Les Vignobles de Jacques Blanquette de Limoux ($15.99)
Limoux, France From the producer: "Blanquette de Limoux was created in 1531 in the cellars of the Benedictine Saint Hilaire Abbey when a monk discovered that the wine that he had bottled and carefully corked formed bubbles, after a second fermentation. The first sparkling wine in the world had just been invented in this splendid abbey. Known as BLANQUETTE for the fine white coating which forms on its leaves, the Mauzac of the Blanquette appellation is the traditional grape variety of the Limoux vineyard. It distinguishes itself by its aromas of green apple, acacia flowers and apricot with toasted nuances. This Blanquette is perfect as an aperitif or with an entrée like marinated salmon. Grapes : 90 % Mauzac, 10% Chardonnay We realize that protecting the landscape is very important as well as respecting the biological diversity and we always tried to minimize the treatments. For each of our vines we apply the method of reasoned agriculture by observing the vineyard every day and with the help of a professional technician we know how to use treatments only if it’s really necessary. On the other hand we choose only products that help in protecting the soil : for example we only use organic fertilizer." From me: I love the idea that this is the original sparkling wine in France, but that it's a fraction of the cost of Champagne. This Blanquette de Limoux is one more wine in the shop that represents my interest in indigenous varietals and in winemakers who seek to explore older styles and techniques. The wine is fresh, bright, and perfect for a New Year's toast. Champagne Rene Marie Catel Blanc de Noirs ($34.99) Champagne, France From the importer: "Varieties : Pinot Noir 100% Viticulture: Sustainable Vinification : Traditional Aging Bottle: 24-month Tasting notes: Radiant nose, revealing white-fleshed fruits (apple, pear, peach white), citrus (lemon) and floral nuances. Ample in the mouth, combining generosity and subtlety. Full, fresh and crisp. Coming from families who have been growing grapes in Champagne since 1710, René and Marie-Noelle Dautel started producing their own champagne in 1971. Sylvain Dautel, their son, is now in charge of the vineyard located in Loches-Sur-Ource, a small village in the heart of Côte des Bars. Sylvain is perpetuating the tradition of his ancestors, using environmental friendly practices to create the most delicate, yet intense Champagnes. Cuvée René-Marie Catel is a rare Brut Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir), aged for two years on lees before disgorgement." From me: This wine is incredible value for money. It's a grower Champagne (the people who own the vineyards make the wine), it's 100% Pinot Noir, it drinks like a dream, and it's under $40. This kind of bargain is very hard to find in Champagne, and it is thanks to the source of this product: Côte des Bar in the far south of the region. This used to be considered a second-rate area of Champagne, but in the last decade it has become more prominent, and a place in which winemakers aren't afraid to think outside the box. Read Wine Folly's excellent blurb about it here. Husch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($29.99) Anderson Valley, California From the producer: "Founded in 1971, Husch is the oldest winery in the picturesque Anderson Valley. The vineyards are comprised of some of the earliest varietal plantings on the valley floor. Sustainability at Husch is an ongoing process that began in the 1970s. At that time vineyard manager Al White became concerned with erosion on our hillsides and concluded that a no-till groundcover would solve the problem. That process of making improvements continues to this day. Our five goals are: 1) reduce erosion, 2) conserve resources such as water and fuel, 3) protect the natural ecosystems that border our property, 4) use organic applications whenever possible, and 5) preserve the legacy grapevines on our properties for future generations. Because these goals can be in conflict with each other we adapt our practices for each field. For example, erosion is a much bigger concern on our hillside fields. With fields closer to rivers and creeks we want to avoid chemicals - even those produced organically - that are potentially harmful to aquatic invertebrates. As a result, we have a patchwork of practices. Some of our fields are farmed organically. Most of our fields have a permanent cover crop. All of our fields are certified "Fish Friendly." And we take pride that our farming practices, as a whole, require a minimum use of diesel fuel for each acre we farm. The Anderson Valley is now world-renowned for its Pinot Noir grapes. Yet back in 1971 when Husch planted the first Pinot in the Valley many nay-sayers thought red grapes were a losing proposition for the region. Since that risky decision, history has proven that the warm days and cool nights of the region are near perfect for ripening Pinot Noir. Winemaking 2017 brought a mild moderately wet winter, coupled with a warm spring and summer. Our first pick wasn’t until September 1st and we continued hand picking each vineyard block at optimum ripeness through October 6th. Almost all of our picks were scheduled for the wee hours of the morning, when the grapes are cold and covered with a touch of dew. Each batch was fermented with 20% whole clusters in small open top fermenters. The wine was gently pressed and aged 10 months in French oak barrels. Tasting Notes Expressive and inviting, our 2017 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir is happiness in a bottle. As soon as you pull the cork, aromas of sweet cherry, currant, rose petal, and graham cracker grace your nose. On the palate the wine expresses flavors matching the aromatics and is held together with sustained richness and bright acidity with a silky texture. Lovely on its own and will pair exceptionally with meals such as coq au vin, pork tenderloin, mushroom pasta, or creamy cheeses." From me: A good friend introduced Husch to me a few years ago, and I'm thrilled to bring their Pinot Noir to the shop. Anderson Valley wines are by far my favorite from California--it's a cool climate region perfect for grapes like Gewurztraminer, Sauv Blanc, and Pinot. The winemaking style, though varying by winery, is overall much more European in approach. The wines seem more reserved and nuanced, and Husch's Pinot definitely demonstrates this. I don't often choose Pinot Noir to drink, but this is one of the few exceptions.
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de Bernard Cuvee Prestige Millesimato Prosecco ($13.99)
Veneto, Italy From the producer: "Tasting notes: very clear, pale straw-yellow tending to green, with a fine and persistent fizz. The aroma is intense, persistent and fruity, exceptionally refined, with dominant notes of ripe golden apples and banana. This medium sweet, fresh wine is pleasantly light and low in alcohol. It is also very soft and balanced with a long fruity finish. Serving recommendations: best served at a temperature of 5-7°C, pouring immediately after removing the cork. Recommended with: excellent as an aperitif. Goes well with fruits and delicate salty foods." From me: This is a bit unusual in that the producer is actually a Grappa specialist who also only makes Prosecco and no other wine. Though it has a little residual sugar, it still drinks fairly dry, and wow, does it go down easily! It's a nice example of a slightly more elegant Prosecco. Goretti Grechetto ($17.99) Umbria, Italy From the producer: "Goretti cellars have always been at the forefront of environmental protection. Every business choice is inspired by obtaining the best quality of the grapes without undergoing excessive stress neither the vine plant nor the soil. The cellars do not produce certified organic products but have always paid attention to the environmental impact that the winemaking production of companies can have, knowing that to make the difference of the products is the protection of their territories from which the vines are born and grow. Environmental sustainability is therefore intended for Goretti wineries as the best way to transfer to a new generation a company and a territory that is not impoverished and excessively exploited but still rich in natural and human resources. On 9th July 2013 the Goretti wineries received the Cifo prize “excellent footprints: sustainable agronomic techniques for a valuable viticulture”, dedicated to good environmental practices in the vineyard and in the cellar. As evidence of the continuous search for innovation in respect of the environment, the cellars continue to invest in renewable energy through a photovoltaic system and operating in the local market with 100% electric means. COLOUR light straw-yellow with faint greenish reflections BOUQUET deep and elegant with fruit notes, in particular, on the nose, are notes of pineapple, banana, yellow peach, Scotch broom flowers and almonds TASTE fresh and full flavoured. Well-balanced with lingering personality HOW TO SERVE, SERVE WITH as an aperitif, excellent with many dishes, fish and white meat." From me: This is one of Sage's growing list of wines made from an indigenous varietal. It is fresh with a little body and a distinctly fruity character. The acidity and minerality keep it lifted on the palate and the finish lingers. Sauv Blanc drinkers will especially appreciate this style of wine. Querciavalle Chianti Classico Riserva ($24.99) Tuscany, Italy From the producer: "Since the year of the wine estate establishment in 1954, the Riserva Querciavalle has always been considered as one of the most representative wine of the Losi family’s production. Appreciated also by the most demanding customers for its excellent quality, this wine represents the real authentic expression of Chianti Classico appellation. Wine making: Fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature lower than 27° for about 15-20 days, which is the average suitable time for extraction from the skin of colour, polyphenols, tannins and other typical features of Chianti Classico. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine is placed in cement-vitrified tanks for the second fermentation, until the malic acid gets totally exhausted. Only at this moment, the wine will be ready for ageing in wood Aging: 24-30 months in 53 hl Slavonian oak casks Refining: an additional rest in bottles for 3-6 months before merchandising further enhances Chianti Classico aromas and flavours. Bottles produced: 15,000 Colour: brilliant deep ruby red, tending to garnet with aging Bouquet: intense, fine and charming, recalling ripen fruit, berries and vanilla; Flavour: warm and harmonious; elegant noble tannins, dry, complex and with long-lasting finish Serving Suggestions: T-bone steak, lamb, wild boar and wild game" From me: The first time I tasted this wine, I didn't have strong feelings about it. Chianti is not my favorite, so I struggle a little with choosing which to sell in the shop. The second time I tried it, I was lucky enough to be dining with Francesco and Valeria Losi (daughter of the winemaking family and head of international sales). Over several courses we tried all of the brand's wines, and when I had the Chianti Riserva paired with food (specifically pork osso bucco), it was a revelation. It's no secret that a great pairing will bring out the best of the food and the wine, but this Chianti really demands to be enjoyed with a meal. You can appreciate it on its own, but a hearty, fatty, rich dish will really let it shine. Bodegas Bleda Pino Doncel 12 Meses ($22.99) Jumilla, Spain From the producer: "Made with a selection of Monastrell and Syrah grapes from our vineyards, this wine is aged at least twelve months in select French and American oak barrels. It has great aromatic intensity, complex on the nose and balanced on the palate. It is fruity and fresh, with mature tannins that give it volume and richness, as well as a long finish. A wine that always leaves you wanting more! Monastrell (red-wine grapes with small, tightly bunched clusters) is the variety that best adapts to the conditions in Jumilla, as it needs a warm climate to ripen properly and tolerates the lack of rain very well. It ripens very well, given the ease with which both sunlight and air can penetrate its scarce foliage. The many hours of sunlight and abrupt temperature changes, with hot summer days and cool nights plus intensely cold winters with temperatures often dropping below freezing at night, give the Monastrell grapes a high concentration of essential components, allowing us to make powerful, deeply coloured wines with great structure and aromatic complexity. Monastrell vines are not irrigated and require large swaths of land, as it is a low-yield grape that is harvested by hand in a “back-breaking” process. Monastrell, in general, doesn’t need phytosanitary treatment, as it is highly resistant to cryptogams. The dry, arid climate of the region also helps in this regard. So, we can grow the grapes organically without any of the much-feared infestations vines are prone to in damper areas. Color: deep cherry. Aroma: Sweet spice, ripe fruit. In mouth: Complex, ripe tannins, long finish." From me: If you are a California Cab or Old Vine Zin drinker, try this wine. It's big and bold, smooth on the palate, rich, and long-lasting. This wine is more elegant than others that I've had from the area, perhaps due to the addition of the Syrah, which gives it some backbone and keeps it from being a fruit bomb. Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2008 ($69.99) Tuscany, Italy From the producer: "A life and a passion devoted to agriculture …A life that has its roots in a strong and generous territory, the territory of Montalcino. …A life that the Fattoi family has always dedicated with absolute self-denial, enthusiasm and professionalism, to the production of wine and olive oil that have made Montalcino famous world-wide. Ageing: 4 years total, 2 in oak casks and tonneaux Bottle ageing: 4 months at least Average yearly production: 20.000 bottles of 0,750 lt. Grape Varieties: 100% Sangiovese Organoleptic characteristics: Colour: The wine is visibly limpid, brilliant, an intense ruby red color, with reflections of garnet. Bouquet: intense, persistent, full and ethereal, revealing the aromas of spices, forest floor, small red fruit and rich perfumed roses. The taste: The wine is elegant, harmonious, with long aromatic persistence, balanced tannins and well rounded, with a dry and persistent finish Serving Temperature: 18° C. It is advisable to uncork the bottle at least 2 — 3 hours before serving. The wine benefits from being decanted in order to aerate the wine. Serve in crystal balloon glasses. Recommended food accompaniment: Red meats, game, mushroom and truffle dishes, aged cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano and Tuscan Pecorino. An excellent wine for meditation." From me: The pricing on this wine reflects that it is a 2008 (a very good vintage for Montalcino), but at the same time, the age and quality make this a fair bargain. This wine is approachable now, but will drink well over the next five years, though I am partial to opening now and enjoying it! Elegant, soft tannins prevail, but there is enough structure here to balance the dark red fruit and mild baking spices. A subtle earthiness underlies the fruit. This is a beautiful wine. H. Blin Brut Champagne ($39.99)
Marne Valley, France From the producer: "Champagne H. BLIN embraces the Art of Champagne while remaining true to its remarkable character and style. Located in Vincelles, in the middle of the Marne Valley, Champagne H. BLIN primarily uses one of the most amazing varieties of the region: the Pinot Meunier. This variety offers a unique and surprising taste with subtle freshness and fruitiness. BLEND : 80% Pinot Meunier 20% Chardonnay VINIFICATION: Dosage 8 g/l Disgorged 3 months minimum before delivery Bottle age: 24 months minimum TASTING NOTES : Appearance : Golden straw, sparkling clear and transparent. Abundance of fine but persistent bubbles. Nose : Lively and expressive. Scents of citrus freshness and nuances of freshly baked bread. Palate : Simple and elegant. Lively aromas of ripe green apples and notes of toasty brioche. FOOD PAIRING : Daily aperitif Tomato salad Risotto with parmesan Sweet and sour pork Vanilla ice cream" From me: This Champagne is truly unique in its blend of grapes, and it drinks like a wine twice its price. The farming methods are organic, and the aim of the producer is to create a sense of terroir with their wines. This is not the approach of large producers like Veuve and Moët, which source grapes from all over the region of Champagne. The grapes for this Champagne come only from the area around the village of Vincelles. Poderi Vaiot "Franco" Arneis ($17.99) Piedmont, Italy From the producer: "In 2001 after years of learning the family secrets from their father, Franco, Daniele and Walter Casetta began forging their own path in the wine world using their father’s vision as a guide. By studying, experimenting and combining passion with innovation, they have found a unique and distinctive style. The vineyards and hills of the Roero where Poderi Vaiot is located stretch out as far as the eye can see, alternating with picturesque ravines, castles and old villages. This historic region of Piedmont straddles the provinces of Cuneo, Asti and Torino, and was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2014. The history of this area is inextricably linked to the important role played in its past by its namesake, the House of Roero, a noble family renowned as early as the XII century for its enterprise and power. The twenty-four small towns and villages which compose the region have remained almost unchanged and continue to live side-by-side, just as they did under the Roero family centuries ago. Safeguarding this historic land and environment is important to Poderi Vaiot, where winegrowing traditions have always sought to establish equilibrium between man and nature. Treatments in the vineyard are limited as much as possible and carried out with the utmost care and attention. Most of the work is done by hand to preserve the land’s natural biodiversity. Many wild herbs grow in Poderi Vaiot’s estate vineyards. They are beneficial to the ecosystem and to health, and the intention is to protect them, rediscovering their uses and properties. Fresh and delicate with fragrant chamomile and white peach on the nose. The palate follows through with flavors of lemon curd and pear balanced by vibrant acidity. Grapes: 100% Arneis Fermentation: Spontaneous fermentation with ambient yeasts in stainless steel tanks Aging: 6 months on the lees in stainless steel and 2 months in bottle Production: 30,000 bottles per year Appearance: deep straw yellow with green hues. Nose: fresh, delicate and tempting with a well-balanced fragrance of chamomile and white flesh fruit, an indelible remembrance of this kind of grape. Palate: smooth and pronounced, slightly sharp for a fresh and lingering wine. Gastronomic matching: it is excellent with the typical Piedmontese starters, cooked with white meat too. However, it also accompanies fish and first dishes, prepared with vegetable sauces, very well." From me: Arneis is the Italian white that I never knew I needed until I tasted it, and I hope that you love it as much as I do. It's both elegant and refreshing, fruity and floral. It's got enough body to make it a four-season wine. Domaine les Evigneaux Rasteau 2016 ($22.99) Southern Rhône Valley, France From the producer: "Origin: Benoit and Frederic Lavau have always been fans of Rasteau which became a cru in 2010, and they have been making it for many years. Because of their special fondness for these vineyards whose outstanding exposure they recognize and which they consider to be 'atypical,' they decided to acquire 10 ha in the appellation in 2014. their 12 plots are located in Rasteau’s most emblematic terroirs. these are ideal vineyards for their plans to create a wine capable of delivering all the complexity and power of this extraordinary AOC. Terroirs: The Syrah vines are planted in the gravel and clay soil of the Quaternary terraces of Bellerive. Located in the south of the appellation, these are sunny and early ripening, providing the vines with perfect growing conditions. The Grenaches are planted to the north in cooler soil, accentuating the variance between day and night time temperatures and thereby enhancing the colour and aromatic intensity of the varietal. the pebble and gravel soil mixed with complex clay allows constant, even drainage and water supply. 'The nose is complex and of great depth, a mixture of blackcurrant, raspberry and vanilla extract. The palate is meaty and develops its intensity and power across the entire length of the wine. The tannins are robust and well integrated, promising a spectacular result after 3 to 5 years’ cellar ageing (if you can wait that long!).'" Blend: Grenache 50% Syrah 30% Carignan 10% Mourvèdre 5% Cinsault 5% Ageing: 12 months in new 228L barrels" From me: I've never met a Southern Rhône wine that I didn't like, and if pressed I admit that the region is, globally, my favorite. Rasteau is an appellation with which I was unfamiliar, so I was eager to try this wine. The blend of grapes is typical to the larger region, but the soil and exposure lend unique traits. This Rasteau shows some boldness of flavor, but its complexity makes it compelling. It's a wine to contemplate for a bit as you taste it. You can certainly enjoy it now, but do consider buying a bottle to lay down for a couple of years. Alois Trebulanum ($34.99) Campania, Italy From the producer: "Classification: Terre del Volturno IGT Grape varietal: Casavecchia 100% Production area: Pontelatone (CE/Italy) The Casavecchia grape variety has a mysterious origin. There is an old country legend that narrates the discovery of a small grape vine in a 'casa vecchia' that means 'old house' in the township of Pontelatone. This vine survived the epidemic times of the Phylloxera and the parasite fungus of Oidio dated 1851. Casavecchia has extraordinary qualities and it is currently studied in the agricultural faculties of the University of Naples and Florence. There are also some hypothesis that see the Casavecchia as the wine Trebulanum, praised by the Latin writer Pliny in his famous Historia Naturalis (Natural History) as a wine that came from vineyards on the hills surrounding the old town of Tremula Balliensis, an area that now comprehend the townships of Pontelatone, Castel di Sasso Liberi and Formicola. The propagation started with the cut and the setting of a small branches and the provine, an ancient method that places the vine branch in the soil until it develops its own roots. To the nose and the mouth, the Casavecchia gives an evocative fruity taste than only a few other fruits can give." From me: This single vineyard indigenous red is one of the most interesting wines I've yet tasted. My tasting notes on this include the word "perfect." The current vintage is 2012, and it can easily take 5-10 years of cellaring. If you want to enjoy it now, though, expect a bold tannin propping up deep red fruit and mild forest earthiness. This, to me, exemplifies Southern Italian wine at its best. Poderi Vaiot Barbera d'Alba "Lupestre" ($19.99) Piemonte, Italy From the producer: The Piedmontese wine par excellence, it reaches its absolute peak after 2/3 years of ageing. Ageing: in apricot wood casks passed down through the generations. Colour: bright, intense ruby red with purplish highlights. Nose: delicate, ethereal, intense, expansive and persistent, featuring fruity plum, blackberry and cherry overtones, slightly spicy. Taste: full-bodied and mouth-filling, varietal acidity, nicely balanced. The taste is dry, fresh and fragrant, very long. Food pairings: particularly recommended with first courses, grilled or oven-roast red meat, and briefly/medium-matured soft cheeses." From me: This wine is new to the shop, though I've been eyeing it for a while. This is the same winery that produces the Arneis, and I think they do a spectacular job with their wines. Barbera is a little more approachable and robust than Nebbiolo, so I wanted to have this on hand for the winter. The apricot wood ageing is novel, but it does add a layer of complexity that you will not have found in other wines of the region. Montalbera Ruché 'Laccento' 2015 ($33.99) Piemonte, Italy From the producer: "The Montalbera Winery was founded at the beginning of the 20th century in the townships of Grana, Castagnole Monferrato, and Montemagno. In the mid-1980s, the Morando family began expanding their property by purchasing land in adjacent territories and planting it with new grapevines, mainly Ruchè. Today, a continuous stretch of vineyard encircles the winery. The vineyards are planted entirely on hillsides, supplying the vines with different expositions and soils, from clay to limestone. A unique aspect that has always distinguished Montalbera in the Piedmontese winemaking landscape is that the winery sits astride two of the region’s most important winemaking zones: the Monferrato and the Langhe. For generations, the Morando family has believed and invested in Piedmontese viticulture. For years, they have passionately dedicated themselves to the development of the native variety Ruchè. Because of their ongoing commitment, Montalbera arises as one of the great wineries of Piedmont. The foundation of their success lies in solid, recognizable values that translate very clearly in the wines they produce. Through rigor and planning, interpretation and terroir, Montalbera consistently creates 230,000 bottles per year of extraordinary quality. Each wine is interpreted in different ways, from stainless steel to wood, from overripe to withering, in order to best showcase the multifaceted personality of each varietal. Intense ruby in red color, with slight purple notes. Extended, aromatic nose with fruity aromas of wild berry and jam. Warm on the palate, with a pleasant and rare silkiness on the finish. Grapes: 100% Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato Fermentation: In Stainless Steel Tanks using 95% overripe grapes, with 12-14 days of skin contact. Aging: At least 6 Months in the bottle Production: 54,000 bottles per year" From me: I tend to struggle with wines from Piemonte--well, with anything made from Nebbiolo anyway--because the lightness of the wine and the firmness of the tannin is too much for my palate. This for sure puts me in the minority of Italian wine drinkers, most of whom adore Barolo. I have been working on this weakness, and at the same time I've been exploring other grapes, including the indigenous and lesser-known Ruchè. This wine was a revelation to me: intense color, depth of flavor without too much weight on the palate, a slight jammy cranberry note, and enough structure without being overly tannic or acidic. Just a beautiful wine from an exquisite vintage. Scarbolo Campo del Viotto 2015 ($43.99) Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy From the producer: "An intense deep ruby red color with pomegranate hues. Ripe notes of marasca cherries, sweet tobacco, dark chocolate and ripe wild berries. Intense on the palate, with soft sweet tannins and spiced persistent finish. Grapes: 100% Merlot Fermentation: The first whole clusters harvested are dried out for about 20 days, then the fermentation occurs in small Oak Barrels. After the fermentation, barrels are sealed and the wine remains in contact with the skins until mid December. Aging: 2 Years in small Oak barriques; then 6 Months in the bottle prior to release Production: 850 Cases" From me: Another wine from Scarbolo that flips the script. Hate Merlot? Think it's an unimpressive varietal? Try this wine. From the partial raisinating of the grapes to the long aging, this takes Merlot to the next level. Elegant and rich. This is one of the only shops in NY to have this vintage. Flor de Penalva Dao Red ($12.99)
Dao, Portugal From the producer: "Harvest: 2015 Technology: Total destemming crushing, fermentation in stainless steel vats at 28-30 ° C, aging in stainless steel vats for 1 year. Taste: Ruby color, bright appearance, clean aroma, with fruity notes, pine wood and wild flowers. In the mouth it has good freshness, body, soft tannins and pleasant finish." From me: This winery uses a cooperative of growers in order to get the best fruit, which in this case includes two varietals of Spanish origin and one that's indigenous to the local area. Tinta-Roriz (Tempranillo), Jaen (Mencia), and Alfrocheiro make up this blend that has a delicate elegance. This is not the bold Portuguese red that I've had--it is, as reflected in its name, a floral wine that is light/medium on the palate. This is a real value for the quality. De Muller Aureo Dulce Anejo 1954 ($29.99) Tarragona, Spain From the producer: "An exquisite sweet wine elaborated from the most selected vines of white Garnacha and red Garnacha and aged for long in oak barrels using the best solera method. Splendid amber colour with numerous mahogany tones. Rich, sensational, with many nuances, this sweet wine tastes very smooth, with fruity notes of prunes, raisins and figs giving us a very agreeable and warm sensation with a clear toasted aftertaste which shows us its long ageing in old oak casks. This is the perfect wine for special celebrations and for normal days, too. Ideal with dried fruits, nougats, fresh cheese, quince, foie-gras and all dessert recipes. Sublime to be drunk alone." From me: This is a fortified wine, not unlike Port, but with the flavor profile closer to an Italian Vin Santo. The solera method of aging means that as bottles come off the oldest barrel, a little wine is left and blended with some from the next-oldest barrel. What that comes down to is that there's a tiny bit of the original 1954 wine in this bottle. If you love dessert wines, if you've never had one, or if you think you won't like one, please try this. It's wonderful. Etienne Oudart Champagne--Brut Référence ($50.99) Champagne, France From the distributor: "Jacques Oudart belongs without any doubt to the upcoming stars of the Champagne area. The Oudart Family has been involved in Champagne making since the late 1950’s. They own 22 acres spread mainly over 2 regions: Vallee de la Marne and the Epernay area. This is definitively a major asset as it gives Jacques the possibility to blend all 3 grape varietals and still have the influence of all the various terroirs. Jacques Oudart is very meticulous about winemaking and insists on extending his Champagne aging in order to hit the perfect ripeness when the bottle reaches the consumer. Champagne Oudart’s trademark is to create elegant and fine wines. Most of the cuvee blend uses Chardonnay for its strength, Pinot Meunier for the fruit and Pinot Noir to add personality. Bright gold color with some note of copper. On the tasting aromas of toast, brioche and hazelnuts appear. Long aromatic persistence in the mouth." From me: This Champagne is produced sustainably with minimal chemical intervention. The production is relatively small at 25,000 bottles per year. I sometimes find Champagne to be too "yeasty" tasting, but this one strikes a nice balance with the fruit and acidity. I find that it is great value for money, and it's nice to be able to support a smaller winemaker. I would much rather drink Oudart than Moët or Veuve. Domaine du Chateau de Fleys Chablis 2015 ($25.99) Burgundy, France From the distributor: "Julien Philippon moved from the neighbouring Morvan region to Fleys in 1868 as a lumberjack . Gradually he bought land and vineyards that still today represent the majority of the Estate. Julien Philippon, on the advice of an old winemaker and general counselor in Chablis, was certainly the first to plant the rootstock 161-49 in 1936, vines still in production at the place called 'Les Monts de Milieu.' Since the Estate has been transmitted through the generations. Today the Estate cultivates about 55 acres on some of the best Chablis terroir, all around the central 'mont du milieu.' An AOP Chablis that has the depth of a 1er Cru! This Chablis comes from a 4 ac 20 year old vineyard adjacent to the 1er Cru 'Les Fourneaux.' Aged 100% in stainless tank, it stays on the lees for 10 months. The vinification gives this wine the minerality of Chablis with a complex aroma structure. This Chablis has an exceptional concentration and length in mouth, which makes it a great choice for seafood,asparagus and goat cheese. It can also just be enjoyed for what it is: a great expression of Chablis!" From me: It was HARD to rid my mind of the image of a big jug of bad California wine whenever I heard the word "Chablis." I call it wine trauma. I was finally able to accept that proper Chablis has NOTHING to do with Carlo Rossi. Even so, I put off selling one for about a year, and then Thomas introduced me to this beauty. Technically this is entry-level, but it's about as fantastic a wine as you can get outside 1er Cru, and it will, I guarantee, heal any wine wounds you might have when it comes to the name "Chablis." Clos des Cazaux Vacqueyras "Les Clefs d'Or" ($26.99) Southern Rhone From Thomas: "The Clos des Cazaux domaine was founded in 1905 by Gabriel Archimbaud. The Archimbaud and Vache families are among the oldest ones in Vacqueyras, dating back to 1635. The 98 acre estate is currently run by Jean Michel and Frederic Vache. The vines are cultivated with utmost respect to the environment. Only Bordeaux mixture (antifungal agent consisting of a solution of copper sulfate and quicklime) and sulfur are used in the phytosanitary (pertaining to the health of plant) and vineyard treatment. At all times, the vineyards are manually tended, including manual harvest. To ensure optimal quality, only the best grapes are selected during a green harvest in Summer which eliminates at least 20% of the production. Vacqueyras is also a 'cru' since 1990. The appellation rules are very similar to those of Gigondas, and thus to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, although only half the grapes in a red Vacqueyras haf to be Grenache. The rest are usually Syrah. Mourvedre, and Cinsault. Vacqueyras may be red, white, or rose, although only a miniscule proportion of its dramatically expanded vinyard total of 1,000 ha/2,500 acres is planted with white grape varieties. The Wine 50% Clairette, 30% Rousanne, 20% Grenache Blanc 10,000 bottles produced annually The juice ferments naturally and its temperature is maintained at 16 C all through fermentation. This allows to obtain a pure white wine with a lively acidity. It features flavours of fennel and white flowers. The c Clairette brings a refreshing acidity. The mouth is long and soft." From me: This wine is one that you really won't see often. Not only is the production quite limited, but in general white Vacqueyras is a rare find. In the U.S. we have finally embraced red blends, but white blends are still elusive, and that's a shame. White Rhone blends are particularly lovely, and can be enjoyed year-round. This wine is a fine example: it has a full, round mouthfeel, and is soft on the palate, but with just enough acidity to give it structure and character. This is something special. Hesperian "Anatomy No. 1" 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($34.99) Napa Valley, California From the distributor: "Anatomy No. 1 Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of fruit from select vineyards in Napa Valley and aged 18 months in a mix of 20% new French oak; 30% once- and 50% twice-used French oak. Anatomy No. 1 is a medium bodied Cabernet Sauvignon that has cedar, graphite, and pencil lead notes similar to French Bordeaux, but wrapped inside there is California ripe fruit qualities of blackberry, plum, fennel and baking spices from oak aging that emerge through over time. All of Philippe's wines are meant for contemplation and it pays off to experience them slowly. They are made to reflect the land and the influence nature has on the subtle nuances in tannin, aromatics, and flavor. The Winemaker While at Rothschild-held Château Clarke in the Médoc, Philippe Langner worked alongside Jacques Boissenot and Michel Rolland, the man responsible for some of the world’s highest-scoring and notoriously rare clarets and Cabernets. Following a season in South Africa, Philippe returned to California — he earned his degree at U.C. Davis — spending a decade as head viticulturist and winemaker at Napa’s Sullivan Winery, while simultaneously developing Hesperian. In 2010 Philippe left Sullivan, settling into Hesperian full-time at his current 14-acre plot on Atlas Peak. Philippe Langner, under his Hesperian label, makes single-vineyard (mostly), small-lot Napa Cabs from carefully chosen sites in well-regarded areas of the valley, such as Rutherford, Spring Mountain and Coombsville, in addition to Atlas Peak where he is located." From me: This is a great example of how Napa Cabs are starting to diverge from the monolithic fruit bombs that they have been. For sure there are some great wines that are big, bold, and fruity, but recently some winemakers are using a more delicate hand to craft an end product that speaks more of terroir and nuance than simple flavor profile. I think there is room for both, and I'm happy to sell this Napa Cab to show what a French influence can have over a California style. It is a lovely marriage of ripe fruit and restrained oaking that is a delight to drink. Contour Pinot Noir ($15.99)
Califonia From the producer: "Contour is a pure and genuine expression of California Pinot Noir, without the use of additional varietals. The cool climate of California’s coastline aids in the growth of superb Pinot Noir, and Contour is a representation of its outstanding growing regions. We select the best fruit from the finest appellations throughout California, providing tremendous depth, balance and quality. The wine is fresh and exuberant in the mouth, with sumptuous notes of strawberry jam, ripe black cherry, cranberry and warm gingerbread." From me: Good value for money and very drinkable, this Pinot is a blend of grapes sourced from three different appellations in California. Here terroir isn't the focus, but rather the grape itself. Great on its own or paired with vegetable dishes, salmon, light meats, and poultry. Mad River Mad Apple Brandy ($46.99) Vermont From the producer: "Mad Apple is a European-style dry apple brandy distilled from 100% Vermont apples. This aromatic brandy has fresh apple notes on the nose with oak spice and vanilla on the palate, followed by a crisp apple finish. Enjoy on its own or in classic brandy cocktails like the Jack Rose or the Sidecar." From me: This is made in a similar style to the brandy from northern France called Calvados. It's light in body and color, but has a beautiful apple nose and a strong palate. Great for cocktails. Garnish Island Gin ($25.99) West Cork, Ireland From the producer: "A deliciously elegant gin that perfectly captures the unique, exotic character of Garnish Island in Bantry Bay. Carefully chosen botanicals that capture the essence of the island are infused to release their essential oils and then slowly distilled in small batches in our pot still. Bright floral aromas of iris, rose and warming hibiscus marry beautifully with hints of rosemary and thyme. Enjoy the soft lingering glow on the finish with notes of citrus, cacao and just a hint of spice." From me: This is a botanical Gin that has some "oomph." If you like a strong flavor, ow if you like a gin to last through all four seasons, this is it. Local botanicals and a woman distiller. West Cork Distillers Glengarriff Bog Oak Cask Whiskey ($39.99) West Cork, Ireland From the producer: "West Cork Distillers’ Glengarriff Collection of Irish whiskeys are single malts aged for 4 years in sherry casks before being finished in barrels that have been charred using natural fuel sources obtained from the iconic Glengarriff Forest in Southern Ireland. Each barrel is prepared using a proprietary charring device that was hand-built by West Cork Distillers with the guidance of a local fifth-generation blacksmith. Each of these special release whiskeys delivers a unique flavor profile that embodies the innovative spirit of West Cork Distillers. Bog Oak Charred Cask: Aroma - Spice, dried leather with a sweet dried fruit undertone Taste - Intense spice, malt and cracked pepper Finish - Spice, nutmeg and long lasting malt" From me: This will be the most unusual Irish Whiskey you'll taste. There's an earthy depth to the flavor that I find really compelling, and there's more smoke than you might be used to from Ireland. I would call this the wine drinker's/Scotch lover's/cigar smoker's Irish Whiskey. Amaro dell'Etna ($34.99/ 1.0L) Sicily, Italy From the producer: "Our Amaro dell’Etna has its roots on the slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily where more than twenty-six herbs and aromatic plants grow. Its special recipe embodies the volcanic nature of Sicilian soil and even after over one hundred years still conveys an authentic and traditional taste. From its origins in 1901 to the present day our digestif has been enjoyed by lovers of good liqueurs and has been appreciated for its delicious spiced taste. Its authentic character is the result of the careful selection of unique ingredients based on a particular mixture of herbs and aromatic plants. Our Amaro dell’Etna contains no preservatives or artificial coloring agents. It has a genuinely intense flavor thanks to the infusion of herbs and natural aromas and the addition of only sugar. It excels as an after-dinner digestif or can be served as an aperitif with ice, soda and a slice of orange." From me: I found this Amaro on Instagram, and was dismayed to find that it wasn't distributed in the U.S.. As luck would have it, at the end of a product tasting with a rep, she showed me this as an afterthought, and I just about lost my mind. I had been drinking Averna Amaro in my Midnight Manhattans, and I'd started to taste other brands here and there as my palate for bitter digestivos has developed. This, though, is in its own realm. It is slightly less viscous and slightly more bitter (particularly on the finish) than Averna, but it blends really well with Bourbon or Rye. It stands out for me because I would almost rather drink this on its own than in a cocktail. The flavor profile is complex, but it's very smooth and quite refreshing. I cannot recommend this highly enough. Champagne Rene Marie Catel Blanc de Noirs ($31.99)
Champagne, France From the importer: "Varieties : Pinot Noir 100% Viticulture: Sustainable Vinification : Traditional Aging Bottle: 24-month Tasting notes: Radiant nose, revealing white-fleshed fruits (apple, pear, peach white), citrus (lemon) and floral nuances. Ample in the mouth, combining generosity and subtlety. Full, fresh and crisp. Coming from families who have been growing grapes in Champagne since 1710, René and Marie-Noelle Dautel started producing their own champagne in 1971. Sylvain Dautel, their son, is now in charge of the vineyard located in Loches-Sur-Ource, a small village in the heart of Côte des Bars. Sylvain is perpetuating the tradition of his ancestors, using environmental friendly practices to create the most delicate, yet intense Champagnes. Cuvée René-Marie Catel is a rare Brut Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir), aged for two years on lees before disgorgement." From me: This wine is incredible value for money. It's a grower Champagne (the people who own the vineyards make the wine), it's 100% Pinot Noir, it drinks like a dream, and it's under $35. This kind of bargain is very hard to find in Champagne, and it is thanks to the source of this product: Côte des Bar in the far south of the region. This used to be considered a second-rate area of Champagne, but in the last decade it has become more prominent, and a place in which winemakers aren't afraid to think outside the box. Read Wine Folly's excellent blurb about it here. Jean-Marie Reverdy et Fils "La Villaudiere" Red Sancerre ($22.99) Loire Valley, France From the producer: "Terroir Planted 40 years ago, our vines are now reaching the pinnacle of their quality potential. 50% is planted in clay-limestone soil locally referred to as «Terres Blanches» and 50% in dry, stony limestone soil called «Caillotes.» Vines on all plots are disbudded and have the leaves thinned. The grapes enjoy ideal conditions for ripening in the summer. We take regular samples of grapes before the harvest to determine the optimum time for picking. Vinification After rigorous sorting, the grapes go directly into tank. A few days cold maceration is then carried out. The cap is kept deliberately submerged. This technique results in a light, fruity wine. The grapes are then pressed and made ready for malolactic fermentation. Following a few months’ ageing on the lees in stainless steel tanks, stabilization and clarification operations are carried out ready for bottling. Tasting With a strong garnet hue with crimson highlights, this wine opens with a bouquet which is a delectable blend of ripe red fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry). Supple on entry, with noticeable maturing tannins on the finish, the wine confirms the elegance of this light, fruity Sancerre on the palate. Food matches Food-wine matching is important. A successful pairing turns a meal into a hospitable and enjoyable occasion. Served between 12 to 14°C, this red Sancerre goes perfectly with white meat, small game or cheese." From me: RED Sancerre? C'est vrai! It's Pinot Noir. It's light, elegant, completely different than what you've had from California, Oregon, or even Burgundy. This is a perfect red to pair with poultry. Château Petit Mangot Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2015 ($24.99) Bordeaux, France From the producer: "Henriette and Armand, Paulette and Jean, Chantal and Jean-Yves and Nadia... These people represent the identity of Château Petit Mangot. They are the women and men in the Decamps family who over the years have made this wine they are so proud of. The history of a wine is often the history of a family. Our history is to be found in our bottles. 'It has taken a lot of determination, stubbornness and passion to produce our special nectar, but our greatest success has been to pass on our attachment to this vineyard to our daughter. She will be at the helm of Château Petit Mangot for many years to come.' Vine-growing methods: sustainable agriculture Ageing potential (bottles laid down away from heat and light) of between 5 and 15 years depending on the vintage. 4 generations of know-how 12 hectares of vines 70,000 bottles a year 50% private customers - 40% trading houses - 10% export Appearance: Carmine red color Nose: Nose of ripe fruit. At aeration the nose becomes thinner Palate: Powerful notes of crushed strawberry. Silky attack, sticky tannins. Beautiful evolution. Long finish on ripe fruits." From me: This wine represents great value for the money. The blend is 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The tasting note above was probably more accurate upon release when the wine was a little younger. Now I would say that the tannins grip slightly less, the wine is smooth, with dark red fruit and a little earth. Really lovely and your last chance to try it. This is the end of this vintage, which was an excellent one. McPherson MWC Pinot Noir ($16.99)
Victoria, Australia From the producer: "Released for the first time in 2014, the MWC wines are made with food in mind. Soft, savoury, earthy styles with a European influence, they are a rustic style full of interesting, complex characters made for those who love great, honest wines. Best Consumed 2019 – 2029 JO’S WINEMAKING / VITICULTURE The grapes for this Pinot Noir were picked from single vineyards located in North Eastern Victoria. Crushed during the cool of night to retain their varietal character, while modern winemaking techniques were employed throughout the winemaking process. Fermentation took place in sweeping arm red fermenters, giving the wine a dense, rich colour and allowing for gentle and maximum flavour extraction. JO’S HARVEST NOTES Vintage 2017 is best described as a waiting game. The season was very long with fruit slow to ripen and although the urge just to pick it all was there, we had to bide our time until we had optimal flavours and ripeness. Once I made the decision to pick the grapes came in at an orderly pace, although increased yields due to the rain in spring made the juggling game in the winery even more challenging, with tank space at a premium. We made it through our marathon 2017 vintage and are thrilled with the exceptional quality including a number of really extraordinary parcels. JO’S WINE DESCRIPTION The aroma is enticing with intense plum, cherry and strawberry fruit with a hint of spicy oak. The fresh fruit momentum continues on the palate with vibrant plum and dark stone fruits finishing with some firm acid, beautiful tannins and integrated oak. JO’S FOOD MATCHES A great match with roast duck, rabbit and other game meats or medium intensity dishes like porcini mushroom risotto or fine cheese. From me: "Jo" is the winemaker, and she crafts a French style Pinot Noir here, with an earthiness that asks to be paired with a meal--or just some good bread and cheese! The wine is light in body, but the flavor is robust and satisfying. This wine is an excellent value. Organic farming practices. Tre Monti Campo di Mezzo Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore ($16.99) Emilia-Romagna, Italy From the producer: "Azienda Agrícola Tre Monti traces its origins back to the early 1960s with the inspiration of Sergio Navacchia and of his wife Thea, who for years was the real driving force behind the winery until her death in 1989. A turning-point came in the 1980s, the result of a revolution that began in the vineyards and carried over into the cellar. Close relationships were established with the best talent in the Italian wine world: a youthful Francesco Spagnolli in the early 1980s, followed by Vittorio Fiore, and afterwards Donato Lanati. The fruit of their expertise underpinned the steady growth of the winery, directed by Vittorio and David and with the help of their father Sergio. The heart of the winery lies in the center of the farm estate in Imola, where only estate-grown grapes are vinified. All of the vineyards are managed according to the principles of sustainable viticulture, which mandate inter-row cover-cropping and the lowest possible use of unnatural products. The winemaking operations too, watched over thoroughly by the experienced and talented Vittorio Navacchia, are animated by a philosophy of minimal intervention. Every step is carried out with full respect not only for the integrity of the fruit, but for the unique character of each growing year as well. All of this so that the final wine is the perfect expression of everything around its environment. Tre Monti became certified organic in 2014. Harvest period: Mid september, manual picking Vinification: 12-day maceration at 28° - 30° C, followed by malolactic fermentation Maturation: In stainless steel and glass-lined cement vats Average annual production: 60,000 bottles Appearance: Ruby red Bouquet: Crisp dark fruit, with hints of sweets violets Palate: Well balanced and succulently fruity, with prominent notes of wild and sour cherry Serving suggestion: Baked pasta with mushrooms or meat sauce, recipes featuring chicken livers, charcuterie" From me: I had this wine in the shop last fall/winter, and it sold very well, so here we have it again. It's from Emilia-Romagna, which sits northeast of Tuscany, on the other side of the Apennines. This is currently the only wine in the shop from that region, so I'm especially happy to welcome it back. If, like me, you find Tuscan Sangiovese a little too acidic and tannic, do try this as an alternative. Hedges Family Estate CMS Red Blend ($16.99) Columbia Valley, Washington From the producer: "Led by a passion for authenticity and a deep connection to the land they call home, the Hedges Family epitomizes the modern wine estate. A blend of rich cultural upbringings and a shared love for creating beautiful wine converge at the heart of bucolic Red Mountain, fostering a true homegrown approach to farming and viticulture. Hedges Family Estate unites past and present, evolving tradition for generations to come. Grapes come from the Columbia Valley vineyards, Wooded Island, Bacchus, Sagemoor, Weinbau and Dionysus (all part of Sagemoor Farms), and the Red Mountain Vineyards of Hedges, Bel’ Villa, Jolet, Les Gosses and Magdalena. Most of the wines were pumped over during alcoholic fermentation for 6 to 10 days while on American Oak. About 40% of the wine was racked to barrel where it completed malo-lactic fermentation and then aged for an additional 15-18 months. The other 60% completed M-L in tank, at the end of which it was racked onto French Oak and had SO2 added. About 60% French oak /40% American oak. 30% Cabernet Sauvignon 58% Merlot 12% Syrah Tasting Notes Such a fun mix of Strawberry and raspberry fruit, cocoa, earthy spices and a bit of red licorice. There is hints of dried sage, cocoa nibs and some pomegranate on the finish. The palate shines with bright acidity followed by a full and rich mid-palate showing flavors of red fruits, and rich, earthy spices. A tinge of vanilla balances out the rustic finish. This a sip and enjoy wine, it’s interesting without being complicated and is a perfect compliment to a variety of foods and situations." From me: CMS--Cab, Merlot, Syrah--is a medium-bodied wine with a robust flavor profile. The grapes that come from the Red Mountain estate are grown biodynamically, while the grapes that some from the Colombia Valley are farmed sustainably. The overall impression I get is French style, but with riper fruit, smooth, but not overly oaked, and a modest alcohol content of 13.5%. Good for drinking and good for pairing! Botanica Big Flower Merlot ($19.99) Stellenbosch, South Africa From the producer: "Botanica Wines was founded in 2009 by owner and self-taught winemaker Ginny Povall, an intrepid American who fell in love with the beautiful Cape winelands, purchased Protea Heights farm in Stellenbosch’s Devon Valley and relocated to the southern tip of Africa in 2008. Established in the late 1940s, Protea Heights was the first farm in South Africa to cultivate indigenous protea flowers commercially. Inspired by this horticultural history, it was only natural that Ginny would choose to develop her wine brands and labels with a botanical flair. On Protea Heights Farm, home of Botanica Wines, we are committed to the principles of regenerative agriculture, a next generation system of organic farming that increases soil fertility, builds biodiversity, improves soil’s water holding capacity and enhances our ecosystem to support healthy vineyards and fields. Key to this agroecological approach is no-till farming, a practice which aims to capture carbon in the soil and aboveground biomass, reversing current trends of atmospheric accumulation in an effort to slow climate change. At the same time, it offers increased yields, reduced disease pressure, greater resilience to drought and climate instability, and higher health and vitality for soils. The hand-harvested grapes were destemmed, crushed and fermented in stainless steel tanks, with pumpovers performed twice daily. The wine was gently pressed and racked to barrel for malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 11 months in 2nd, 3rd and 4th fill 300L French oak barrels. Intricate aromas and flavors of plum and dark berry fruit, with a rich, plush mouthfeel and soft, refined tannins. It’s juicy enough for solo sipping yet has enough grip to pair with a nice steak. Vegan friendly Production: 9176 bottles" From me: Over a year I taste hundreds of wines, but I don't always have a place for some that I really like, so I put them in my "Maybe +++ when I have room" file. That happened with this Merlot. I tasted it in 2018 and again this spring, and without knowing until now, I had the exact same notes on it both times: the fruit is bold and ripe, with a lovely underlying earthiness and much more tannic structure than I'd expected. It's both surprising and pleasing on the palate. I'm pleased to add this to my little collection of "unexpected Merlots." Inverroche Gin Verdant ($41.99) Western Cape, South Africa From the producer: "As the pioneers of South African craft gin, Inverroche Distillery was founded by Lorna Scott and her family. Growing from strength to strength in the local community of Still Bay in the Western Cape of Southern Africa. In just 6 years, the distillery has grown from a small home industry to a flourishing and pioneering craft distillery. A distillery that is invested in its community and producing world class gins and spirits. Infused with fynbos from the mountainous terrain of the Cape Floral Kingdom, Inverroche Gin Verdant is floral and soft with a translucent golden-green hue. Delicate aromas reminiscent of elderflower and chamomile, lead to summer blooms, a touch of spice, subtle juniper, waxy lemon rind and alluring liquorice on the palate." From me: Fynbos is the name of the shrubland vegetation in the Western Cape. It is part of the Cape Floral Kingdom, an area of rich biodiversity, and one of only 6 of its kind in the world. The richness of the botanical life there comes through in the complexity of this Gin. Very different than other botanical Gins, it's absolutely expressive of its terroir. Tres Palacios Rosé of Cabernet Franc ($10.99 + 10% off Friday)
Cholqui Valley, Chile From the producer: "The Viña Tres Palacios winery and vineyards are located in the Cholqui sector of the Maipo Valley, 16 km (10 miles) from the city of Melipilla. Cholqui is a closed valley 9 km (5.6 miles) south of the Maipo River, although it is separated from it by a chain of hills that surrounds the area to the north, east, and south. The Horcon de Piedra Mountain, one of the highest peaks in the Coastal Mountain Range, lies toward the eastern end of the valley. The western side is open to the influence of the Pacific Ocean 30 km (25 miles) away, and cooling breezes from the sea and inter-mountain circulation refresh the vineyards in the summer. Tres Palacios is the only winery in the Cholqui Valley and all of the wines are estate produced. A vibrant rosé of Cabernet Franc that is bursting with flavor. The Palacios family and winemaker Camilo Rahmer bring a zippy value from Maipo with the second vintage release of this wine." From me: I really like the balance of fruit and vegetal notes in this wine. It's not completely "savory," but you certainly know it's different from most other pink wines. It's clearly not from southern France! The unique flavor profile and the slight weight on the palate make this wine unusual, but very approachable. Particularly if you've not had Chilean rosé before, you should try this one. 10% off on Friday! Clos des Fous Pour Ma Gueule Itata Blend ($15.99) Itata Valley, Chile From the distributor: "Clos des Fous was founded in 2008 by Pedro Parra, Francois Massoc, Paco Leyton and Albert Cussen. The four friends were tired of hearing that Chilean wine was all boring, industrial, green and overripe so they set out in search of the Dark Side of the Moon. Francois and Pedro are longtime friends, akin to brothers, and both have spent much time abroad making wine and working vineyards in Europe. Pedro has a Masters degree in precision agriculture and a Ph.D. for his work with terroir, and currently consults as a terroir specialist around the globe in Argentina, Oregon, Italy, France, Spain, Georgia, Croatia and beyond working with world renowned vignerons like Jean Marc Roulot. The Clos des Fous philosophy is to produce exciting wines from grapes grown in extreme terroir with minimal intervention in the winery. They own and manage vineyards in Malleco, Guarilihue, Alto Cahapoal and Western Aconcagua, which allows them to produce a variety of wines and work with multiple iterations of Pinot Noir, Cinsault, País, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Riesling at their winery in Cauquenes, Maule. This is one of Chile’s most innovative, inspiring and authentic wineries, producing some of the most exciting wines in South America. 76% Cinsault, 16% Pais, 8% Carignan. Sourced from multiple small vineyards from vines that average 65 years of age, grown in granite soils. Farmed lutte raisonée. After a 10-day cold soak, the wine was made in concrete; aged on the lees for 12 months and bottled lightly filtered." From me: This wine is one of the ones that I was most excited to get in the store. I think it's fantastic value, but more than that, I think it's a beautiful, rustic expression of Chilean winemaking. There is bright red fruit, a darker undertone, and a balance of earthiness. "Lutte raisonée" is a French term that describes a method of farming that eschews chemical intervention in the vineyards, except when absolutely necessary, and encourages bio-diversity and the use of cover crops and natural fertilizer. Paul Mas Estate Single Vineyard Carignan ($12.99)
Languedoc, France From the producer: "Jean-Claude Mas, independent winemaker, fourth generation grape grower, first generation winemaker and owner of Domaines Paul Mas, is a leader in fine winemaking in the Languedoc region of the South of France. Since taking the helm of the family winery in 2000, he has prioritized sourcing the highest quality grapes from twelve privately owned estates and premier growers in the Languedoc to make wines of authenticity and refinement. The result is a collection of magnificently charming wines that burst forward with the warmth and stunning beauty of the Languedoc. Named after the original Mas family home, Château Paul Mas and Paul Mas Estate wines showcase the terroir, complexity and style of Languedoc estate superior winemaking. VARIETAL COMPOSITION 100% Carignan WINEMAKING & VINTAGE NOTES Located on the hillsides of the Hérault overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the Savignac vineyard is the ideal growing location for Carignan grapes. These mature vines, some over 50 years old, have reached a perfect natural balance. TASTING NOTES Intense deep purple color with ruby red tints. At first you smell spices and blackberry on the nose, the second nose develops underwood and cocoa aromas finishing on toasted oak notes. Full bodied rich and mellow with velvety tannins. Complex flavors on the middle palate, licorice flavors on the finish. Long lasting. Best served at 63°F. Will go well with meat pies, game and grilled red meat, beef stews, medium flavored and hard cheeses." From me: Paul Mas is a prolific wine producer, and some of their offerings are bigger production than I ordinarily prefer for this store. On the other hand, despite the size of the operation, the quality is high and the value is excellent. This wine is one of the smaller lots, and is meant to express terroir and to demonstrate the skill of the winemaker. Carignan is, historically, a blending grape that originated in Spain, and came to France through the Algerian wine market. Now it's found around the Mediterranean and in California, but it's still rare to see a varietal wine made from it. This particular example is well blended between juice that's been aged in oak and steel, and the result is a smooth wine with a bold flavor. Broadside Margarita Vineyard Merlot ($15.99) Paso Robles, California From the producer: "Broadside produces wines focused on purity and true varietal expression. We favor balance and simplicity, giving consumers a window to the promise of the central coast and varietal character.. Our winemaking employs a natural approach in that our wines are minimally handled to best express the grape, site and vintage. We harvest at lower sugars and use little to no new oak to create wines of balance and finesse that make sense on the dinner table. Vineyard Sourcing: Sourced from sustainably farmed, SIP [Sustainability in Practice] certified vineyards in San Luis Obispo County (Margarita Vineyard within the Santa Margarita Ranch AVA) Winemaker Notes: A wet winter helped fill up reservoirs and bring new life to cover crops, then to the vines. Even temperatures throughout the growing season wrapped up in an earlier than average harvest. Maturation: 14 months in French Oak Tasting Notes: Vivid ruby. Cherry, cassis and succulent herbs on the fragrant nose, joined by a slowly building tobacco nuance. Plush and supple in texture, showing good depth to the lively bitter cherry and black currant flavors. A smoky note appears on the finish with velvety tannins and lingering dark berry character." From me: This is a big wine with bold flavor, but not made without care for the expression of the grape. Merlot is emerging from a couple of decades of perceived disfavor, and this is a nice example of why you shouldn't dismiss the grape. The winemaker's hand tends toward low intervention and elegant strength in the wine. Furthermore, the winery is dedicated to sustainable practices from vine to bottle, and their co-founder and vineyard manager, Stephanie Terrizzi, is active in the push toward "bio-organic viticulture" in the area. I'm very pleased to add this to the shop. Vignoble Francois Boyer Costières de Nîmes Rosé ($13.99)
Rhône Valley, France From the producer: "The origins of this estate can be traced back to the 13th Century, when the Cistercian monks of the Franquevaux Abbey discovered this ideal terroir in the French countryside and proceeded to clear the forest for planting vines and olive trees. Francois Boyer and his sister Fanny represent the 4th generation of their family to run the winery and the vineyards, continuing the family tradition of making high quality wines and growing of the legacy of this great estate. In 2009, François began converting the 51 Ha vineyard to organic farming. They are a certified organic estate dedicated to preserving the beauty and health of this unique terroir. They also use vegan winemaking practices and minimal sulfur in producing the wines. 60% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 10% Cinsault Clear pale pink in color with a fine nose of peach, raspberries, red currants and pomelo. Lively and full on the palate with aromas of fresh red berries. Refreshing and expressive with a clean finish." From me: This wine is more complex than many of the Provençal wines that have a similar blend of grapes and light pink hue, and it has a really elegant mouthfeel with a crisp finish. Light, but with a solid flavor profile that makes this less of a porch-pounder and more of a "sipper with a light meal." It straddles the seasons, so enjoy it through the fall and into the holidays. Poderi Vaiot "Franco" Arneis ($17.99) Piedmont, Italy From the producer: "In 2001 after years of learning the family secrets from their father, Franco, Daniele and Walter Casetta began forging their own path in the wine world using their father’s vision as a guide. By studying, experimenting and combining passion with innovation, they have found a unique and distinctive style. The vineyards and hills of the Roero where Poderi Vaiot is located stretch out as far as the eye can see, alternating with picturesque ravines, castles and old villages. This historic region of Piedmont straddles the provinces of Cuneo, Asti and Torino, and was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2014. The history of this area is inextricably linked to the important role played in its past by its namesake, the House of Roero, a noble family renowned as early as the XII century for its enterprise and power. The twenty-four small towns and villages which compose the region have remained almost unchanged and continue to live side-by-side, just as they did under the Roero family centuries ago. Safeguarding this historic land and environment is important to Poderi Vaiot, where winegrowing traditions have always sought to establish equilibrium between man and nature. Treatments in the vineyard are limited as much as possible and carried out with the utmost care and attention. Most of the work is done by hand to preserve the land’s natural biodiversity. Many wild herbs grow in Poderi Vaiot’s estate vineyards. They are beneficial to the ecosystem and to health, and the intention is to protect them, rediscovering their uses and properties. Fresh and delicate with fragrant chamomile and white peach on the nose. The palate follows through with flavors of lemon curd and pear balanced by vibrant acidity. Grapes: 100% Arneis Fermentation: Spontaneous fermentation with ambient yeasts in stainless steel tanks Aging: 6 months on the lees in stainless steel and 2 months in bottle Production: 30,000 bottles per year Appearance: deep straw yellow with green hues. Nose: fresh, delicate and tempting with a well-balanced fragrance of chamomile and white flesh fruit, an indelible remembrance of this kind of grape. Palate: smooth and pronounced, slightly sharp for a fresh and lingering wine. Gastronomic matching: it is excellent with the typical Piedmontese starters, cooked with white meat too. However, it also accompanies fish and first dishes, prepared with vegetable sauces, very well." From me: Arneis is the Italian white that i never knew I needed until I tasted it. This is one of several indigenous wines that I introduced to the store this season, and I hope that you love it as much as I do. It's both elegant and refreshing, fruity and floral. Jean-Louis la Grande Réserve Côtes du Rhône ($13.99) Rhône Valley, France From the distributor: "This wine is the creation of Jean Louis Canto, owner of the great Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate Domaine de la Roncière. Jean-Louis produces this “Grande Réserve” from Plan-de-Dieu, a region which now covers an area of 1,500 hectares at an altitude of 100 meters. The vines grow on a bed of red clay packed to a depth of 10 metres with a mass of smooth-rolled pebbles. Given this stony foundation, the skimpy soils yield little: some barely have enough grapes to produce one bottle of wine per vinestock. The wines are all reds, made from three of the Côtes du Rhône’s leading grape varieties: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. From this soil, they produce wines that are high in color, dense and concentrated. The nose is reminiscent of the surrounding garrigue, with scents of thyme and bay laurel. Juicy yet structured Côtes du Rhône displaying aromas of red berries and black fruit, hints of earthy undertones and fine tannins. This wine will seduce your senses and bring a touch of elegance to hors d’œuvres, pork and roasted meats. Grapes: 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre Fermentation: 60% whole cluster, 40% destemmed in concrete for 18 days Aging: 12 months in concrete vats" From me: This wine represents excellent value for money. Round, deep, and rich, it rolls smoothly over the palate. The balance of fruit, earth, and tannins is executed with the kind of artistry one would expect of a seasoned crafter of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is my go-to, mid-level Côtes du Rhône. Tenute Rubino Salento Rosso Oltreme Susumaniello ($16.99) Puglia, Italy From the producer: "Susumaniello, the most typical variety of the Brindisi area, in purity. It matures only in stainless steel vats allowing the primary flavours to fully express themselves. It enchants with simplicity through its fruity and spicy flavours. Colour: Intense ruby red with purple tinges. Bouquet: Fragrant fresh notes of red fruit: cherries, pomegranate, raspberries and mature plums. Taste: Sapid, mineral and round, with pleasantly soft tannins. Characteristics: A balanced and velvety wine, with an elegant texture; its harmony and persistence are truly enchanting. Its varietal notes stand out clearly. Food matches: It goes well with savoury dishes such as stuffed aubergines and peppers, orecchiette with tomato sauce, risotto with porcini mushrooms. It pairs well with cold cuts, semi-cured cheeses and grilled meats." From me: As many of you already know, this is one of my favorite wines in the shop. Southern Italian wines are really up my alley; I love the full body, the rusticity, the ripeness, the earthiness, and the boldness. Susumaniello has become one of my favorite grapes, and I love that it is indigenous to the area where this wine is made. This is a must-try. Tenute Rubino Torre Testa Susumaniello ($47.99) Puglia, Italy From the producer: "Susumaniello is the grape variety which best identifies Tenute Rubino. Black grape variety of Dalmatian origin, it is named after its abundant production in the early years. This important productivity strongly decreases harvest by harvest, down to an average of less than one kilo per plant. This is why Susumaniello was slowly abandoned by the local vintners, since the main productive philosophy was to maximise the total production. Tenute Rubino grows Susumaniello in the Jaddico estate. The vines are the outcome of an accurate selection made on a wide collection of very old plants (75 years old) espalier-trained. The limestone terrain of the estate contains a large amount of sand which allows vigorous root growth. The project kicks off in the year 2000 with the appearance on the market of Torre Testa, the first Susumaniello in purity. A red wine that remains to this day the emblem of Tenute Rubino. Just few years after its birth, Torre Testa is already considered one of the pearls of Apulian oenology. CLASSIFICATION Red · IGT Salento GRAPE VARIETY Susumaniello ALCOHOL LEVEL 15,5% vol. ALTITUDE OF VINEYARDS Sea level SOIL CHARACTERISTICS Sandy HARVEST Manual, first [week] of October, with subsequent drying for 2-3 weeks. MACERATION 16 days at controlled temperature MALOLACTIC FERMENTATION Totally carried out AGEING 5-6 months in steel tanks; minimum 12 months in French oak barrique; 12 months in the bottle PRODUCTION VINTAGE 12.000 bottles COLOUR Dark garnet red with violet reflections BOUQUET Clear, elegant, ethereal and complex notes of black cherries and plums in brandy, blackcurrant and blackberry jam, hints of chocolate, juniper, nutmeg, liquorice, cinnamon and ink. TASTE Classy and harmonious, intense with a long finish, the result of strong and fragrant fruit, powerful acidity and incomparable fine tannins, noble and defined. CHARACTERISTICS It’s a real gift from Puglia, a rare and precious wine, a milestone of the Italian oenology, firm and gentle, aristocratic and generous. FOOD MATCHES It needs structured dishes such as pappardelle with meat sauce, grilled or roasted meat. Very good the match with seasoned cheeses such as Canestrato Pugliese DOP." From me: I've had my eye on this wine for two years, and just decided to introduce it to the shop. Oltreme has done so well, and so many customers have now experienced Susumaniello, that I thought it was time to take you to the next level. This is it. This represents an ideal of southern Italian winemaking, and a commitment to honoring the traditions of viticulture in Salento. This is also an excellent example of how an IGT wine can compare to a DOCG one in terms of quality. You must try this wine! |
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