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.The first time I tried a dessert wine, it was a well-aged "Port" at a cellar door in Napa. I have no idea which vineyard it was, as I was not well-versed in wine at the time; I was 25, on a road trip, and all I knew was that I had to stop and try some wine while I was in that area. I randomly picked a winery, whose name I think I slightly recognized, and went through their tasting. I'm sure everything I tried was pretty good, but I only remember the Port because I was so surprised that I liked it. I had anticipated that it would be too syrupy-sweet, but it was full-bodied, with deep fruitiness that perfectly paired with the piece of dark chocolate that the attendant offered. This experience occurred during a time when I was more interested in craft beer, so although I enjoyed it, I didn't investigate the world of dessert wine until years later. In fact it was just last year, while working at The Thirsty Owl, that I had another Port-style wine that knocked my socks off. Not only was the flavor profile gorgeous, I really enjoyed the custom of sipping the wine from the beautiful little glass in which it was served. I was watching a lot of Downton Abbey at the time, and I really began to appreciate those scenes after dinner in which the characters took a digestif. This is still the way many people around the world finish a meal, but it is not as popular in this country. As I prepared to open Sage, I made a point to try more dessert wines, and somewhere along the way, I decided that my pet project would be to introduce as many customers as possible to them. Dessert wines fall into several different categories: fortified wines (Port, Sherry), wines made with raisinated grapes (Vin Santo), ice wine (often found in New York wineries), noble rot (Tokaji, Sauternes), and late harvest wines. The idea behind all of them is the same: to produce a wine that retains the sugar content of the grape, whether from stopping the fermentation process prematurely, drying the fruit, or letting the grapes stay on the vine for a longer time. The results are very different, though, depending on technique and types of grapes used, and although I don't dare make universal claims, I suggest that there is a style for almost every palate. I must note, too, that not all dessert wines are sweet (Fino Sherry, for instance), though most have some degree of residual sugar. Well-crafted dessert wines should not be syrupy or cloying, but should showcase the sweetest possibilities of the grapes from which they are made. Depth of flavor and fruitiness, not sugar, should shine through and delight your palate with a delicate touch, not a harsh blow. Even fortified wines, with their higher alcohol content, should not seem “hot” or overpowering. The ideal is a seamless, full-bodied sweetness that also reveals complexity. While dessert wines can be enjoyed with sweets, they needn't be; they go nicely with fruit and cheese plates at the end of the meal or they can even be sipped as an aperitif. For those of us who avoid dessert foods, dessert wines are a delicious way to end a meal with a satisfying sweetness that isn't so filling. As the weather cools and the snow starts to fall, I am as likely to sip a Port or Tokaji as I am to swirl a nice whiskey in front of the fire. I invite you to join me in exploring the variety and versatility of dessert wines. Happy Drinking! Here are links to some more information: winefolly.com/review/types-dessert-wine/ www.eater.com/drinks/2015/11/12/9721534/dry-dessert-wine-madeira-port-sherry  They enjoy Port upstairs AND downstairs. Screengrab PBS
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Gruber Röschitz Grüner Veltliner ($16.99)
Austria From the producer: "This wine has a crystal clear taste. The spicy and vivid Grüner Veltliner awakens the (Wine) Spirits. Gentle hints of apple in the nose with aromatic peppery notes." From me: Grüner Veltliner is likely an indigenous grape to Austria, and accounts for nearly one third of the country's plantings. It can produce fresh wines meant to be drunk young, and fuller-bodied wines that can take quite a bit of age and develop characteristics similar to Burgundian Chardonnay. This particular Grüner is very refreshing and dry, but it also has elegance and complexity. The current vintage will drink well for the next 2 years or so. Gianni Gagliardo Fallegro Langhe Favorita ($17.99) Italy From the producer: "Our family cultivates our own vineyards in the villages of La Morra, Barolo, Monforte, Serralunga and Monticello d'Alba, using the natural methods of integrated agriculture. We vinify and refine respecting the traditions, looking for finesse and elegance. Fallegro was born in 1974 and it’s one of the first wines made from Favorita grapes. It’s the Piemonte version of Vermentino grapes, the only one grown far from the sea in a continental climate which gives lot of character and makes it fresh and fragrant. Ideal as an aperitif and easily served with food." From me: A nearly forgotten grape, most Favorita grows on the left bank of the Tanaro River in northwestern Italy, but some, like in this wine, comes from the right bank. The wine is fruit-forward and smooth, with a medium body. It is very drinkable, though it will pair well with food, and in particular with hard cheeses. Gagliardo is the premier producer of Favorita. Tintonegro Cabernet Franc ($14.99) Argentina From the Producer: "Sourced from the Los Chacayes district in Mendoza’s high altitude Uco Valley, this wine is meant to showcase the intensely floral and mineral style of Cabernet Franc in the Uco Valley’s high altitude, limestone driven soils. Perfumed violet aromatics, bright red fruit flavors, supple texture and a bright, mineral finish – limestone driven Cabernet Franc. The wine is aged for 9 months in French oak, 5% new." From me: Cabernet Franc is (with Sauvignon Blanc) the parent grape of Cabernet Sauvignon, and though it is often used in red blends (Bordeaux), it is also made into varietal wine in the Loire Valley (Chinon) and in the New World (including the Finger Lakes and Long Island). This is a departure for Tintonegro, which has mainly concentrated on Malbecs, but it is a welcome addition to their line. I love Argentinian wine, and I love Cab Franc, so this is a winner for me. It is medium bodied, with excellent fruit flavor on the mid-palate and a stony balance. Slightly earthy and quite smooth. Hecht & Bannier Languedoc Blanc ($11.99)
France From the producer: "Our Languedoc Blanc is a blend of two southern varietals which complement each other: Piquepoul Blanc and Roussanne. Bordering the Etang de Thau, they have the benefit of relatively cool terroirs on which vines “stare” at the sea. This mild maritime influence, throughout the summer, enables to preserve acidity in the fruits. Both varietals being late ripening grapes, they fit the Mediterranean climatic conditions. They allow the aromatic flavors preservation until the harvest at the end of September or early October for some Piquepoul. The Piquepoul Blanc brings this crunchy and vivid character, which, blended with the Roussanne citrus fruits and white flowers notes, complete perfectly the aromatic palate and give us a delightful volume in mouth. Perfect for aperitif between friends, our Languedoc Blanc will accompany tapas, seashells and fish from the very close Mediterranean Sea." From me: White blends tend to get less attention than their red counterparts, so I'm hoping to introduce folks to this lovely wine. It is actually 50% Piquepoul Blanc, 25% Roussanne, and 25% Grenache Blanc. The Grenache adds a little more body and balances out the acidity of the wine. A medium/light bodied white, this wine is perfect for fall, and though it pairs well with seafood, it will also go nicely with roasted or grilled fowl. Domaine Bousquet Merlot ($10.99) Argentina From the producer: "Deep violet with reddish tints. Aromas of ripe cherry and blueberry with notes of chocolate and sweet spice. Generous texture and a core of concentrated red berry fruit flavors laced with touches of coffee and toast from light oak ageing. A long and persistent finish with soft and velvety tannins. Ideal with red meats, sauces, cheese and pasta dishes." From me: Sadly, the movie "Sideways" encouraged a national snubbing of Merlot in favor of Pinot Noir. Recently, though, Merlot is back in the game, and I am happy to be recommending this one from Argentina. Like any wine (even Pinot!), some Merlot is well-made and some is not . Domaine Bousquet makes an easy-drinking, lightly oaky, medium-bodied wine that is versatile for food pairing. It's an enjoyable quaff that shows how South American wines tend to over-deliver for their prices. Green Truck Cabernet Sauvignon ($13.99) California From the producer: "Our Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are organically grown and farmed on Mendocino County vineyards by the Barra family who've been devoted to organic farming long before it was fashionable. Organic farming requires a commitment to a method of farming that eliminates dependence on chemical fertilizers and toxic fungicides and insecticides in favor of natural practices that protect the health and safety of our farm workers, create a thriving wildlife habitat, result in clean run-off and healthier soils for our future. Even better, these practices result in delicious wine. The grapes are certified by the California Certified Organic Farmers; one of the most consumer recognized and trusted seals in the organic marketplace. Our organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon has a brilliant red hue. Silky and supple cherries and fresh wild berries weave together with soft dry tannin for a balanced finish" From me: Green Truck is a great go-to Cab that is delicious on its own or paired with a meal. It is on the lighter side for the varietal, and the alcohol is lower (13.5%) than most California Cabs. Although there is some tannin, it is a very approachable and drinkable wine. Tormentoso Mourvèdre ($12.99)
South Africa From the producer: "Mourvèdre is fairly rare in South Africa, only a handful are bottled as single varietals. This temperamental grape thrives on the Koopmanskraal farm in Agter-Paarl. The un-irrigated, ten-year-old block produces intensely concentrated, very small bunches with pea-sized berries. The soils impart soft spice and minerality that makes this wine so exciting and unique. A complex, layered wine; the nose of berry fruit is complemented by fynbos and soft spice aromas, while the palate layers flavours of cloves, leathery spice and red fruit. The elegant finish is dry and savoury. Ideal with hearty country food, beef loin and roast red meat dishes." From me: Mourvèdre (also called Monastrell) is commonly used as a blending grape in French Rosés, Côtes du Rhônes, and new world "GSMs" (Grenach/Syrah/Mourvèdre), but I love it as a varietal wine. Tormentoso Mourvèdre shows a pleasant spiciness propped up by a medium tannin. The wine is dry and on the lighter side of medium-bodied, but its solid structure can still hold up to red meat. The wine's earthiness would certainly complement rabbit or a hunter's stew. Tres Palacios Sauvignon Blanc Reserve ($10.99) Chile From the producer: "The nose is fruity with aromas of tropical fruit like pineapple, lime and grapefruit. It is also fresh and herbaceous, with an intense pear perfume. The palate is fresh, lively, and tasty with good acidity due to the maritime influence. Also, the presence of minerals in the soil gives a good balance to the wine, resulting in a lingering, fresh and mouth watering Sauvignon Blanc." From me: I have come to really like Sauvignon Blanc from Chile. The grapefruit flavor is milder than it tends to be in New Zealand Sauv Blancs, and there seems to be a bit more earthiness to balance the citrus. This is a great wine to pair with fish dishes, including sushi. This is definitely a four-season white. Clancy's Red Blend ($15.99) Australia From the producer: "Clancy’s Red is a pure Barossa wine: a collaboration of winemakers and growers who believe in making honest wines that punch above their weight. A blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Shiraz, this wine is soft and supple and full of juicy flavour. Easy drinking and great value: the simple promise from an Australian legend. A deep cherry red colour leads to a bouquet showing blackcurrant from the Cabernet, vibrant red fruits from Shiraz and Merlot and charry oak in the background. The palate shows rich plummy bright red fruits, and long, savoury tannins adding complexity." From me: It's getting to be that time of year when we crave a little warmth from the inside. This wine definitely provides that. Smooth, full-bodied, easy to drink, and luscious, Clancy's is sure to bring a blush to your cheek on a cool autumn evening. This is everything you could want from an Australian red. |
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