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Sage Advice
Questionable wit & wisdom from the bottom of the bottle

Last Week's Tasting Notes (12.28.19)

1/10/2020

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​Les Vignobles de Jacques Blanquette de Limoux ($15.99)
Limoux, France
From the producer:
"Blanquette de Limoux was created in 1531 in the cellars of the Benedictine Saint Hilaire Abbey when a monk discovered that the wine that he had bottled and carefully corked formed bubbles, after a second fermentation. The first sparkling wine in the world had just been invented in this splendid abbey.

Known as BLANQUETTE for the fine white coating which forms on its leaves, the Mauzac of the Blanquette appellation is the traditional grape variety of the Limoux vineyard. It distinguishes itself by its aromas of green apple, acacia flowers and apricot with toasted nuances. This Blanquette is perfect as an aperitif or with an entrée like marinated salmon.
Grapes : 90 % Mauzac, 10% Chardonnay

We realize that protecting the landscape is very important as well as respecting the biological diversity and we always tried to minimize the treatments. For each of our vines we apply the method of reasoned agriculture by observing the vineyard every day and with the help of a professional technician we know how to use treatments only if it’s really necessary. On the other hand we choose only products that help in protecting the soil : for example we only use organic fertilizer."

From me:
I love the idea that this is the original sparkling wine in France, but that it's a fraction of the cost of Champagne. This Blanquette de Limoux is one more wine in the shop that represents my interest in indigenous varietals and in winemakers who seek to explore older styles and techniques. The wine is fresh, bright, and perfect for a New Year's toast.

Champagne Rene Marie Catel Blanc de Noirs ($34.99)
Champagne, France
From the importer:
"Varieties : Pinot Noir 100%
Viticulture: Sustainable
Vinification : Traditional
Aging Bottle: 24-month
Tasting notes:
Radiant nose, revealing white-fleshed fruits (apple, pear, peach white), citrus (lemon) and floral nuances. Ample in the mouth, combining generosity and subtlety. Full, fresh and crisp.
​
Coming from families who have been growing grapes in Champagne since 1710, René and Marie-Noelle Dautel started producing their own champagne in 1971. Sylvain Dautel, their son, is now in charge of the vineyard located in Loches-Sur-Ource, a small village in the heart of Côte des Bars. Sylvain is perpetuating the tradition of his ancestors, using environmental friendly practices to create the most delicate, yet intense Champagnes. Cuvée René-Marie Catel is a rare Brut Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir), aged for two years on lees before disgorgement." 

From me:
This wine is incredible value for money. It's a grower Champagne (the people who own the vineyards make the wine), it's 100% Pinot Noir, it drinks like a dream, and it's under $40. This kind of bargain is very hard to find in Champagne, and it is thanks to the source of this product: Côte des Bar in the far south of the region. This used to be considered a second-rate area of Champagne, but in the last decade it has become more prominent, and a place in which winemakers aren't afraid to think outside the box. Read Wine Folly's excellent blurb about it here. 

Husch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($29.99)
Anderson Valley, California
From the producer:
"Founded in 1971, Husch is the oldest winery in the picturesque Anderson Valley. The vineyards are comprised of some of the earliest varietal plantings on the valley floor.

Sustainability at Husch is an ongoing process that began in the 1970s. At that time vineyard manager Al White became concerned with erosion on our hillsides and concluded that a no-till groundcover would solve the problem. That process of making improvements continues to this day.

Our five goals are: 1) reduce erosion, 2) conserve resources such as water and fuel, 3) protect the natural ecosystems that border our property, 4) use organic applications whenever possible, and 5) preserve the legacy grapevines on our properties for future generations.

Because these goals can be in conflict with each other we adapt our practices for each field. For example, erosion is a much bigger concern on our hillside fields. With fields closer to rivers and creeks we want to avoid chemicals - even those produced organically - that are potentially harmful to aquatic invertebrates.

As a result, we have a patchwork of practices. Some of our fields are farmed organically. Most of our fields have a permanent cover crop. All of our fields are certified "Fish Friendly." And we take pride that our farming practices, as a whole, require a minimum use of diesel fuel for each acre we farm.

The Anderson Valley is now world-renowned for its Pinot Noir grapes. Yet back in 1971 when Husch planted the first Pinot in the Valley many nay-sayers thought red grapes were a losing proposition for the region. Since that risky decision, history has proven that the warm days and cool nights of the region are near perfect for ripening Pinot Noir.

Winemaking
2017 brought a mild moderately wet winter, coupled with a warm spring and summer. Our first pick wasn’t until September 1st and we continued hand picking each vineyard block at optimum ripeness through October 6th. Almost all of our picks were scheduled for the wee hours of the morning, when the grapes are cold and covered with a touch of dew. Each batch was fermented with 20% whole clusters in small open top fermenters. The wine was gently pressed and aged 10 months in French oak barrels.

Tasting Notes
Expressive and inviting, our 2017 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir is happiness in a bottle. As soon as you pull the cork, aromas of sweet cherry, currant, rose petal, and graham cracker grace your nose. On the palate the wine expresses flavors matching the aromatics and is held together with sustained richness and bright acidity with a silky texture. Lovely on its own and will pair exceptionally with meals such as coq au vin, pork tenderloin, mushroom pasta, or creamy cheeses."

From me:
A good friend introduced Husch to me a few years ago, and I'm thrilled to bring their Pinot Noir to the shop. Anderson Valley wines are by far my favorite from California--it's a cool climate region perfect for grapes like Gewurztraminer, Sauv Blanc, and Pinot. The winemaking style, though varying by winery, is overall much more European in approach. The wines seem more reserved and nuanced, and Husch's Pinot definitely demonstrates this. I don't often choose Pinot Noir to drink, but this is one of the few exceptions.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (12.6.19)

12/10/2019

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​H. Blin Brut Champagne ($39.99)
Marne Valley, France
From the producer:
"Champagne H. BLIN embraces the Art of Champagne while remaining true to its remarkable character and style. Located in Vincelles, in the middle of the Marne Valley, Champagne H. BLIN primarily uses one of the most amazing varieties of the region: the Pinot Meunier.

This variety offers a unique and surprising taste with subtle freshness and fruitiness.

BLEND :
80% Pinot Meunier
20% Chardonnay

VINIFICATION:
Dosage 8 g/l
Disgorged 3 months minimum before delivery
Bottle age: 24 months minimum

TASTING NOTES :
Appearance : Golden straw, sparkling clear and transparent. Abundance of fine but persistent bubbles.
Nose : Lively and expressive. Scents of citrus freshness and nuances of freshly baked bread.
Palate : Simple and elegant. Lively aromas of ripe green apples and notes of toasty brioche.

FOOD PAIRING :
Daily aperitif
Tomato salad
Risotto with parmesan
Sweet and sour pork
Vanilla ice cream"

From me:
This Champagne is truly unique in its blend of grapes, and it drinks like a wine twice its price. The farming methods are organic, and the aim of the producer is to create a sense of terroir with their wines. This is not the approach of large producers like Veuve and Moët, which source grapes from all over the region of Champagne. The grapes for this Champagne come only from the area around the village of Vincelles. 

Poderi Vaiot "Franco" Arneis ($17.99)
Piedmont, Italy
From the producer:
"In 2001 after years of learning the family secrets from their father, Franco, Daniele and Walter Casetta began forging their own path in the wine world using their father’s vision as a guide. By studying, experimenting and combining passion with innovation, they have found a unique and distinctive style.

The vineyards and hills of the Roero where Poderi Vaiot is located stretch out as far as the eye can see, alternating with picturesque ravines, castles and old villages. This historic region of Piedmont straddles the provinces of Cuneo, Asti and Torino, and was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2014. 

The history of this area is inextricably linked to the important role played in its past by its namesake, the House of Roero, a noble family renowned as early as the XII century for its enterprise and power. The twenty-four small towns and villages which compose the region have remained almost unchanged and continue to live side-by-side, just as they did under the Roero family centuries ago.

Safeguarding this historic land and environment is important to Poderi Vaiot, where winegrowing traditions have always sought to establish equilibrium between man and nature. Treatments in the vineyard are limited as much as possible and carried out with the utmost care and attention. Most of the work is done by hand to preserve the land’s natural biodiversity. Many wild herbs grow in Poderi Vaiot’s estate vineyards. They are beneficial to the ecosystem and to health, and the intention is to protect them, rediscovering their uses and properties.

Fresh and delicate with fragrant chamomile and white peach on the nose. The palate follows through with flavors of lemon curd and pear balanced by vibrant acidity.

Grapes: 100% Arneis
Fermentation: Spontaneous fermentation with ambient yeasts in stainless steel tanks
Aging: 6 months on the lees in stainless steel and 2 months in bottle
Production: 30,000 bottles per year

Appearance: deep straw yellow with green hues.
Nose: fresh, delicate and tempting with a well-balanced fragrance of chamomile and white flesh fruit, an indelible remembrance of this kind of grape.
Palate: smooth and pronounced, slightly sharp for a fresh and lingering wine.
Gastronomic matching: it is excellent with the typical Piedmontese starters, cooked with white meat too. However, it also accompanies fish and first dishes, prepared with vegetable sauces, very well."

From me:
Arneis is the Italian white that I never knew I needed until I tasted it, and I hope that you love it as much as I do. It's both elegant and refreshing, fruity and floral. It's got enough body to make it a four-season wine.

Domaine les Evigneaux Rasteau 2016 ($22.99)
Southern Rhône Valley, France
From the producer:
"Origin:
Benoit and Frederic Lavau have always been fans of Rasteau which became a cru in 2010, and they have been making it for many years. Because of their special fondness for these vineyards whose outstanding exposure they recognize and which they consider to be 'atypical,' they decided to acquire 10 ha in the appellation in 2014. their 12 plots are located in Rasteau’s most emblematic terroirs. these are ideal vineyards for their plans to create a wine capable of delivering all the complexity and power of this extraordinary AOC.

Terroirs:
The Syrah vines are planted in the gravel and clay soil of the Quaternary terraces of Bellerive. Located in the south of the appellation, these are sunny and early ripening, providing the vines with perfect growing conditions. The Grenaches are planted to the north in cooler soil, accentuating the variance between day and night time temperatures and thereby enhancing the colour and aromatic intensity of the varietal. the pebble and gravel soil mixed with complex clay allows constant, even drainage and water supply.

'The nose is complex and of great depth, a mixture of blackcurrant, raspberry and vanilla extract. The palate is meaty and develops its intensity and power across the entire length of the wine. The tannins are robust and well integrated, promising a spectacular result after 3 to 5 years’ cellar ageing (if you can wait that long!).'"

Blend: Grenache 50% Syrah 30% Carignan 10% Mourvèdre 5% Cinsault 5%

Ageing: 12 months in new 228L barrels"

From me:
I've never met a Southern Rhône wine that I didn't like, and if pressed I admit that the region is, globally, my favorite. Rasteau is an appellation with which I was unfamiliar, so I was eager to try this wine. The blend of grapes is typical to the larger region, but the soil and exposure lend unique traits. This Rasteau shows some boldness of flavor, but its complexity makes it compelling. It's a wine to contemplate for a bit as you taste it. You can certainly enjoy it now, but do consider buying a bottle to lay down for a couple of years.

Alois Trebulanum ($34.99)
Campania, Italy
From the producer:
"Classification: Terre del Volturno IGT
Grape varietal: Casavecchia 100%
Production area: Pontelatone (CE/Italy)
The Casavecchia grape variety has a mysterious origin. There is an old country legend that narrates the discovery of a small grape vine in a 'casa vecchia' that means 'old house' in the township of Pontelatone.

This vine survived the epidemic times of the Phylloxera and the parasite fungus of Oidio dated 1851.

Casavecchia has extraordinary qualities and it is currently studied in the agricultural faculties of the University of Naples and Florence.

There are also some hypothesis that see the Casavecchia as the wine Trebulanum, praised by the Latin writer Pliny in his famous Historia Naturalis (Natural History) as a wine that came from vineyards on the hills surrounding the old town of Tremula Balliensis, an area that now comprehend the townships of Pontelatone, Castel di Sasso Liberi and Formicola.

The propagation started with the cut and the setting of a small branches and the provine, an ancient method that places the vine branch in the soil until it develops its own roots.

To the nose and the mouth, the Casavecchia gives an evocative fruity taste than only a few other fruits can give."

From me:
This single vineyard indigenous red is one of the most interesting wines I've yet tasted. My tasting notes on this include the word "perfect." The current vintage is 2012, and it can easily take 5-10 years of cellaring. If you want to enjoy it now, though, expect a bold tannin propping up deep red fruit and mild forest earthiness. This, to me, exemplifies Southern Italian wine at its best.
​
Poderi Vaiot Barbera d'Alba "Lupestre" ($19.99)
Piemonte, Italy
From the producer:
The Piedmontese wine par excellence, it reaches its absolute peak after 2/3 years of ageing.

Ageing: in apricot wood casks passed down through the generations.

Colour: bright, intense ruby red with purplish highlights.

Nose: delicate, ethereal, intense, expansive and persistent, featuring fruity plum, blackberry and cherry overtones, slightly spicy.

Taste: full-bodied and mouth-filling, varietal acidity, nicely balanced. The taste is dry, fresh and fragrant, very long.

Food pairings: particularly recommended with first courses, grilled or oven-roast red meat, and briefly/medium-matured soft cheeses."

From me:
This wine is new to the shop, though I've been eyeing it for a while. This is the same winery that produces the Arneis, and I think they do a spectacular job with their wines. Barbera is a little more approachable and robust than Nebbiolo, so I wanted to have this on hand for the winter. The apricot wood ageing is novel, but it does add a layer of complexity that you will not have found in other wines of the region.

Montalbera Ruché 'Laccento' 2015 ($33.99)
Piemonte, Italy
From the producer:
"The Montalbera Winery was founded at the beginning of the 20th century in the townships of Grana, Castagnole Monferrato, and Montemagno. In the mid-1980s, the Morando family began expanding their property by purchasing land in adjacent territories and planting it with new grapevines, mainly Ruchè. Today, a continuous stretch of vineyard encircles the winery. The vineyards are planted entirely on hillsides, supplying the vines with different expositions and soils, from clay to limestone. A unique aspect that has always distinguished Montalbera in the Piedmontese winemaking landscape is that the winery sits astride two of the region’s most important winemaking zones: the Monferrato and the Langhe.

For generations, the Morando family has believed and invested in Piedmontese viticulture. For years, they have passionately dedicated themselves to the development of the native variety Ruchè.

Because of their ongoing commitment, Montalbera arises as one of the great wineries of Piedmont. The foundation of their success lies in solid, recognizable values that translate very clearly in the wines they produce. Through rigor and planning, interpretation and terroir, Montalbera consistently creates 230,000 bottles per year of extraordinary quality. Each wine is interpreted in different ways, from stainless steel to wood, from overripe to withering, in order to best showcase the multifaceted personality of each varietal.

Intense ruby in red color, with slight purple notes. Extended, aromatic nose with fruity aromas of wild berry and jam. Warm on the palate, with a pleasant and rare silkiness on the finish.
Grapes: 100% Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato
Fermentation: In Stainless Steel Tanks using 95% overripe grapes, with 12-14 days of skin contact.
Aging: At least 6 Months in the bottle
Production: 54,000 bottles per year"

From me:
I tend to struggle with wines from Piemonte--well, with anything made from Nebbiolo anyway--because the lightness of the wine and the firmness of the tannin is too much for my palate. This for sure puts me in the minority of Italian wine drinkers, most of whom adore Barolo. I have been working on this weakness, and at the same time I've been exploring other grapes, including the indigenous and lesser-known Ruchè. This wine was a revelation to me: intense color, depth of flavor without too much weight on the palate, a slight jammy cranberry note, and enough structure without being overly tannic or acidic. Just a beautiful wine from an exquisite vintage.

Scarbolo Campo del Viotto 2015 ($43.99)
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
​From the producer:
"An intense deep ruby red color with pomegranate hues. Ripe notes of marasca cherries, sweet tobacco, dark chocolate and ripe wild berries.
Intense on the palate, with soft sweet tannins and spiced persistent finish.

Grapes: 100% Merlot

Fermentation: The first whole clusters harvested are dried out for about 20  days, then the fermentation occurs in small Oak Barrels. After the
fermentation, barrels are sealed and the wine remains in contact with the skins until mid December.

Aging: 2 Years in small Oak barriques; then 6
Months in the bottle prior to release
Production: 850 Cases"

From me:
Another wine from Scarbolo that flips the script. Hate Merlot? Think it's an unimpressive varietal? Try this wine. From the partial raisinating of the grapes to the long aging, this takes Merlot to the next level. Elegant and rich. This is one of the only shops in NY to have this vintage.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (11.22-11.23.19)

12/3/2019

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Flor de Penalva Dao Red ($12.99)
Dao, Portugal
From the producer:
"Harvest: 2015
Technology: Total destemming crushing, fermentation in stainless steel vats at 28-30 ° C, aging in stainless steel vats for 1 year.

Taste: Ruby color, bright appearance, clean aroma, with fruity notes, pine wood and wild flowers. In the mouth it has good freshness, body, soft tannins and pleasant finish."

From me:
This winery uses a cooperative of growers in order to get the best fruit, which in this case includes two varietals of Spanish origin and one that's indigenous to the local area. Tinta-Roriz (Tempranillo), Jaen (Mencia), and Alfrocheiro make up this blend that has a delicate elegance. This is not the bold Portuguese red that I've had--it is, as reflected in its name, a floral wine that is light/medium on the palate. This is a real value for the quality.

De Muller Aureo Dulce Anejo 1954 ($29.99)
Tarragona, Spain
From the producer:
"An exquisite sweet wine elaborated from the most selected vines of white Garnacha and red Garnacha and aged for long in oak barrels using the best solera method.

Splendid amber colour with numerous mahogany tones.

Rich, sensational, with many nuances, this sweet wine tastes very smooth, with fruity notes of prunes, raisins and figs giving us a very agreeable and warm sensation with a clear toasted aftertaste which shows us its long ageing in old oak casks.

This is the perfect wine for special celebrations and for normal days, too. Ideal with dried fruits, nougats, fresh cheese, quince, foie-gras and all dessert recipes. Sublime to be drunk alone."

From me:
This is a fortified wine, not unlike Port, but with the flavor profile closer to an Italian Vin Santo. The solera method of aging means that as bottles come off the oldest barrel, a little wine is left and blended with some from the next-oldest barrel. What that comes down to is that there's a tiny bit of the original 1954 wine in this bottle. If you love dessert wines, if you've never had one, or if you think you won't like one, please try this. It's wonderful.

Etienne Oudart Champagne--Brut Référence ($50.99)
Champagne, France 
From the distributor:
"Jacques Oudart belongs without any doubt to the upcoming stars of the Champagne area. The Oudart Family has been involved in Champagne making since the late 1950’s. They own 22 acres spread mainly over 2 regions: Vallee de la Marne and the Epernay area. This is definitively a major asset  as it gives Jacques the possibility to blend all 3 grape varietals and still have the influence of all the various terroirs.

Jacques Oudart is very meticulous about winemaking and insists on extending his Champagne aging in order to hit the perfect ripeness when the bottle reaches the consumer.

Champagne Oudart’s trademark is to create elegant and fine wines. Most of the cuvee blend uses Chardonnay for its strength, Pinot Meunier for the fruit and Pinot Noir to add personality.

Bright gold color with some note of copper. On the tasting aromas of toast, brioche and hazelnuts appear. Long aromatic persistence in the mouth."

From me:
This Champagne is produced sustainably with minimal chemical intervention. The production is relatively small at 25,000 bottles per year. I sometimes find Champagne to be too "yeasty" tasting, but this one strikes a nice balance with the fruit and acidity. I find that it is great value for money, and it's nice to be able to support a smaller winemaker. I would much rather drink Oudart than Moët or Veuve.

Domaine du Chateau de Fleys Chablis 2015 ($25.99)
Burgundy, France
From the distributor:
"Julien Philippon moved from the neighbouring Morvan region to Fleys in 1868 as a lumberjack . Gradually he bought land and vineyards that still today represent the majority of the Estate. Julien Philippon, on the advice of an old winemaker and general counselor in Chablis, was certainly the first to plant the rootstock 161-49 in 1936, vines still in production at the place called 'Les Monts de Milieu.' Since the Estate has been transmitted through the generations. Today the Estate cultivates about 55 acres on some of the best Chablis terroir, all around the central 'mont du milieu.'

An AOP Chablis that has the depth of a 1er Cru! This Chablis comes from a 4 ac 20 year old vineyard adjacent to the 1er Cru 'Les Fourneaux.' Aged 100% in stainless tank, it stays on the lees for 10 months. The vinification gives this wine the minerality of Chablis with a complex aroma structure. This Chablis has an exceptional concentration and length in mouth, which makes it a great choice for seafood,asparagus and goat cheese. It can also just be enjoyed for what it is: a great expression of Chablis!"

​From me:
​It was HARD to rid my mind of the image of a big jug of bad California wine whenever I heard the word "Chablis." I call it wine trauma. I was finally able to accept that proper Chablis has NOTHING to do with Carlo Rossi. Even so, I put off selling one for about a year, and then Thomas introduced me to this beauty. Technically this is entry-level, but it's about as fantastic a wine as you can get outside 1er Cru, and it will, I guarantee, heal any wine wounds you might have when it comes to the name "Chablis."

Clos des Cazaux Vacqueyras "Les Clefs d'Or" ($26.99)
Southern Rhone
From Thomas:
"The Clos des Cazaux domaine was founded in 1905 by Gabriel Archimbaud. The Archimbaud and Vache families are among the oldest ones in Vacqueyras, dating back to 1635. The 98 acre estate is currently run by Jean Michel and Frederic Vache.

The vines are cultivated with utmost respect to the environment. Only Bordeaux mixture (antifungal agent consisting of a solution of copper sulfate and quicklime) and sulfur are used in the phytosanitary (pertaining to the health of plant) and vineyard treatment. At all times, the vineyards are manually tended, including manual harvest. To ensure optimal quality, only the best grapes are selected during a green harvest in Summer which eliminates at least 20% of the production.

Vacqueyras is also a 'cru' since 1990. The appellation rules are very similar to those of Gigondas, and thus to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, although only half the grapes in a red Vacqueyras haf to be Grenache. The rest are usually Syrah. Mourvedre, and Cinsault. Vacqueyras may be red, white, or rose, although only a miniscule proportion of its dramatically expanded vinyard total of 1,000 ha/2,500 acres is planted with white grape varieties.

The Wine
50% Clairette, 30% Rousanne, 20% Grenache Blanc
10,000 bottles produced annually

The juice ferments naturally and its temperature is maintained at 16 C all through fermentation. This allows to obtain a pure white wine with a lively acidity. It features flavours of fennel and white flowers. The c
Clairette brings a refreshing acidity. The mouth is long and soft."

From me:
This wine is one that you really won't see often. Not only is the production quite limited, but in general white Vacqueyras is a rare find. In the U.S. we have finally embraced red blends, but white blends are still elusive, and that's a shame. White Rhone blends are particularly lovely, and can be enjoyed year-round. This wine is a fine example: it has a full, round mouthfeel, and is soft on the palate, but with just enough acidity to give it structure and character. This is something special.

Hesperian "Anatomy No. 1" 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($34.99)
Napa Valley, California
From the distributor:
"Anatomy No. 1 Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of fruit from select vineyards in Napa Valley and aged 18 months in a mix of 20% new French oak; 30% once- and 50% twice-used French oak. Anatomy No. 1 is a medium bodied Cabernet Sauvignon that has cedar, graphite, and pencil lead notes similar to French Bordeaux, but wrapped inside there is California ripe fruit qualities of blackberry, plum, fennel and baking spices from oak aging that emerge through over time. All of Philippe's wines are meant for contemplation and it pays off to experience them slowly. They are made to reflect the land and the influence nature has on the subtle nuances in tannin, aromatics, and flavor.

The Winemaker 
While at Rothschild-held Château Clarke in the Médoc, Philippe Langner worked alongside Jacques Boissenot and Michel Rolland, the man responsible for some of the world’s highest-scoring and notoriously rare clarets and Cabernets. Following a season in South Africa, Philippe returned to California — he earned his degree at U.C. Davis — spending a decade as head viticulturist and winemaker at Napa’s Sullivan Winery, while simultaneously developing Hesperian. In 2010 Philippe left Sullivan, settling into Hesperian full-time at his current 14-acre plot on Atlas Peak. Philippe Langner, under his Hesperian label, makes single-vineyard (mostly), small-lot Napa Cabs from carefully chosen sites in well-regarded areas of the valley, such as Rutherford, Spring Mountain and Coombsville, in addition to Atlas Peak where he is located."

​From me:
This is a great example of how Napa Cabs are starting to diverge from the monolithic fruit bombs that they have been. For sure there are some great wines that are big, bold, and fruity, but recently some winemakers are using a more delicate hand to craft an end product that speaks more of terroir and nuance than simple flavor profile. I think there is room for both, and I'm happy to sell this Napa Cab to show what a French influence can have over a California style. It is a lovely marriage of ripe fruit and restrained oaking that is a delight to drink.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (11.8.19)

11/12/2019

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Champagne Rene Marie Catel Blanc de Noirs ($31.99)
Champagne, France
From the importer:
"Varieties : Pinot Noir 100%
Viticulture: Sustainable
Vinification : Traditional
Aging Bottle: 24-month
Tasting notes:
Radiant nose, revealing white-fleshed fruits (apple, pear, peach white), citrus (lemon) and floral nuances. Ample in the mouth, combining generosity and subtlety. Full, fresh and crisp.
​
Coming from families who have been growing grapes in Champagne since 1710, René and Marie-Noelle Dautel started producing their own champagne in 1971. Sylvain Dautel, their son, is now in charge of the vineyard located in Loches-Sur-Ource, a small village in the heart of Côte des Bars. Sylvain is perpetuating the tradition of his ancestors, using environmental friendly practices to create the most delicate, yet intense Champagnes. Cuvée René-Marie Catel is a rare Brut Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir), aged for two years on lees before disgorgement." 

From me:
This wine is incredible value for money. It's a grower Champagne (the people who own the vineyards make the wine), it's 100% Pinot Noir, it drinks like a dream, and it's under $35. This kind of bargain is very hard to find in Champagne, and it is thanks to the source of this product: Côte des Bar in the far south of the region. This used to be considered a second-rate area of Champagne, but in the last decade it has become more prominent, and a place in which winemakers aren't afraid to think outside the box. Read Wine Folly's excellent blurb about it here. 

Jean-Marie Reverdy et Fils "La Villaudiere" Red Sancerre ($22.99)
Loire Valley, France
From the producer:
"Terroir
Planted 40 years ago, our vines are now reaching the pinnacle of their quality potential. 50% is planted in clay-limestone soil locally referred to as «Terres Blanches» and 50% in dry, stony limestone soil called «Caillotes.» Vines on all plots are disbudded and have the leaves thinned. The grapes enjoy ideal conditions for ripening in the summer. We take regular samples of grapes before the harvest to determine the optimum time for picking.

Vinification
After rigorous sorting, the grapes go directly into tank. A few days cold maceration is then carried out. The cap is kept deliberately submerged. This technique results in a light, fruity wine. The grapes are then pressed and made ready for malolactic fermentation. Following a few months’ ageing on the lees in stainless steel tanks, stabilization and clarification operations are carried out ready for bottling.

Tasting
With a strong garnet hue with crimson highlights, this wine opens with a bouquet which is a delectable blend of ripe red fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry). Supple on entry, with noticeable maturing tannins on the finish, the wine confirms the elegance of this light, fruity Sancerre on the palate.

Food matches
Food-wine matching is important. A successful pairing turns a meal into a hospitable and enjoyable occasion. Served between 12 to 14°C, this red Sancerre goes perfectly with white meat, small game or cheese."

From me:
RED Sancerre? C'est vrai! It's Pinot Noir. It's light, elegant, completely different than what you've had from California, Oregon, or even Burgundy. This is a perfect red to pair with poultry.

Château Petit Mangot Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2015 ($24.99)
Bordeaux, France
From the producer:
"Henriette and Armand, Paulette and Jean, Chantal and Jean-Yves and Nadia... These people represent the identity of Château Petit Mangot. They are the women and men in the Decamps family who over the years have made this wine they are so proud of. The history of a wine is often the history of a family. Our history is to be found in our bottles. 
'It has taken a lot of determination, stubbornness and passion to produce our special nectar, but our greatest success has been to pass on our attachment to this vineyard to our daughter. She will be at the helm of Château Petit Mangot for many years to come.'

Vine-growing methods: sustainable agriculture
Ageing potential (bottles laid down away from heat and light) of between 5 and 15 years depending on the vintage.

4 generations of know-how
12 hectares of vines
70,000 bottles a year  
50% private customers - 40% trading houses - 10% export

Appearance: Carmine red color
Nose: Nose of ripe fruit. At aeration the nose becomes thinner
Palate: Powerful notes of crushed strawberry. Silky attack, sticky tannins. Beautiful evolution. Long finish on ripe fruits."

From me:
This wine represents great value for the money. The blend is 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The tasting note above was probably more accurate upon release when the wine was a little younger. Now I would say that the tannins grip slightly less, the wine is smooth, with dark red fruit and a little earth. Really lovely and your last chance to try it. This is the end of this vintage, which was an excellent one.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (10.11.19)

10/16/2019

1 Comment

 
​Paul Mas Estate Single Vineyard Carignan ($12.99)
Languedoc, France
From the producer:
"Jean-Claude Mas, independent winemaker, fourth generation grape grower, first generation winemaker and owner of Domaines Paul Mas, is a leader in fine winemaking in the Languedoc region of the South of France. Since taking the helm of the family winery in 2000, he has prioritized sourcing the highest quality grapes from twelve privately owned estates and premier growers in the Languedoc to make wines of authenticity and refinement. The result is a collection of magnificently charming wines that burst forward with the warmth and stunning beauty of the Languedoc. Named after the original Mas family home, Château Paul Mas and Paul Mas Estate wines showcase the terroir, complexity and style of Languedoc estate superior winemaking. 

VARIETAL COMPOSITION 100% Carignan 

WINEMAKING & VINTAGE NOTES Located on the hillsides of the Hérault overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the Savignac vineyard is the ideal growing location for Carignan grapes. These mature vines, some over 50 years old, have reached a perfect natural balance. 
 
TASTING NOTES Intense deep purple color with ruby red tints. At first you smell spices and blackberry on the nose, the second nose develops underwood and cocoa aromas finishing on toasted oak notes. Full bodied rich and mellow with velvety tannins. Complex flavors on the middle palate, licorice flavors on the finish. Long lasting. Best served at 63°F. Will go well with meat pies, game and grilled red meat, beef stews, medium flavored and hard cheeses."

From me:
Paul Mas is a prolific wine producer, and some of their offerings are bigger production than I ordinarily prefer for this store. On the other hand, despite the size of the operation, the quality is high and the value is excellent. This wine is one of the smaller lots, and is meant to express terroir and to demonstrate the skill of the winemaker. Carignan is, historically, a blending grape that originated in Spain, and came to France through the Algerian wine market. Now it's found around the Mediterranean and in California, but it's still rare to see a varietal wine made from it. This particular example is well blended between juice that's been aged in oak and steel, and the result is a smooth wine with a bold flavor.

Broadside Margarita Vineyard Merlot ($15.99)
Paso Robles, California
From the producer:
"Broadside produces wines focused on purity and true varietal expression. We favor balance and simplicity, giving consumers a window to the promise of the central coast and varietal character.. Our winemaking employs a natural approach in that our wines are minimally handled to best express the grape, site and vintage. We harvest at lower sugars and use little to no new oak to create wines of balance and finesse that make sense on the dinner table. 

Vineyard Sourcing: Sourced from sustainably farmed, SIP [Sustainability in Practice] certified vineyards in San Luis Obispo County (Margarita Vineyard within the Santa Margarita Ranch AVA)

Winemaker Notes: A wet winter helped fill up reservoirs and bring new life to cover crops, then to the vines. Even temperatures throughout the growing season wrapped up in an earlier than average harvest.

Maturation: 14 months in French Oak

Tasting Notes: Vivid ruby. Cherry, cassis and succulent herbs on the fragrant nose, joined by a slowly building tobacco nuance. Plush and supple in texture, showing good depth to the lively bitter cherry and black currant flavors. A smoky note appears on the finish with velvety tannins and lingering dark berry character."

From me:
This is a big wine with bold flavor, but not made without care for the expression of the grape. Merlot is emerging from a couple of decades of perceived disfavor, and this is a nice example of why you shouldn't dismiss the grape. The winemaker's hand tends toward low intervention and elegant strength in the wine. Furthermore, the winery is dedicated to sustainable practices from vine to bottle, and their co-founder and vineyard manager, Stephanie Terrizzi, is active in the push toward "bio-organic viticulture" in the area. I'm very pleased to add this to the shop.
1 Comment

Last Week's Tasting Notes (10.4.19)

10/9/2019

0 Comments

 
​Vignoble Francois Boyer Costières de Nîmes Rosé ($13.99)
Rhône Valley, France
From the producer:
"The origins of this estate can be traced back to the 13th Century, when the Cistercian monks of the Franquevaux Abbey discovered this ideal terroir in the French countryside and proceeded to clear the forest for planting vines and olive trees.

Francois Boyer and his sister Fanny represent the 4th generation of their family to run the winery and the vineyards, continuing the family tradition of making high quality wines and growing of the legacy of this great estate.

In 2009, François began converting the 51 Ha vineyard to organic farming. They are a certified organic estate dedicated to preserving the beauty and health of this unique terroir. They also use vegan winemaking practices and minimal sulfur in producing the wines.

60% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 10% Cinsault

Clear pale pink in color with a fine nose of peach, raspberries, red currants and pomelo. Lively and full on the palate with aromas of fresh red berries.
Refreshing and expressive with a clean finish."

From me:
This wine is more complex than many of the Provençal wines that have a similar blend of grapes and light pink hue, and it has a really elegant mouthfeel with a crisp finish. Light, but with a solid flavor profile that makes this less of a porch-pounder and more of a "sipper with a light meal." It straddles the seasons, so enjoy it through the fall and into the holidays.

Poderi Vaiot "Franco" Arneis ($17.99)
Piedmont, Italy
From the producer:
"In 2001 after years of learning the family secrets from their father, Franco, Daniele and Walter Casetta began forging their own path in the wine world using their father’s vision as a guide. By studying, experimenting and combining passion with innovation, they have found a unique and distinctive style.

The vineyards and hills of the Roero where Poderi Vaiot is located stretch out as far as the eye can see, alternating with picturesque ravines, castles and old villages. This historic region of Piedmont straddles the provinces of Cuneo, Asti and Torino, and was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2014. 

The history of this area is inextricably linked to the important role played in its past by its namesake, the House of Roero, a noble family renowned as early as the XII century for its enterprise and power. The twenty-four small towns and villages which compose the region have remained almost unchanged and continue to live side-by-side, just as they did under the Roero family centuries ago.

Safeguarding this historic land and environment is important to Poderi Vaiot, where winegrowing traditions have always sought to establish equilibrium between man and nature. Treatments in the vineyard are limited as much as possible and carried out with the utmost care and attention. Most of the work is done by hand to preserve the land’s natural biodiversity. Many wild herbs grow in Poderi Vaiot’s estate vineyards. They are beneficial to the ecosystem and to health, and the intention is to protect them, rediscovering their uses and properties.

Fresh and delicate with fragrant chamomile and white peach on the nose. The palate follows through with flavors of lemon curd and pear balanced by vibrant acidity.

Grapes: 100% Arneis
Fermentation: Spontaneous fermentation with ambient yeasts in stainless steel tanks
Aging: 6 months on the lees in stainless steel and 2 months in bottle
Production: 30,000 bottles per year

Appearance: deep straw yellow with green hues.
Nose: fresh, delicate and tempting with a well-balanced fragrance of chamomile and white flesh fruit, an indelible remembrance of this kind of grape.
Palate: smooth and pronounced, slightly sharp for a fresh and lingering wine.
Gastronomic matching: it is excellent with the typical Piedmontese starters, cooked with white meat too. However, it also accompanies fish and first dishes, prepared with vegetable sauces, very well."

From me:
Arneis is the Italian white that i never knew I needed until I tasted it. This is one of several indigenous wines that I introduced to the store this season, and I hope that you love it as much as I do. It's both elegant and refreshing, fruity and floral.

Jean-Louis la Grande Réserve Côtes du Rhône ($13.99)
Rhône Valley, France
From the distributor:
"This wine is the creation of Jean Louis Canto, owner of the great Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate Domaine de la Roncière. Jean-Louis produces this “Grande Réserve” from Plan-de-Dieu, a region which now covers an area of 1,500 hectares at an altitude of 100 meters. The vines grow on a bed of red clay packed to a depth of 10 metres with a mass of smooth-rolled pebbles. Given this stony foundation, the skimpy soils yield little: some barely have enough grapes to produce one bottle of wine per vinestock. The wines are all reds, made from three of the Côtes du Rhône’s leading grape varieties: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. From this soil, they produce wines that are high in color, dense and concentrated. The nose is reminiscent of the surrounding garrigue, with scents of thyme and bay laurel.

Juicy yet structured Côtes du Rhône displaying aromas of red berries and black fruit, hints of earthy undertones and fine tannins. This wine will seduce your senses and bring a touch of elegance to hors d’œuvres, pork and roasted meats.
Grapes: 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre
Fermentation: 60% whole cluster, 40% destemmed in concrete for 18 days Aging: 12 months in concrete vats"

From me:  
This wine represents excellent value for money. Round, deep, and rich, it rolls smoothly over the palate. The balance of fruit, earth, and tannins is executed with the kind of artistry one would expect of a seasoned crafter of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is my go-to, mid-level Côtes du Rhône.

Tenute Rubino Salento Rosso Oltreme Susumaniello ($16.99)
Puglia, Italy
From the producer:
"Susumaniello, the most typical variety of the Brindisi area, in purity. It matures only in stainless steel vats allowing the primary flavours to fully express themselves. It enchants with simplicity through its fruity and spicy flavours.

Colour: Intense ruby red with purple tinges.
Bouquet: Fragrant fresh notes of red fruit: cherries, pomegranate, raspberries and mature plums.
Taste: Sapid, mineral and round, with pleasantly soft tannins.
Characteristics: A balanced and velvety wine, with an elegant texture; its harmony and persistence are truly enchanting. Its varietal notes stand out clearly.
Food matches: It goes well with savoury dishes such as stuffed aubergines and peppers, orecchiette with tomato sauce, risotto with porcini mushrooms. It pairs well with cold cuts, semi-cured cheeses and grilled meats."

From me:
As many of you already know, this is one of my favorite wines in the shop. Southern Italian wines are really up my alley; I love the full body, the rusticity, the ripeness, the earthiness, and the boldness. Susumaniello has become one of my favorite grapes, and I love that it is indigenous to the area where this wine is made. This is a must-try.

Tenute Rubino Torre Testa Susumaniello ($47.99)
Puglia, Italy
From the producer:
"Susumaniello is the grape variety which best identifies Tenute Rubino. Black grape variety of Dalmatian origin, it is named after its abundant production in the early years. This important productivity strongly decreases harvest by harvest, down to an average of less than one kilo per plant.

This is why Susumaniello was slowly abandoned by the local vintners, since the main productive philosophy was to maximise the total production. Tenute Rubino grows Susumaniello in the Jaddico estate. The vines are the outcome of an accurate selection made on a wide collection of very old plants (75 years old) espalier-trained. The limestone terrain of the estate contains a large amount of sand which allows vigorous root growth. The project kicks off in the year 2000 with the appearance on the market of Torre Testa, the first Susumaniello in purity. A red wine that remains to this day the emblem of Tenute Rubino. Just few years after its birth, Torre Testa is already considered one of the pearls of Apulian oenology. 

CLASSIFICATION Red · IGT Salento
GRAPE VARIETY Susumaniello
ALCOHOL LEVEL 15,5% vol.
ALTITUDE OF VINEYARDS Sea level
SOIL CHARACTERISTICS Sandy
HARVEST Manual, first [week] of October, with subsequent drying for 2-3 weeks.
MACERATION 16 days at controlled temperature
MALOLACTIC FERMENTATION Totally carried out
AGEING 5-6 months in steel tanks; minimum 12 months
in French oak barrique; 12 months in the bottle
PRODUCTION VINTAGE 12.000 bottles

COLOUR Dark garnet red with violet reflections

BOUQUET Clear, elegant, ethereal and complex notes of black cherries and plums in brandy, blackcurrant and blackberry jam, hints of chocolate, juniper, nutmeg, liquorice, cinnamon and ink.

TASTE Classy and harmonious, intense with a long finish, the result of strong and fragrant fruit, powerful acidity and incomparable fine tannins, noble and defined.

CHARACTERISTICS It’s a real gift from Puglia, a rare and precious wine, a milestone of the Italian oenology, firm and gentle, aristocratic and generous.

FOOD MATCHES It needs structured dishes such as pappardelle with meat sauce, grilled or roasted meat. Very good the match with seasoned cheeses such as Canestrato Pugliese DOP."

From me:
I've had my eye on this wine for two years, and just decided to introduce it to the shop. Oltreme has done so well, and so many customers have now experienced Susumaniello, that I thought it was time to take you to the next level. This is it. This represents an ideal of southern Italian winemaking, and a commitment to honoring the traditions of viticulture in Salento. This is also an excellent example of how an IGT wine can compare to a DOCG one in terms of quality. You must try this wine!
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (9.27.19)

10/1/2019

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Benoit Gautier "Argilex" Dry Vouvray ($15.99)
Loire Valley
From the producer:
"Sustainable viticulture.
Temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel vats.
Use of indigenous yeast.
Ageing in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats.

APPEARANCE : Straw yellow colour.
NOSE : Fresh, fruity, hawthorn blossom aromas, quince aromas.
PALATE : Mineral
AGING : Ageing from 2017 to 2023
FOOD MATCHES : For the aperitif, Crab, Scallop carpaccio, Fish with cream"

From me:
People often assume that Vouvray will be semi-sweet or sweet, but this is not always the case. This is Vouvray Sec, which means that it is dry. The residual sugar is at about .4%, which isn't the driest of white wines, but isn't close to off-dry (1% RS). What you do get is a lot of juicy fruit in this wine: pear, apple, and quince. The minerality and acidity keep the wine bright on the palate. This pairs well with seafood, especially oysters and sushi. It can also be enjoyed as an aperitif. Get this wine before it disappears for the season!

Handley Cellars Anderson Valley Estate Chardonnay ($24.99)
Anderson Valley, California
From the producer:
"Handley Cellars is a small family-owned winery in California’s Mendocino County. Bonded in 1982, we produce around 12,000 cases of wine a year. Our quality starts with our Estate Vineyards in Anderson Valley. 

At Handley Cellars, we offer a wide variety of wines that complement today’s diverse cuisines. Founding Winemaker Milla Handley sought to make balanced wines that possess distinctive varietal characteristics, wines that reflect the soil and climate in which they were grown.

All the grapes for this wine come from our organically farmed estate vineyard. Our new Chardonnay blocks planted in 2010 with clones 17 and 76 have come into full production adding ripe fruit characters to the blend. These newer blocks ripen about a month earlier than our old blocks that continue to add the acidity and structure the benchmark of our Estate Chardonnay. This wine shows aromas of apple blossoms, poached pear, toasted coconut, and hints of spicy oak. Flavors of pear, stone fruit, and citrus swirl on the palate. It is medium bodied with a creamy mouthfeel finishing with notes of crème fraiche and toasted almond. Approximately one-third of the blend went thorough malolactic fermentation. Aged 8 months in French oak barrels 20% new. No animal derived fining compounds were used in the production of this wine. Sterile filtered before bottling. Pair this wine with roast chicken and fettucine with chanterelle mushrooms in a cream sauce or a corn chowder."

From me:
Ever since I visited Anderson Valley in 2017, I've been eager to stock wines from that area. Unfortunately there aren't that many in the market, and the ones that are available can be a little pricier than I'd like. Meet the exception. Handley Chard is a lovely example of the cooler climate wines that I enjoyed there, the grower practices organic farming methods, the price is reasonable, and most importantly, the wine is delicious. I'm very happy to welcome it to the store.

Broadley Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2017 ($24.99)
Willamette Valley, Oregon
From the producer:
"The 1st phase of the estate vineyard was planted in 1981. Our family has been hand crafting wines since 1986.  Craig & Claudia were the founders of the winery, and their son, Morgan and his wife Jessica are the 2nd generation continuing with their passion in the wine business.  

Our estate vineyard is farmed using sustainable farming practices including using sheep to mow our vineyard's ground cover & weeds when appropriate. We also use organic material to promote healthy growth in our vines.  Sustainability is a part of our daily life and we believe it is essential for our future. 

Our goal is to consistently produce dynamic and outstanding wines that are true expressions of the place where they are grown. We want to make wines that make you stop and think. 

We believe that good wine is first made in the vineyard. At Broadley, Pinot Noir grapes are harvested from several designated blocks on the estate vineyard including, Claudia's Choice, Marcile Lorraine & the Jessica block. More Pinot Noir (and occasionally Chardonnay grapes) are sourced from hand selected vineyards that also use meticulous farming methods in order to harvest the healthiest fruit the vintage can bring.

Wooden fermenters impart unique qualities to our wine. When wine is fermented in wood, it gives a richer and deeper complexity to the finished wine. We also use whole clusters in fermentation when the vintage ripens the fruit's stems and the flavor and intensity of the fruit is there. This adds structure and character to the wine."

From me:
This is Broadley's entry-level Pinot, but it really shines at this price point. It is both elegant and structured, a little spicy on the nose with just a hint of cedar on the palate to underscore the ripe red fruit. Organic farming practices and the use of indigenous yeast. 

Casinova di Neri Irrosso ($21.99)
Tuscany, Italy
From the producer:
"We believe that wines are the fruit of the vineyard and of man's labour.
The care and passion in working the land has to take into account the characteristics of the land, the microclimate and the variety so as to produce a unique distinct wine able to express its territory. For over forty years our evolution has been marked by careful targeted choices that have distinguished our estate and the wines we produce creating their own style.
A constant search for particular soils that exalt the quality and uniqueness of our wines and farming practices that respect the land and the vines are followed by attentive care in the making of the wine. Our wines are the fruit of exceptional combinations of soils and microclimates together with passionate and meticulous work enabling us to obtain constant results and to enhance the distinct features of the grapes throughout the different vintages.

This wine is born from the grapes of the 'Cetine' vineyards to the south of Montalcino where our Brunello Tenuta Nuova and our Rosso di Montalcino come from. It is obtained from Sangiovese Grosso and Colorino grapes (the plants are reproductions of old varieties that we found in our oldest vineyards). We tried to produce a wine typical of our land and closely linked to it but with the style and characteristics of Casanova di Neri wines. It can be drunk at once or kept for some years giving even greater satisfaction.

Vinification: selection table for bunches, de-stemming, selection table for individual grapes. Vats filled by gravity. Fermentation without use of yeast additives and maceration in open conical vats at controlled temperatures for ¾ weeks Aged in oak barrels for around 15 months and 6 months in bottle.

Tasting notes: Intense ruby red, hints of wild cherry, violets and red fruits ample and easy to drink with excellent persistence. Serve at a temperature of 16° - 17° opening the bottle a few hours previously or decant delicately.

Accompaniments: Tuscan cold cuts, pasta with tomato sauce, roast white meats."

From me:
Brunello di Montalcino is considered one of the top Italian wines, but even a "bargain" bottle will cost you upwards of $30. This is in part because the production area allowed is small, and because Brunellos must comply with a longer aging requirement. The other two Montalicino wines produced from Sangiovese demand less aging (Rosso di Montalcino) or can be both younger and blended with other grapes (Sant'Antimo). Irrosso is a fine example of the latter, though it has quite a bit of barrel age on it. This one is a very good alternative to higher priced wine from the area, and it still gives you an idea of the style and terroir of Montalcino.

Li Veli "Orion" Primitivo ($14.99)
Puglia, Italy
From the producer:
"This variety owes its name to its precocity in the growth cycle and therefore to the average harvesting period. It is considered a high-quality variety. Almost certainly it originated from the Austro-Hungarian Empire and was subsequently exported to California. Recent DNA studies have shown it is related to Zinfandel (or Crjenak Kastelianski).

Dense ruby red with a purplish rim, it is immediately intense on the nose with marked aromas of ripe and fleshy red fruits, notably cherries followed by spicy notes of cinnamon and nutmeg; in the mouth it is full, powerful, smooth and very long, with a well defined acid streak which makes it fresh and pleasing."

From me:
This brand is new to the shop, and Zin and Cab lovers should rejoice! Full bodied, dark and rich with a lasting finish, this can be enjoyed on its own or with a hearty meal.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (8.30.19)

9/4/2019

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​Domaine de la Fruitiere Folle Blanche ($14.99)
Nantes
From the producer:
Famille Lieubeau farms over 40 hectares of vines and produces both Muscadet Sèvre et Maine and Vin de Pays from grapes such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Regardless of the varietal, the vines are planted on rock, and in most cases, sheer cliffs of rock through which the roots have to bury for meters for any hydric source. The vines, and the wines, are fed by water that is awash in wet rock. It’s not a big shock that the wines smell and taste more like rock and minerals than fruit or flowers. Combine this with the cold Atlantic breezes and you’ve got an amazing cool climate, high cut, precise bottle of white wine.

The Lieubeau family takes great care to vinify the wines according to exposition, density of granite, and harvest date. Farming for their Folle Blanche, Chardonnay and Sauvignon is certified by Terra Vitis and all of their Melon is now certified organic by Agriculture Biologique. They keep yields as low as possible to produce wines that express the varietal character and terroir – not just acid. These are delicious, vibrant wines that are easily among the best values in the portfolio.

Folle Blanche, or Gros Plant as it is know in the Muscadet, originated in Gascony and traveled its way up the Atlantic coast of France centuries ago. High in acid and with a tendency for high yields, it has been declining in recent years but retains its own AOC - Gros Plant de Nantais. Famille Lieubeau makes a particularly tasty version from 50 year old vines near the village of Clisson."

From me:
This wine is so unusual, both because it's a little-known varietal, and because its flavor profile includes a mild saline minerality. Beyond that, there are citrus notes and a very light effervescence due to the immediate bottling after fermentation. This is one of my new favorites. 

Château de Landiras Graves 2014 ($21.99)
Bordeaux
From the producer:
"Located in the heart of Graves and built on the site of a 12th century fortress, Château de Landiras produces classic red Bordeaux of aromatic concentration and elegant structure.

Owner Michel Pélissié has a keen sense of good food and good wine given his Périgord roots. Now retired from the architecture industry, Michel is realizing his dream of reviving an old estate and making excellent wines. The vineyards are sustainably cultivated (without pesticides or additional chemicals) on predominantly white gravel soils that Graves is known for. Fermentation is conducted via small temperature-controlled cement tanks — the small vats allow for vinification of separate parcels and thus preservation of the terroirs of the château. After the assemblage is made the wines are aged in French oak barrels for 12 months.

Grape variety  : 75% Merlot 25% Cabernet Sauvignon
Aging  : 
- In French oak barrels 12 months, to complicate the aromatic palette and round the structure. 
- In tank to preserve the aromas of the fruit.

Tasting : A Grave, which will seduce you with its aromatic velvety and its olfactory power revealing shades of mocha and black cherries mixed with warm spices.
Food and wine harmony: Red meats, white meats, charcuterie platter, cooked pressed cheeses.
Aging  : 4 to 7 years"

From me:
A fine and approachable Left Bank Bordeaux that represents excellent value for money, this is drinking just about at peak, so now is the time to buy!
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Last Week's Tasting Notes (8.16.19)

8/18/2019

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Von Kisel Grüner Veltliner ($13.99)
Austria
From the distributor:
"Grüner Veltliner Von Kisel comes from two 25-30 year-old single vineyards in the villages of Halbturn and Andau, which are located between the Danube on the east and the Neusiedlersee on the west. The hand-picked and hand-sorted grapes are destemmed before crushing. The wine then rests for two months on its fine lees after a cool fermentation in stainless steel.

A green and yellow color with notes of green apple and lemon. The palate develops a little spice of white pepper and an exotic aroma of well supporting, fresh acid and round body is carried.
Aging: 7 years
Production: 15,000 bottles per year"

From me:
Grüner Veltliner mostly comes from Austria, and is a great alternative to either Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. This one is very dry with green apple on the nose and stony lemon on the palate, undercut by white floral notes. It is a zesty and refreshing wine that is perfect as an aperitif. This wine was formerly branded as Von Donabaum, so this is the new vintage of the same wine, with new packaging.

Vignoble Francois Boyer Costières de Nîmes Rosé ($13.99)
Rhône Valley, France
From the producer:
"The origins of this estate can be traced back to the 13th Century, when the Cistercian monks of the Franquevaux Abbey discovered this ideal terroir in the French countryside and proceeded to clear the forest for planting vines and olive trees.

Francois Boyer and his sister Fanny represent the 4th generation of their family to run the winery and the vineyards, continuing the family tradition of making high quality wines and growing of the legacy of this great estate.

In 2009, François began converting the 51 Ha vineyard to organic farming. They are a certified organic estate dedicated to preserving the beauty and health of this unique terroir. They also use vegan winemaking practices and minimal sulfur in producing the wines.

60% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 10% Cinsault

Clear pale pink in color with a fine nose of peach, raspberries, red currants and pomelo. Lively and full on the palate with aromas of fresh red berries.
Refreshing and expressive with a clean finish."

From me:
This wine is more complex than many of the Provençal wines that have a similar blend of grapes and light pink hue, and it has a really elegant mouthfeel with a crisp finish. Light, but with a solid flavor profile that makes this less of a porch-pounder and more of a "sipper with a light meal." But I'm not going to tell you how to live your life. Just enjoy this wine!  

Saveurs du Temps Cabernet Sauvignon ($12.99)
Nimes, France
From the producer:
"Vignerons Propriétés Associés is set on the right bank of the Rhône, a few steps from the historic site of the Pont du Gard. The vineyards are located in a triangle between the famous commune of St Hilaire d’Ozilhan at the heart of the southern slice of land bordering the Gard region and the Côtes du Rhône, then head westward towards Sommières, to the edge of the Camargue Region. VPA includes 620 Hectares spread out over the 4 communes of Saint Hilaire d’Ozilhan, Castillon du Gard, Valliguieres and Laudun. 930 Hectares of Costières land in six communes, Générac, Nimes, Saint Gilles, Milhaud, Bernis, Aubord and Beauvoisin. 1112 hectares of Oc and Coteaux du Languedoc land in Calvisson. All of these terroirs make up the vineyards and the diversity of their production.

Bold red cherries and red licorice on the nose. Flavors of black pepper and chocolate with subtle notes of baking spice and grippy tannins."

From me:
VPA is basically a collective of growers and winemakers. This Cab is one of the largest production wines at Sage, coming in at about 120,000 bottles per year. That's still tiny compared to large labels that produce by the millions. The wine is approachable and easy, and because it doesn't see any oak, the fruit is really prominent. This is a great summer red, and it can take a bit of a chill if you prefer.

Jean-Louis la Grande Réserve Côtes du Rhône ($13.99)
Rhône Valley, France
From the distributor:
"This wine is the creation of Jean Louis Canto, owner of the great Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate Domaine de la Roncière. Jean-Louis produces this “Grande Réserve” from Plan-de-Dieu, a region which now covers an area of 1,500 hectares at an altitude of 100 meters. The vines grow on a bed of red clay packed to a depth of 10 metres with a mass of smooth-rolled pebbles. Given this stony foundation, the skimpy soils yield little: some barely have enough grapes to produce one bottle of wine per vinestock. The wines are all reds, made from three of the Côtes du Rhône’s leading grape varieties: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. From this soil, they produce wines that are high in color, dense and concentrated. The nose is reminiscent of the surrounding garrigue, with scents of thyme and bay laurel.

Juicy yet structured Côtes du Rhône displaying aromas of red berries and black fruit, hints of earthy undertones and fine tannins. This wine will seduce your senses and bring a touch of elegance to hors d’œuvres, pork and roasted meats.
Grapes: 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre
Fermentation: 60% whole cluster, 40% destemmed in concrete for 18 days Aging: 12 months in concrete vats"

From me:  
This wine represents excellent value for money. Round, deep, and rich, it rolls smoothly over the palate. The balance of fruit, earth, and tannins is executed with the kind of artistry one would expect of a seasoned crafter of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is my go-to, mid-level Côtes du Rhône.

Montalbera Ruché 'Laccento' 2015 ($33.99)
Piemonte, Italy
From the producer:
"The Montalbera Winery was founded at the beginning of the 20th century in the townships of Grana, Castagnole Monferrato, and Montemagno. In the mid-1980s, the Morando family began expanding their property by purchasing land in adjacent territories and planting it with new grapevines, mainly Ruchè. Today, a continuous stretch of vineyard encircles the winery. The vineyards are planted entirely on hillsides, supplying the vines with different expositions and soils, from clay to limestone. A unique aspect that has always distinguished Montalbera in the Piedmontese winemaking landscape is that the winery sits astride two of the region’s most important winemaking zones: the Monferrato and the Langhe.

For generations, the Morando family has believed and invested in Piedmontese viticulture. For years, they have passionately dedicated themselves to the development of the native variety Ruchè.

Because of their ongoing commitment, Montalbera arises as one of the great wineries of Piedmont. The foundation of their success lies in solid, recognizable values that translate very clearly in the wines they produce. Through rigor and planning, interpretation and terroir, Montalbera consistently creates 230,000 bottles per year of extraordinary quality. Each wine is interpreted in different ways, from stainless steel to wood, from overripe to withering, in order to best showcase the multifaceted personality of each varietal.

Intense ruby in red color, with slight purple notes. Extended, aromatic nose with fruity aromas of wild berry and jam. Warm on the palate, with a pleasant and rare silkiness on the finish.
Grapes: 100% Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato
Fermentation: In Stainless Steel Tanks using 95% overripe grapes, with 12-14 days of skin contact.
Aging: At least 6 Months in the bottle
Production: 54,000 bottles per year"

From me:
I tend to struggle with wines from Piemonte--well, with anything made from Nebbiolo anyway--because the lightness of the wine and the firmness of the tannin is too much for my palate. This for sure puts me in the minority of Italian wine drinkers, most of whom adore Barolo. I have been working on this weakness, and at the same time I've been exploring other grapes, including the indigenous and lesser-known Ruchè. This wine was a revelation to me: intense color, depth of flavor without too much weight on the palate, a slight jammy cranberry note, and enough structure without being overly tannic or acidic. Just a beautiful wine from an exquisite vintage.
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Last Week's Tasting Notes

8/13/2019

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Les Vignobles de Jacques Blanquette de Limoux ($15.99)
Limoux, France
From the producer:
"Blanquette de Limoux was created in 1531 in the cellars of the Benedictine Saint Hilaire Abbey when a monk discovered that the wine that he had bottled and carefully corked formed bubbles, after a second fermentation. The first sparkling wine in the world had just been invented in this splendid abbey.

Known as BLANQUETTE for the fine white coating which forms on its leaves, the Mauzac of the Blanquette appellation is the traditional grape variety of the Limoux vineyard. It distinguishes itself by its aromas of green apple, acacia flowers and apricot with toasted nuances. This Blanquette is perfect as an aperitif or with an entrée like marinated salmon.
Grapes : 90 % Mauzac, 10% Chardonnay

We realize that protecting the landscape is very important as well as respecting the biological diversity and we always tried to minimize the treatments. For each of our vines we apply the method of reasoned agriculture by observing the vineyard every day and with the help of a professional technician we know how to use treatments only if it’s really necessary. On the other hand we choose only products that help in protecting the soil : for example we only use organic fertilizer."

From me:
I love the idea that this is the original sparkling wine in France, but that it's a fraction of the cost of Champagne. This Blanquette de Limoux is one more wine in the shop that represents my interest in indigenous varietals and in winemakers who seek to explore older styles and techniques. The wine is fresh, bright, and perfect for a summer toast.

Champagne Rene Marie Catel Blanc de Noirs ($31.99)
Champagne, France
From the importer:
"Varieties : Pinot Noir 100%
Viticulture: Sustainable
Vinification : Traditional
Aging Bottle: 24-month
Tasting notes:
Radiant nose, revealing white-fleshed fruits (apple, pear, peach white), citrus (lemon) and floral nuances. Ample in the mouth, combining generosity and subtlety. Full, fresh and crisp.
​
Coming from families who have been growing grapes in Champagne since 1710, René and Marie-Noelle Dautel started producing their own champagne in 1971. Sylvain Dautel, their son, is now in charge of the vineyard located in Loches-Sur-Ource, a small village in the heart of Côte des Bars. Sylvain is perpetuating the tradition of his ancestors, using environmental friendly practices to create the most delicate, yet intense Champagnes. Cuvée René-Marie Catel is a rare Brut Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir), aged for two years on lees before disgorgement." 

From me:
This wine is incredible value for money. It's a grower Champagne (the people who own the vineyards make the wine), it's 100% Pinot Noir, it drinks like a dream, and it's under $35. This kind of bargain is very hard to find in Champagne, and it is thanks to the source of this product: Côte des Bar in the far south of the region. This used to be considered a second-rate area of Champagne, but in the last decade it has become more prominent, and a place in which winemakers aren't afraid to think outside the box. Read Wine Folly's excellent blurb about it here. 

Domaine Octavie Touraine ($15.99)
Loire Valley, France
From the producer:
"Isabelle and Noë Rouballay represent the 5th generation since 1885, succeeding on the family farm to convey the passion for wine. The 30 hectares of vines are located on the renowned terroir of the town of Oisly: the terroir of choice for Sauvignon [Blanc]. The beautiful harmony of sands and flint clay gives wines of character, aromatic, warm and rich in matter.

Passionate, Isabelle and Noë work in respect of the environment according to the specifications of Terra Vitis.
The regular monitoring of the soil and the vine makes it possible to harvest the grapes at an optimal maturity and to express at best the typicity of the varietal. Controlled yields and careful attention to winemaking justify this constant search for optimal quality, using all the advantages of the current technique.

Appellation: TOURAINE 
Grape variety: 100% SAUVIGNON 

The specialty of Domaine Octavie. This prince of white grape varieties, gives a dry and fine white wine. The bright golden-yellow color with gold highlights opens up to an expressive nose that combines the smells of citrus with notes of white flowers and mineral nuances. The open-faced mouth offers a nice balance with a soft and fresh material and a good aromatic typicity that is revealed on white fruits (peach). This beautiful Touraine delicate and harmonious, served at 8/10 ° with asparagus, seafood, fish and goat cheeses is to drink within 3 years.

Sauvignon 2018
GOLD MEDAL at the Mondial du Sauvignon Competition 2019 
GOLD MEDAL at the Concours des Vignerons Independants 2019
SILVER MEDAL at the Concours Général Agricole 2019 
LIGER DE BRONZE at the Wine Competition of the Val de Loire 2019"

From me:
If you love Sancerre, but don't like paying $20+ for a bottle, or if you love Sauv Blanc, but you've only had it from New Zealand, this is the wine for you to try. Crisp, citrus, mineral--perfect for summer!

Jean-Marie Reverdy et Fils "La Villaudiere" Red Sancerre ($22.99)
Loire Valley, France
From the producer:
"Terroir
Planted 40 years ago, our vines are now reaching the pinnacle of their quality potential. 50% is planted in clay-limestone soil locally referred to as «Terres Blanches» and 50% in dry, stony limestone soil called «Caillotes.» Vines on all plots are disbudded and have the leaves thinned. The grapes enjoy ideal conditions for ripening in the summer. We take regular samples of grapes before the harvest to determine the optimum time for picking.

Vinification
After rigorous sorting, the grapes go directly into tank. A few days cold maceration is then carried out. The cap is kept deliberately submerged. This technique results in a light, fruity wine. The grapes are then pressed and made ready for malolactic fermentation. Following a few months’ ageing on the lees in stainless steel tanks, stabilization and clarification operations are carried out ready for bottling.

Tasting
With a strong garnet hue with crimson highlights, this wine opens with a bouquet which is a delectable blend of ripe red fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry). Supple on entry, with noticeable maturing tannins on the finish, the wine confirms the elegance of this light, fruity Sancerre on the palate.

Food matches
Food-wine matching is important. A successful pairing turns a meal into a hospitable and enjoyable occasion. Served between 12 to 14°C, this red Sancerre goes perfectly with white meat, small game or cheese."

From me:
RED Sancerre? Oui. It's Pinot Noir. It's light, elegant, completely different than what you've had from California, Oregon, or even Burgundy. This is a perfect summer red.

Mas Becha Roussillon ($19.99)
Southwest France
From the producer:
​"This cuvee is based on a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, which has gone through extended berry maceration to give it a more powerful structure. Depending on the vintage requirement, it is aged in oak barrels for 8 to 10 months. This period of maturation in barrel softens the tannins to their silky texture and makes for a richer structure. The color and its intensity are always relatively pronounced. This wine features a very deep violet red color with a few blue notes in its youth. 

The nose shows a beautiful complexity, showing its grape maturity through notes of very ripe black fruits, blueberry and blackcurrant jam, while allying the complexity obtained from its barrel aging through highlighting touches of vanilla, and elegant, lingering wood. The mouth is generous and full, and relatively well concentrated, under- lined by a touch of nerve, which raises fruity notes such as strawberries and ripe raspberries. The natural generosity from its Mediterranean origin gives a beautiful dimension and roundness in the mouth. The ageing softens its tannins, giving them a sweet dimension and making the wine explosive as well as pleasing to drink. 

Wine & food pairing : Its aromatic spontaneity and its generous mouth are a sensation to enchant your friends around a glass of wine, but its capabilities are just as able to rejoice your guests with beautiful meat cuts. I favor duck with a cherry jam, a long cooked lamb leg confit or simply a grilled T-bone. Serving temperature : 15 to 17°C

Ageing potential : Even if the pleasure this wine gives is immediate, this cuvee offers a real ageing potential. It should delight your palate for 7 to 10 years."

From me:
I was lucky to welcome Charles Perez, the winemaker, to the store last year. He is young and interested in making wines with little intervention that express the terroir of Rousillon in southern France. This wine is a blend of Syrah, Grenach, and Mourvedre, and it has a wonderful earthy balance to the dark red fruit tones. 
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    Author

    Jes Rich

    I am the owner of Sage Wine & Spirits. I have a background in English Literature, organic agriculture, horticulture, and of course, alcohol appreciation. This blog will reflect my own experiences in those fields. I will provide educational and interesting information about my products, and about trends in the industry that affect my customers. If you have any suggestions for posts, please drop a line.

    Happy Drinking!

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