberry notes. Palate: full, warm with a rounded softness. FOOD MATCHING Roasted red meats, grilled meats and strongly flavoured cheeses." From me: Teroldego is a fairly obscure indigenous grape, and when you find it, it's rarely as a 100% varietal. This wine is medium bodied, with a racy acidity that comes from the cooler climate in which the vines grow. The flavor profile is somewhere between Pinot Noir and Gamay, but with more depth.
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All wines from Hermann J. Wiemer on Seneca Lake, NY:
"Located in the heart of the Finger Lakes Wine Country, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard stands on the western shores of Seneca Lake. The New York State winery – producing approximately 17,000 cases each year – was designed in 1982 by an award-winning team of Cornell architects. Enclosed within the shell of a 90-year-old scissor-trussed barn, the structure accommodates a full wine production area and tasting facility. Its unique white cathedral-like interior balances the bare wooden walls and sleek Italian stainless steel tanks. Our winemaking processes pay homage to the ancient winemaking tradition and winemaking history of Hermann’s ancestry while incorporating the best of modern practices. We craft our wines in very small lots to focus on subtle differences between site blocks within vineyards and even clones within varieties. We utilize up to 25 different fermentation tanks within the winery to isolate vineyard sections and pickings dates to best showcase the varietal’s characteristics. Our small lot production allows for more control of the final product and is extremely labor intensive. Our signature long fermentation on indigenous yeast is made possible by the ecologically balanced viticultural methods in our vineyards. We seek lower and balanced yields per vine, ensuring healthy vines that reflect the character of the soils in which they are deeply rooted." Dry Riesling "Our signature Riesling is vibrant and aromatic, featuring the distinctive minerality that has become our trademark. Fragrant essence of spring blossoms sets the stage for a succulent palate of early fruit, balanced with a refreshing crispness, revealing the true qualities of the Riesling grape. A brilliant texture carries into a lingering finish, in a wine that accommodates a wide range of food. Food Pairing: Asian cuisine, Poultry, Shellfish" Dry Gewurztraminer "This wine draws from a 1967 plot in our Josef Vineyard, one of the oldest plantings of vinifera in the region, which produces grapes with exceptional depth and maturity. Much like Riesling, Gewürztraminer is a strain that is ideally placed in the cool climate of the Finger Lakes. Vivid, flowery aromas, accompanied by hints of fruit and spice showcase the distinctive characteristics of the varietal. Limited skin contact during fermentation fully accentuates these traits while producing a lean and focused style. A vigorous play of fruit and spice leads into a long, zesty finish, a perfect accompaniment to earthy or spicy food. Food Pairing: Asian Cuisine, Pork, Aromatic Cheeses" Chardonnay "Chardonnay is a cornerstone varietal at Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard. Hermann first planted these vines in 1978 and produced an estate Chardonnay every year from 1981 onward. Those vines are still in production in our HJW Vineyard, providing mineral and acid backbone. Aged in stainless steel and barrel, the result is a lean wine with a broad mid-palate and clean finish." Tres Palacios ($12.99)
Chile From the producer: "This is a nice golden yellow wine. The nose is filled with ripe tropical fruit such as pineapple, mango and banana. The mouth is nice and fruity with fresh acidity and some mineral notes. It is mouth-filling, tasty, with good acidity due to the maritime influence, and long-lasting. It is ideal as an aperitif and to accompany salmon, sea-bass, white meats and Chinese food." From me: Chilean wines represent great values across the board. This Chard has nice fruit that is well balanced by both judicious oak aging and a maritime climate. Excellent wine for the money. Mer Soleil Silver ($21.99) Monterey, California From the producer: "Never seeing the inside of an oak barrel, our Mer Soleil Silver is a pure, clean expression of Chardonnay. Our wine is fermented and aged in a combination of stainless steel and small concrete tanks that are imported from Burgundy, France. We keep fermentation temperatures stable while allowing a small amount of oxygen contact. The result: enhanced flavor development that is similar to aging in an oak barrel - but without the oak. A pale yellow hue, the wine is well balanced with Fair in color and fresh from start to finish, the 2014 vintage opens up with aromas of flower blossoms, crisp pears and a hint of honeysuckle. Bright citrus evokes the clean taste of Meyer lemons, which grow amidst our estate vineyards, where a portion of this wine is sourced. On the palate, the wine is round and layered, with an acidity and depth that belie its unoaked character. The finish brings a lingering freshness that creates a perfect complement to salads, grilled seafood, tomato-based dishes and fresh oysters - and leaves a brightness in the mouth that leaves you wanting another sip." From me: I prefer concrete aging over other methods, because while micro-oxoidation can occur, developing the flavor and body of the wine, it picks up no flavors from the oak. You get a beautiful expression of the grape itself. If you haven't had an unoaked Chard, or if the ones you've had lacked character, do try this wine. Copain "Tous Ensemble" ($27.99) Sonoma Coast, California From the producer: "Perched on a hillside overlooking the bucolic Russian River Valley, Copain specializes in vineyard designate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. Founded in 1999, Copain, meaning ‘friend’ or ‘buddy’ in French, embodies our philosophy that wine enhances life’s most joyous occasions, and is an experience best shared with friends and family. Sourced from cool climate vineyards in Mendocino County, the Anderson Valley and the Sonoma Coast, the Copain portfolio consists of three distinct collections—Tous Ensemble, Les Voisins, and the vineyard designate wines. These wines have been long inspired by France’s Rhone Valley wine region resulting in Copain’s signature style of restrained, and elegant wines. Floral aromatics of honeysuckle, jasmine, white blossom, and pineapple mix with lively acidity, Fuji Apple and Asian Pear flavors." From me: Copain was one of the wineries that I was lucky enough to visit last winter, and they could not have been more welcoming. The view over the valley was magnificent, and I was treated to a delicious wine and food pairing. "Tous Ensemble" is actually the company's entry-level wine, so its quality should give you a sense of the winemaker's skill. I think this is a lovely Chard, and one that really offers a sense of terroir of the Sonoma Coast. This is an example of restrained use of oak in order to elevate, rather than to overwhelm the grape. H. Blin Brut Champagne ($39.99)
Marne Valley, France From the producer: "Champagne H. BLIN embraces the Art of Champagne while remaining true to its remarkable character and style. Located in Vincelles, in the middle of the Marne Valley, Champagne H. BLIN primarily uses one of the most amazing varieties of the region: the Pinot Meunier. This variety offers a unique and surprising taste with subtle freshness and fruitiness. BLEND : 80% Pinot Meunier 20% Chardonnay VINIFICATION: Dosage 8 g/l Disgorged 3 months minimum before delivery Bottle age: 24 months minimum TASTING NOTES : Appearance : Golden straw, sparkling clear and transparent. Abundance of fine but persistent bubbles. Nose : Lively and expressive. Scents of citrus freshness and nuances of freshly baked bread. Palate : Simple and elegant. Lively aromas of ripe green apples and notes of toasty brioche. FOOD PAIRING : Daily aperitif Tomato salad Risotto with parmesan Sweet and sour pork Vanilla ice cream" From me: This Champagne is truly unique in its blend of grapes, and it drinks like a wine twice its price. The farming methods are organic, and the aim of the producer is to create a sense of terroir with their wines. This is not the approach of large producers like Veuve and Moët, which source grapes from all over the region of Champagne. The grapes for this Champagne come only from the area around the village of Vincelles. Scarbolo Il Ramato Pinot Grigio ($19.99) Friuli, Italy From the producer: "Since the birth of the winery, Scarbolo’s philosophy has been very clear: contribute to a wine culture surpassing easy generalizations and fast trends that don’t belong to the world of farming. They have consciously invested in the Grave area of Friuli that for a long time has been considered only capable of ‘quantity’ wines, despite its amazing soil characteristics. Valter Scarbolo inherited a passion for the vine from his father’s interest in viticulture. They planted their first vineyards in the 80s, in their hometown of Lauzacco. Lauzacco is located in Friuli on the right bank of the river Torre, just south of the Colli Orientali. The Scarbolo family puts immense effort into the vineyards in order to produce structured and elegant wines that represent the distinct characteristics of their native land. Their philosophy includes densely planting the vines and rigorously implementing sustainability practices to help preserve the ecosystem. Made in the Friulian “Ramato” style, this wine is bright copper in color, with a nose exhibiting apple, wildberries and fresh citrus. Generous and fresh but with a lasting finish." From me: You know that thin, nearly clear, one-note Pinot Grigio that's mass-produced? This is not that. This is, aesthetically, an "orange wine," which refers to the color that comes from elongated skin contact during the maceration process. While some orange wines can be a little funky, this one retains its freshness, mellowed slightly by lees aging, which also gives it a little richness on the palate. This is an elegant and interesting wine that will give you a new perspective on Pinot Grigio. Schiopetto Malvasia ($19.99) Friuli, Italy From the producer: "Malvasia Istriana is one of the historic varietals of the hills of Friuli. It grows well in poor soil of marl composition with hot and sunny exposition where the grapes are left for a lengthy maturation. They are then picked by hand, pressed at low temperatures. This is followed by a static decantation in absence of sulphur dioxide and the vinification and ageing take place in stainless steel for 8 months. The wine thus obtained is rich and complex but at the same time fragrant and aromatic. Bright straw yellow with golden touches. Fresh and round balance marine aromas that are perfectly balanced with scents of flowers and sweet fruits. Creamy, rich and warm. Sweet flavors are matched by a refreshing palate with a clean high acidity finish. Food pairings: Perfect with apetizers and first dishes, both with fish and meat." From me: This is one of the many Italian indigenous grapes with which I've become slightly obsessed. I'm especially keen to have more people taste Italian whites that aren't as well known as the standards. There is so much elegant and complex white wine, and this is certainly an example of that. This would be perfect for a Thanksgiving meal. Domaine les Evigneaux Rasteau 2016 ($22.99) Southern Rhône Valley, France From the producer: "Origin: Benoit and Frederic Lavau have always been fans of Rasteau which became a cru in 2010, and they have been making it for many years. Because of their special fondness for these vineyards whose outstanding exposure they recognize and which they consider to be 'atypical,' they decided to acquire 10 ha in the appellation in 2014. their 12 plots are located in Rasteau’s most emblematic terroirs. these are ideal vineyards for their plans to create a wine capable of delivering all the complexity and power of this extraordinary AOC. Terroirs: The Syrah vines are planted in the gravel and clay soil of the Quaternary terraces of Bellerive. Located in the south of the appellation, these are sunny and early ripening, providing the vines with perfect growing conditions. The Grenaches are planted to the north in cooler soil, accentuating the variance between day and night time temperatures and thereby enhancing the colour and aromatic intensity of the varietal. the pebble and gravel soil mixed with complex clay allows constant, even drainage and water supply. 'The nose is complex and of great depth, a mixture of blackcurrant, raspberry and vanilla extract. The palate is meaty and develops its intensity and power across the entire length of the wine. The tannins are robust and well integrated, promising a spectacular result after 3 to 5 years’ cellar ageing (if you can wait that long!).'" Blend: Grenache 50% Syrah 30% Carignan 10% Mourvèdre 5% Cinsault 5% Ageing: 12 months in new 228L barrels" From me: I've never met a Southern Rhône wine that I didn't like, and if pressed I admit that the region is, globally, my favorite. Rasteau is an appellation with which I was unfamiliar, so I was eager to try this wine. The blend of grapes is typical to the larger region, but the soil and exposure lend unique traits. This Rasteau shows some boldness of flavor, but its complexity makes it compelling. It's a wine to contemplate for a bit as you taste it. You can certainly enjoy it now, but do consider buying a bottle to lay down for a couple of years. Alois Trebulanum ($34.99) Campania, Italy From the producer: "Classification: Terre del Volturno IGT Grape varietal: Casavecchia 100% Production area: Pontelatone (CE/Italy) The Casavecchia grape variety has a mysterious origin. There is an old country legend that narrates the discovery of a small grape vine in a 'casa vecchia' that means 'old house' in the township of Pontelatone. This vine survived the epidemic times of the Phylloxera and the parasite fungus of Oidio dated 1851. Casavecchia has extraordinary qualities and it is currently studied in the agricultural faculties of the University of Naples and Florence. There are also some hypothesis that see the Casavecchia as the wine Trebulanum, praised by the Latin writer Pliny in his famous Historia Naturalis (Natural History) as a wine that came from vineyards on the hills surrounding the old town of Tremula Balliensis, an area that now comprehend the townships of Pontelatone, Castel di Sasso Liberi and Formicola. The propagation started with the cut and the setting of a small branches and the provine, an ancient method that places the vine branch in the soil until it develops its own roots. To the nose and the mouth, the Casavecchia gives an evocative fruity taste than only a few other fruits can give." From me: This single vineyard indigenous red is one of the most interesting wines I've yet tasted. My tasting notes on this include the word "perfect." The current vintage is 2012, and it can easily take 5-10 years of cellaring. If you want to enjoy it now, though, expect a bold tannin propping up deep red fruit and mild forest earthiness. This, to me, exemplifies Southern Italian wine at its best. JB Neufeld Yakima Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($39.99) Yakima Valley, Washington From the producer: "JB Neufeld produced its first vintage in 2008. The winery is the only of its kind in Washington, focusing exclusively on Cabernet Sauvignon within the Yakima Valley AVA. The winery was created by the husband and wife team, Justin and Brooke Neufeld. The goal of the brand is to not only showcase the diversity of the terroir found in the valley through its vineyard designate bottlings, but to use that diversity to build a more complex and balanced Cabernet Sauvignon by blending sites as well. The Yakima Valley AVA has the most diverse terroir of all the AVAs in Washington. All the vineyards are located on south facing slopes created by a series of ridges that are oriented West to East, which is a geological anomaly unique to eastern Washington. JB Neufeld's focus is to preserve not only the qualities of the wine, but also the place and time from which they were made. They aim to build a Cabernet Sauvignon that possesses multiple layers of complexity that reveal themselves as the wine opens up in the glass. JB Neufeld achieves this by having a winemaking style that is dedicated, thoughtful and precise to the terroir of their valley. The nose opens with ripe huckleberry, black currants, and blackberry jam, supported by a backdrop of fennel and basil. Balanced on the palate with ripe tannins and well-integrated acidity. Finishes bright and clean with vibrant fruit. 91% Cabernet Sauvignon 9% Cabernet Franc Aging: 23 months in 64% new French oak and 36% in neutral French oak Production: 6,000 bottles per year" From me: I'd had some good Washington Cab before tasting this, but JB Neufeld is in another league entirely. This wine is as bold as a Napa Cab with its own profile that, to me, makes it more compelling. The winemaker, Justin, has visited my shop, and he was a joy to talk to about his technique and approach to his wines. This is the entry level offering, and it drinks like a dream. Especially if you aren't familiar with Washington Cabs, try this! Scarbolo Campo del Viotto 2013 ($43.99) Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy From the producer: "An intense deep ruby red color with pomegranate hues. Ripe notes of marasca cherries, sweet tobacco, dark chocolate and ripe wild berries. Intense on the palate, with soft sweet tannins and spiced persistent finish. Grapes: 100% Merlot Fermentation: The first whole clusters harvested are dried out for about 20 days, then the fermentation occurs in small Oak Barrels. After the fermentation, barrels are sealed and the wine remains in contact with the skins until mid December. Aging: 2 Years in small Oak barriques; then 6 Months in the bottle prior to release Production: 850 Cases" From me: Another wine from Scarbolo that flips the script. Hate Merlot? Think it's an unimpressive varietal? Try this wine. From the partial raisinating of the grapes to the long aging, this takes Merlot to the next level. Elegant and rich. |
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